Cusco Power Braces on DD BRZ/FRS

[CSG David]

I suggest you work with the footwork first. The chassis is fairly rigid right now. Some of the bars don't exactly do anything, but I will say the FSB and RSB do something, just not as big of a difference as one would imagine.

We are VERY experienced in setting up the footwork on this car so don't hesitate to ask us any questions!

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by Roadliner

you have a very valid point there.
The way I see it, getting coilovers wont bring out the best without supporting bushes, camber adjustments and supporting hardware, tyres. Going FI without supporting chassis mods wont be very nice to drive too.
But bracing the chassis as far as it will feasibly go and moving to the bushes from there, followed then by coilovers and finally FI means being able to enjoy the car as a 'whole' if that makes sense? Every step along the way, the car isnt compromised by each change, rather its just getting better overall.

But as an opposing view, say you want to make your car 100% better*. A full set of chassis braces and bushings will make it about 10% better. A set of coilovers will make it about 40% better. A set of appropriate wheels and tires will make it 30% better, and upgraded brakes will make it another 20% better, for the full 100%. Why not go with the large improvements first and work your way progressively smaller? Chassis bracing should be one of the final tweaks you do to really fine tune your car for your driving style.

A full set of Cusco chassis braces, including strut bars and engine bay braces, is about $1700. I had originally been thinking of GTSpec when I said they were super expensive, but still. Will that really provide the same level of improvement as a set of KW v1's at $1500 or RCE Tarmac Zero's at $1700?

*Displayed percentages are not clinically proven and are up for debate as to individual improvement levels. Numbers were chosen purely for example purposes.

[Sprinter]

Originally Posted by blackhawkdown

Improve handling.

This is subjective.

[Roadliner]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

But as an opposing view, say you want to make your car 100% better*. A full set of chassis braces and bushings will make it about 10% better. A set of coilovers will make it about 40% better. A set of appropriate wheels and tires will make it 30% better, and upgraded brakes will make it another 20% better, for the full 100%. Why not go with the large improvements first and work your way progressively smaller? Chassis bracing should be one of the final tweaks you do to really fine tune your car for your driving style.

A full set of Cusco chassis braces, including strut bars and engine bay braces, is about $1700. I had originally been thinking of GTSpec when I said they were super expensive, but still. Will that really provide the same level of improvement as a set of KW v1's at $1500 or RCE Tarmac Zero's at $1700?

*Displayed percentages are not clinically proven and are up for debate as to individual improvement levels. Numbers were chosen purely for example purposes.

right you are. Cant argue with that logic.
however, for me the braces and mounts havent made the car only SLIGHTLY better, its made it much more into the car I want. Hard to describe in words but the car feels more impervious to unsettling bumps and more 'iron fisted', more connected to my inputs through the pedals as well as the steering wheel, running stock suspension, lightweight 17inch wheels and 215 Pilot Road 3s.
This platform is ridiculous how it can be turned into YOUR sort of driving experience.

[blackhawkdown]

Originally Posted by Roadliner

right you are. Cant argue with that logic.
however, for me the braces and mounts havent made the car only SLIGHTLY better, its made it much more into the car I want. Hard to describe in words but the car feels more impervious to unsettling bumps and more 'iron fisted', more connected to my inputs through the pedals as well as the steering wheel, running stock suspension, lightweight 17inch wheels and 215 Pilot Road 3s.
This platform is ridiculous how it can be turned into YOUR sort of driving experience.

I think you hit the points that I was trying to make. It probably is a waste of money but I think its the experience that I "Feel" will make it better and it probably will make me "Feel" better even if it only improves the chassis just a little. At the end of the day, I just want to a smile on my face after I drive the car.

[stockysnail]

Whiteline bushings will have a greater effect than Cusco chassie braces. I have all the whiteline bushings and sways and it makes a big difference. Do the braces as the very last item as they will give you the least bang for the buck. Plus if you never track the car on an actual race track I would say they are a waste of money. I'd put tires first if you want to have better cornering and speed on the road. Some RE-11, AD08, star specs, or the like will give you a dramatic increase in performance.

A good analogy of what you're thinking about doing is you're going to buy a cool looking computer case when you build a computer instead of spending your money on a faster video card. Case is last just as the braces should be.

[Sprinter]

Originally Posted by blackhawkdown

reduce chassis roll and improve handling.

I think before you go out and waste a bunch of money, you need to define this first. How do you want the handling to improve? What is your definition of improved handling?

[diss7]

Why do people comment saying they're a waste when they haven't tried them? Forums.

The trd braces....
The front lca ones I couldn't feel a difference, bit I think with full slicks you would.
The rack braces I felt a difference. More direct/stable steering under quick direction changes.
The rear subframe braces definitely made a difference. The rear frame in this car moves a bit, especially if your drifting. I found a noticeable improvement with these braces. Now that I've solid mounted the frame, the braces are pointless. But the braces on there on provided maybe 30-40% of what solid mounting did, with none of the draw backs

The rear brace I see as pointless. I can't see why it's there and what it's doing. I put it on. I don't know why.

Cost wise, are they worth it? No. The rack and rear frame ones are the only ones Id buy again. But you could just solid mount both for less money and more difference.

[mrk1]

I am a fan of braces on the car, the weight is negligible. I put more weight in my car when I get groceries. To me braces make perfect sense on street cars as public roads are usually more bumpy and crappy then a race track.

[fatoni]

Originally Posted by mrk1

I am a fan of braces on the car, the weight is negligible. I put more weight in my car when I get groceries. To me braces make perfect sense on street cars as public roads are usually more bumpy and crappy then a race track.

i think the issue isnt whether they do anything or not. its just that its so far from being cost effective that it probably shouldnt be on anyones short list. there is pretty much always a better place to put your money for both subjective and objective gains.

[Lavalover]

My AEM strut tower brace made an obvious improvement in front end dampening over road irregularities and made turn in more solid and precise. Everything else in the suspension is stock so I would say that's money well spent (~$200). I did redo the tires and wheels first, so the strut tower brace was building on that.


I do think that there are a fair number of non-functional braces being marketed for style and such. So this may be confusing matters.

[AdrianG]

The word you are looking for is "damping". I am not sure how a strut tower bar could possibly provide damping though so I could be mistaken.

Is it helping with rebound damping or compression damping? High speed impacts, or low speed impacts?
- AdrianG

[fatoni]

Dampening works as well but I think your point stands

[Lavalover]

The "damping" or "dampening" improvement was not something that I expected or had read anything about. What I think may be happening is that the transfer of shock forces to the opposite strut assembly (because of the direct strut bar connection) allows both shock absorbers to aid in damping, whereas only one shock would previously do much of the work. But what do I know.