Coil Binding on Coilovers

[Propaganda]

I have a set of Fortune Auto with the radial bearings...no noise from the springs at all.

Used to have their old design and that dried out. Got the noise, added more lubricant and eventually got their newer design.

[ericmpena]

Just finished setting the preload again and wiping down all the dirt that was between the washers thinking it might help prevent the binding. The binding/pinging is still very loud and constant.

[ZionsWrath]

On my last car I had megan coils. The rears had spring bind noise. I tried coil wrap but it doesn't work properly on the linear spring. You can not wrap the bit at the top where it tapers and you can visually see the rust where the coils hit and presumably make the noise. I just gave up on it and lived with it, it only really happened on slow rough roads and speed bumps, highway was usually quiet.

Megan said they would look at it if I mailed them in but that wasn't worth the time or money IMO

[ericmpena]

Yeah, seems like most of the examples of coil binding I've found on the Internet were from Megan Coils.
I just pulled the trigger on the Fortune Auto Radial Bearing Mounts. $98 shipped. I think this is my best bet so far. It's worth a shot just giving them a try. If it doesn't fix the binding then I'm only out $100...which is fine since I didn't pay anything for the coilovers.
I just hope I can figure out how to exactly fix this so that people will know in the future.

[solidONE]

Have you checked how much clearance you have between the tires and the coils? Mine makes some mild clanking sounds when I run my 245 tires and wheels due to minor contact. Though, I run stock dampers and springs.

[KKaWing]

Sorry I missed your question but yes preload should be the same to the best of my knowledge. Oh one more video to help you out.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jSsjuefKPw"]Fortune Auto Radial Bearing Mount Installation Instructions - YouTube[/ame]

[spdbydesignchris]

I'll be honest, I've never seen this with ours....


BUT...I'm in Taiwan and am meeting with our factory for our suspension parts.


I've additionally sent the engineer this thread link, showing him your video for reference.


As soon as I hear the commentary from him, I'll report back.


Hang tight....

[ericmpena]

Originally Posted by spdbydesignchris

I'll be honest, I've never seen this with ours....which makes me think perhaps some sort of install issue.....


BUT...I'm in Taiwan and am meeting with our factory on Wednesday for our suspension parts.


I've additionally sent them the link to this thread, showing the video of your issue for reference.


As soon as I hear the commentary from the engineer that designed these coilovers, I'll report back.


Hang tight....

The original video was from someone else off of YouTube. Here's an actual video of my car. Just went out and recorded it 10 minutes ago. Sounds like an old clunker.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3jLmpI-XAM"]Coilover Spring Binding - YouTube[/ame]

[ericmpena]

I don't think it's an installation issue since I hadn't experience this issue until recently. Also, this type is issue appears to be common judging by the amount of posts I've found on the topic on various sites, as well as Fortune Auto's own website addressing the issue.

Taken from Fortune Auto's Webpage (http://www.fortune-auto.com/radialbearingmounts.htm):
"Annoying spring binding noises that sound like a "thunk" or a "twang" are a common problem for full-coilover systems on strut-based vehicles (applications that have camber plates.) This is an issue in all race coilover applications regardless of the manufacturer. These noises are a result of the mechanics of strut-based vehicles because the whole shock assembly turns with the wheel. On OEM setups there is a built-in bearing on the top hat assembly that isolates the top hat from the rest of the strut assembly. On race spec'd coilovers the spherical bearing (pillow ball hat) is not designed to handle the load. Since the spherical bearing is not designed to deal with these forces, the spring is forced to turn with the assembly and drags on the spring perches. The spring dragging on the perch does not damage the coilover assembly, but on a daily driver this "thunk" or "twang" noise can get old."

[spdbydesignchris]

Talked with our engineer:


I think the sound is from the spring, the pillowball is too tight so that the spring can't move smoothly when turning.


Please lubricate the pillowball first, normal grease would be fine, and I will give you a new pillowball under warranty if that alone does not remedy your issue.


Chris

[Propaganda]

@ericmpena you need thrust/radial bearings....

I had this issue, as previously mentioned. You can't really hear it when driving, but stopped and <5mph, you can really hear it. My old thrust bearings dried out so i got this noise... added more lubricant but it only fixed it for about a week and a half. I upgraded to FA's better design and have been happy since

[ericmpena]

Originally Posted by Propaganda

@ericmpena you need thrust/radial bearings....

I had this issue, as previously mentioned. You can't really hear it when driving, but stopped and <5mph, you can really hear it. My old thrust bearings dried out so i got this noise... added more lubricant but it only fixed it for about a week and a half. I upgraded to FA's better design and have been happy since

Already ordered. Gonna try the grease first to see if that fixes the issue, but I'm still going to install the radial bearings anyways just to be safe.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ericmpena

The original video was from someone else off of YouTube. Here's an actual video of my car. Just went out and recorded it 10 minutes ago. Sounds like an old clunker.

"boing oing oing" that's not normal... lol

[ericmpena]

So I was going to have the Radial Bearings installed today but the cheapest shop in town is claiming it's a 5 hour job to remove the front struts, disassemble the coilover, swap the Radial Bearing, and then reinstall on the car.

I know it takes 2 minutes to disassemble the strut and put on the Radial Bearing, yet they tried to make it seem like that was the most complex part of the process when I told them that you it doesn't even take 5 hours to install all 4 struts, let alone just the front 2.

So anyways, I'm considering just doing it myself. I've read through the instructions here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12864

I have a few concerns.

First, am I able to do work one side at a time? Or do I need to have the whole front end lifted up on jack stands and work on both sides together?

Also, I'm concerned with the sway bar and end links. The installation guide says,
"9. Strut assembly removal will be exactly the same on the driver’s side. You may choose to do that now or wait until you have this side back together (minus the sway bar)."
I think I remember reading that you need to have both sides of the car lifted so that there is no tension when trying to put the end link back on. Is this true?

Last concern, am I able to only lift the front wheels? Or do I need to have all 4 corners lifted? If I do only need to lift the front, is the process simply just lifting one corner, setting jack under, then repeat on the opposite side? Or is there some other way I'm supposed to get the jacks under?

Super noob questions I know, but most of the process seems pretty basic. Again, my only worries were possible issues with getting the sway bar back on, and lifting just the front of the car as opposed to all 4 corners.

Thanks!


EDIT: Step 3 says to remove the sway bar on both ends at once to release the tension, so I guess I do gotta have the entire front lifted. So, is it cool to just lift the front? Or should I be lifting all 4 corners?