CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Well to make things easier on you, we don't really have an ETA on our own RCE plates. Just having major supply issues, so go with the Raceseng tops. The HVTs are good as well.

- Andy

When I am financially ready to purchase plates, I'll message you just to see if by any chance things have changed regarding your RCE plates.

[juliog]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It stabilizes the car; zero toe will result in a car that wants to follow all the cracks and grooves in the road.

^ This. After zeroing out my toe, I no longer (dare to) drive on the freeway with only one hand on my steering wheel. Car can feel loose when going over over the lines where old and newer pavement meet.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by juliog

^ This. After zeroing out my toe, I no longer (dare to) drive on the freeway with only one hand on my steering wheel. Car can feel loose when going over over the lines where old and newer pavement meet.

You need to relax your grip :p

[chadori]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It stabilizes the car; zero toe will result in a car that wants to follow all the cracks and grooves in the road. It also stabilizes the car under hard cornering/power, but at the (minimal) cost of ultimate grip.

A track aligned car on the street my get some camber wear, and feel slightly skittish, but nothing unmanageable if you're doing one track day every 2 months, and are always holding on the steering wheel.

Seriously, some people drive without hands on the steering wheel...



That's very possible, depending on the alignment, and how it affects contact patch.

Also, if you get square tires, you have the ability to rotate the tires for maximum life and even wear.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Assuming we're talking the same tire compound, I'd take the car with the narrower tire and great alignment.

Yes go square with wheel and tire width.

- Andy

So all in all get same width wheels and tires. Is that what is meant by "square"? Let's say that one were to get 17x9's for the sake of running a wider tire and potential for more contact patch.

Now, I'm assuming the amount of contact has to do with the alignment? (correct me if i'm wrong), thus theoretically, a 17x9 on 245's can do better than the 17x8's on 225's, if and only if the alignment is better??

Sorry if these questions may seem redundant, the brz is my first rwd

Thanks for all the help thus far

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by chadori

So all in all get same width wheels and tires. Is that what is meant by "square"? Let's say that one were to get 17x9's for the sake of running a wider tire and potential for more contact patch.

Now, I'm assuming the amount of contact has to do with the alignment? (correct me if i'm wrong), thus theoretically, a 17x9 on 245's can do better than the 17x8's on 225's, if and only if the alignment is better??

Sorry if these questions may seem redundant, the brz is my first rwd

Thanks for all the help thus far

Yes, otherwise you'd be using just the outer (or inner if you have WAY too much camber) edges of your tires under cornering.

A 245 will be more stable and forgiving under cornering, and more difficult to break loose, but a 225 is generally faster (not always, but most of the time) overall.

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It stabilizes the car; zero toe will result in a car that wants to follow all the cracks and grooves in the road. It also stabilizes the car under hard cornering/power, but at the (minimal) cost of ultimate grip.

It sounds like it's kinda the same as the rear fins stabilizing an arrow or a dart - the rear fins give slight "resistance" and drag, to stabilize the front mass and forward momentum, without too much resistance.

...maybe this is an easier way to understand it.

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by normancw

...and alignment settings from @CSG Mike

Can you please share Mike's magical settings?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Can you please share Mike's magical settings?

It varies with every car... my recommendations are not generic.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I've found a complete coilover system...for just above $5K!

Nitron suspension:
http://www.nitron.co.uk/Automotive/T...gt86-12-ntr-r3

At today's exchange rate, that's just above $6K, and still inexpensive for a quality 3-way. FWIW, there are quite a few UK-based cars running Nitrons - it's common to see them in used race car listings.

[ATL BRZ]

Just ordered a set of T2's! Excited!

[buddy32]

In process of finishing up the install of the T2s! Thanks @normancw for all the help with the install questions!

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by dradernh

At today's exchange rate, that's just above $6K, and still inexpensive for a quality 3-way. FWIW, there are quite a few UK-based cars running Nitrons - it's common to see them in used race car listings.

Yes your right about the exchange rates, but I've found a place listing them for just over $5K. Although... they have none in stock. Reason they give is that they are still under development.

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I haven't heard of any coating/rust issues recently with the Teins.

I know it's biased quoting their site, but this seems pretty comprehensive:
"9. Thoroughgoing Rust-Proofing!
Upper mounts and lower brackets are coated with rich TEIN green powder paint. This powder paint has high coating film strength, is highly durable yet is low-pollution due to non-use of harmful solvent. After the shot blasting pre-treatment, the patented "2-layer/1-bake" treatment using anti-rust powder paint is applied for superior durability and high corrosion resistance. (Patent No. 4347712)

On shell case, TEIN's self-developed one-of-a-kind "ZT Coating" is applied, for tougher protection against chipping, often caused by bounced pebbles, and rust. With zero claim rate, against adhesion, out of 500,000dampers sold, we are confident that people living in snowfall area or near seashores would even be very satisfied."

I read this too about their "one of a kind coatings" and thought it was funny.

To me, and to be frank, it sounds like marketing BS.

Any company can and will say they have this or that as their special magical coating..made out of gold and diamonds, puppies and kittens, that will protect your coilovers. The only real truth is by looking at used pics from real users (for any coilover)

Just do a simple google search and you will see EVERY used Tein is very chipped, paint peeling, ugly and a bit rusting/corrosion on both the bodies/mounts and threads. Yes, I know no coilover is indestructible and others have rusting too ..but used Teins seem to appear the worst over time to be honest.

This does Not really give me any confidence in their product. I don't care how good the valving and design is.. if I have to worry that my Tein coilover will crumble like an ancient roman temple in a few years..then forget it.

Heck..even Tein admits their stuff needs touchups:
http://teinusa-blog.com/touch-ups-anyone/

*even in this touch up blog post..you can see heavy rust under the chipped paint. IDK what metal material Tein uses; but it surely doesn't look like a premium metal. Anyone know what metal material Tein uses for their lower mounts and bodies??? That rust and coilover looks like it came from an American Pickers episode lol (and I bet it was only a few years old).

At least Bilstein and KW use Stainless Steel iirc.

Anyways..nice to hear you went for the RCE's


Edit:
To be honest, I've never looked into materials used, or as a priority, much until now (I've only been concerned about performance, history, reviews, damping, etc.). But, the more I read into it, it seems like most "JDM" coilovers do not list as Stainless Steel built; and most German ones are SS. And, I think materials should be one of the top deciding factors for a DD/street coilover (since we'd prolly never change them out and they will be on the car for years to come...as opposed to true race cars that change out and rebuild parts every season/session).

So, with that being said...which JDM coilovers actually have Stainless Steel build? Or, are they all, or the majority of them, made out of galvanized steel?

It would be nice to make a list of which are galvanized and which are SS (maybe this feature, should be included in the FT86club Options List suspension-coilover description directory: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8739)

.

[CSG Mike]

@fooddude: our Teins are stainless in the front (inverted strut) and Aluminum in the rear.

You're welcome to stop by and hold them in your hands, and inspect them yourself