How to soundproof your BRZ

[Marcoscrdo]

Do you think doing this for the trunk would remove the annoying rear vibrating noise?

[infinite012]

Rear vibrating? From the rear parcel shelf?

[l0aded]

Does anyone know where you can buy quality MLV locally? Want to do my doors but don't want to shell out for shipping a small amount of MLV.

[m.wood0213]

thank you did you happen to take any pictures of what the door loks like w/ the door panels off. im thinking of putting some dynamat in there and im curious how tricky itll be to cut to a good fit.

[ebgs500e]

Originally Posted by m.wood0213

thank you did you happen to take any pictures of what the door loks like w/ the door panels off. im thinking of putting some dynamat in there and im curious how tricky itll be to cut to a good fit.

Dynamat Is The Easy Part. If You Want To Put MLV, Then That Will Take A Bit Of Time.

[Whitigir]

Damn...74-75 db is the Lexus territory. Awesome result. Good to know, thank u

[rainmonkey]

Hi @ebgs500e
sorry to revive, but I'm looking to do this to my car this spring/summer.

Just curious, how did you decide which materials to put where? For example, why Dynamat Extreme for the doors but MLV for the front foot wells?

I'm trying to do the most obvious places first since I'm terrified of taking apart the car...

[P@ul]

Originally Posted by rainmonkey

Hi @ebgs500e
sorry to revive, but I'm looking to do this to my car this spring/summer.

Just curious, how did you decide which materials to put where? For example, why Dynamat Extreme for the doors but MLV for the front foot wells?

I'm trying to do the most obvious places first since I'm terrified of taking apart the car...

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

[Brian w/a B]

Thanks for the great post, I did almost the same thing in my trunk EXCEPT; I used a 1/4 MLV sheet and cut to fit over the spare tire and most of the trunk. I simply sandwiched this between the tire and the OEM trunk mat. I then put a weathertech floor mat over all. I have a Borla cat-back and this puts me right back at stock or better noise levels (As far as I can tell). Great mod and thanks again!

P.S. Leave area above the amp box in the upper left corner open so as not to overheat the electronics.

[bdbx18]

Ok, this is a disappointment. I bought some $200 worth of mlv, dynamat, glue e.g. and a bit of ccf. Then I took my interior apart on one of the hottest weekends in LA (100% in the garage). I dynamatted the backseat bottoms, backseat side walls, trunk and trunk cover. Then I stuck the ccf in the backseat floor and the backseat side walls. Finally, I mlv'd the floor, backseat bottom, stuck mlv on the side panels and pretty much covered the whole trunk as well as added some to hold the tool pieces to make sure they don't rattle either. That took 2 days with plenty of breaks.

Before I started, my Sound Meter app said on the worst stretch of the Southbound 504 was about 87-89 db. After the work, I thought perhaps it was quieter, road noise were more subdued. But when I checked the app this morning on the same stretch, it is basically the same with at most 1-2 dbs lower. Did I just lose my entire weekend, $200 and about 10 lbs of sweat for nothing? Admittedly, the concrete 405 does sound like a jack hammer in some cars I have had. But is it pointless to do anymore? Is expecting < 80 db to be a dream?

Disclosure:
I do not do the doors nor the front wheel wells nor the back of the backseat. I did not take the carpet out but the mlv was up about 5" up the side of the transmission hump.

[Agent 86]

Originally Posted by bdbx18

Ok, this is a disappointment. I bought some $200 worth of mlv, dynamat, glue e.g. and a bit of ccf. Then I took my interior apart on one of the hottest weekends in LA (100% in the garage). I dynamatted the backseat bottoms, backseat side walls, trunk and trunk cover. Then I stuck the ccf in the backseat floor and the backseat side walls. Finally, I mlv'd the floor, backseat bottom, stuck mlv on the side panels and pretty much covered the whole trunk as well as added some to hold the tool pieces to make sure they don't rattle either. That took 2 days with plenty of breaks.

Before I started, my Sound Meter app said on the worst stretch of the Southbound 504 was about 87-89 db. After the work, I thought perhaps it was quieter, road noise were more subdued. But when I checked the app this morning on the same stretch, it is basically the same with at most 1-2 dbs lower. Did I just lose my entire weekend, $200 and about 10 lbs of sweat for nothing? Admittedly, the concrete 405 does sound like a jack hammer in some cars I have had. But is it pointless to do anymore? Is expecting < 80 db to be a dream?

Disclosure:
I do not do the doors nor the front wheel wells nor the back of the backseat. I did not take the carpet out but the mlv was up about 5" up the side of the transmission hump.

I'm not an expert in this area, but considering the size of each door, I would think the doors would be the first place you would want to attack. The doors are long and have a large surface area situated between the front and rear wheels and positioned next to passing cars. My guess this is were the majority of the noise enters the cabin.

I ordered RAAMat BXT II and Ensolite last week. It's scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Hopefully, I will begin the installation this weekend. I plan to do the doors first. If I have the energy, I will start on the rear wheel wells, trunk and other areas.

I have a Radio Shack sound level meter, but I keep forgetting to take measurements.

[bdbx18]

Originally Posted by Agent 86

I'm not an expert in this area, but considering the size of each door, I would think the doors would be the first place you would want to attack. The doors are long and have a large surface area situated between the front and rear wheels and positioned next to passing cars. My guess this is were the majority of the noise enters the cabin.

I ordered RAAMat BXT II and Ensolite last week. It's scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Hopefully, I will begin the installation this weekend. I plan to do the doors first. If I have the energy, I will start on the rear wheel wells, trunk and other areas.

I have a Radio Shack sound level meter, but I keep forgetting to take measurements.

Idk. I'm going off on what ebgs500e stated in #7 that doing the doors didn't make an appreciable difference for him. Moreover, if I did do the doors, there's a chance I'll create more rattles if something was not secured properly or some rubber/foam/insulation was missed or misaligned.

In general driving, it seems quieter but not so on bad freeway surface.

[SamGam]

Awesome writeup thank you!

[Agent 86]

I found this website that contains a great deal of information regarding this subject. I haven't purchased any products from them, so I can't speak the quality of their products.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com