In for the long haul Ultimate NA build thread.

[Slysdexia]

Originally Posted by Kdej1

It's perfectly reliable (when done right). It's just most people don't like to let their cars fully warm up in the morning. So depending on your internals, this could be the motors undoing..

What do you mean by 'fully warm up', exactly?

I let it run for 30 seconds to let oil get where it needs to and let the cylinder temps come up to prevent acidic condensation and subsequent wear (combustion byproducts are acidic), then drive off fairly normally. I don't put the hammer down until I'm sure oil temps are up.

[CruiseZen]

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[Panda Mao]

Originally Posted by Slysdexia

What do you mean by 'fully warm up', exactly?

I let it run for 30 seconds to let oil get where it needs to and let the cylinder temps come up to prevent acidic condensation and subsequent wear (combustion byproducts are acidic), then drive off fairly normally. I don't put the hammer down until I'm sure oil temps are up.

Ive never done this on newer cars as onlyh 1-2 mins after start up I drive off but on older cars especially in colder weather I let the car idle as much as 5-10 mins until the temp gauge needle is at normal operating temps.

idk how much it affects newer cars considering they warm up faster than older cars but I assume even in very cold weather it will take a few mins to warm up but I may also let it warm up the same way as my older cars till the gauge is at normal operating temps mainly not just cuz of oil temps in normal range but usually with older motors like cast iron they are very brittle with cold and hot changes that are instant will lead to metal cranking as for aluminum the metal expands as temps rise idk how it plays into motor longevity via "full warm up" though

[Victor Draken]

Never waited more then the garage door to open and close before driving off.
Just drive it slowly and without revving it to much for the first few miles. That's it.

[Mikem53]

Originally Posted by celek

After inspecting the Cylinders on the FA20 it appears that it has a nikasil plated bore on solid aluminum cylinders... No inner steel. But that is fine I have a fix for that.

Edit applied a Magnet to the cylinder and it stuck so must be steel there. very difficult to see with the naked eye on a oily block

According to this article here:
The fa20 has thin cast iron sleeves in the bore, as you suspected.

http://www.revvolution.com/blog/2014...amp-amp-4u-gse

[Kdej1]

It has a long term affect on the engine. I was just saying depending on what internals are used.. For example, my N/A K24 Civic had forged pistons but was still on OEM cylinder walls I would not drive the car until it was at normal running temp.
IF this car is your daily driver, or you drive this thing a lot ( 10k+ miles a year) and in stop and go, want to start the car up and drive off a few minutes later, then this is something you really should think about. Cast Hypereutectic pistons have a very very low expansion rate and thus can have a very tight piston to wall clearance, and thus very little blow by or piston rock when the engine is cold. This makes for a great every day daily driver motor.

Everyone is fast to go with shelf forged pistons because they are available and cheap. All pistons have a spec'd piston to wall clearance to have the cylinders bored to spec so that the piston has the correct skirt clearance. This is ofcourse as everyone knows, very very important. Now the part no one thinks about is at what engine temperature is this clearance? If you have your block bored at say 70deg F with a .0025" clearance, then how hot does the motor have to be to get the piston closer to .0008-.001"? on many many forged pistons this temperature is around 190-200 deg F. On most cast pistons, this temp is actually much lower around 150-160deg F. MOST cast Hypereutectic pistons also have a very tight COLD piston to wall clearance of usually less than .001". Most honda and nissan motors are around .0008" COLD and when at normal opperating temp, closer to .0006".

A cast piston will have much much less piston rock, slap, and cylinder scoring due to those effects, because of the much tighter piston to wall clearance. a Forged piston will have a lot more piston rock, slap, and so on when cold because the piston is rocking in the bore A LOT more than cast piston. This is why it is so very critical to let your engine warm up before driving or "smashing on it" most people will wait until the engine temp gauge starts rising, which is good, but you need to know how warm that is. A forged piston at 160 deg is still not "fully expanded" to its spec'd clearance as it should be. At 160-165 deg ( which many built street car setups run while cruising down the road) there is still a bit of extra piston to wall clearance which means excess piston slap and rock, which means excess piston and cylinder scoring...

For a REAL Street car I will try to choose FACTORY cast pistons anyday over a forged piston..Race car, Forged piston anyday ( unless have to use cast)

[ramiram1984]

I understand you (OP) want to go into uncharted territory with the FA20 N/A.
Please keep tabs of how much $ and time you spent.

Subd

[celek]

Custom set of pulleys cam in today

[celek]

Originally Posted by Herndon

Why the need for a new crank?

Could not machine it the way I wanted to.

[celek]

Spot the differences?

[lbroskee]

Originally Posted by celek

Spot the differences?

I think I'm stupid lol

[industrial]

Originally Posted by celek

Spot the differences?

Did you guys remove that much material?

[Gords_zenith]

Looks like the oil feed holes have bigger reliefs(if that's what you call them) cut, as well the crank throws looke like they have a larger radii between the connecting rod bearing and the side of the support? It maybe my eyes are decieving me.

[Slysdexia]

Originally Posted by celek

Spot the differences?

Much smaller rod journals. What displacement are you looking at with that?

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