Out the door Limited Price?

[GoldDust]

$32.5K with automatic, popular package 2A, and "keep it new" coverage ($700) and all that other stuff they add on.

[Annahra]

I paid $28.2K for my 2014 Limited AT, right around invoice. OTD with taxes, fees, 3 year service plan (made sense with the dealer already doing my oil changes, and a history of rock chips with my long hwy commute), and Subaru Gold Plus extended warranty (6yr/80K mi., $100 deductible) was $29.3K. Mine came with auto-dimming mirror with Homelink, chrome fender trim, rear bumper applique, and trunk mat. I think I got a good deal since MSRP without any service plans/extended warranty/taxes/dealer fees is right at $30K. They also gave me $21K for my 2013 Limited AT trade with 37K mi. and previous front end damage that was sitting in their service department with no engine (waiting for a warranty replacement).

[R3VOLUTION]

Originally Posted by hyedracyl

Got my baseline Limited Model from Evanston Subaru in Skokie, IL last Wednesday for $25572 out the door (28390 list).

Bullshit. For that to be your total cost after taxes tags fees (but before money down/trade value) they would have had to sell you the car for $23Kish, which is 5K under MSRP.

[snoflewis]

Originally Posted by R3VOLUTION

Bullshit. For that to be your total cost after taxes tags fees (but before money down/trade value) they would have had to sell you the car for $23Kish, which is 5K under MSRP.

apparently different people on these forums perceive OTD to mean different things. i was always under the impression that OTD meant everything including TTL, but i've seen a lot of people consider OTD as everything before TTL. so im assuming that this is what he meant.

regardless, he did get the car for a great price

[chu.waht]

31k out the door with the gold warranty package.

[Blastersix]

$26,700 OTD with autodim/Homelink mirror and cargo mat. Around $2K under MSRP before trade, tax, and down payment, which ended up being a wash.

[R3VOLUTION]

Originally Posted by Blastersix

$26,700 OTD with autodim/Homelink mirror and cargo mat. Around $2K under MSRP before trade, tax, and down payment, which ended up being a wash.

Washed out taxes/tag fee's and negative equity with down payment?

Let's just clarify this for everyone:

OTD: Out the door. Number after all is said and done. Total amount financed (before interest) or paid in cash.

For the purposes of fair assessment (which I assume is the purpose of this thread) it's useless to use an OTD figure because of the differences in tax rate, tag cost, amount of dealer fee, trade equity/inequity, money down, etc.


For example, someone could have bought the car at full MSRP, but had 5K trade equity, putting their "OTD" at approx 2K under MSRP so they feel they got a very good deal.

Another good one is someone paid under MSRP, but got a little less on their trade. The dealership actually valued your trade with more money, showed you less, gave the difference amount as a discount, and made full sticker on you.

Just list the price of the car that you negotiated it down to and it will be equal all around since all dealers pay the same for their cars.

[R3VOLUTION]

I don't mean to be a **** but there is such a astronomical difference in an OTD figure that it is useless to use it as a comparative tool even within one dealership, let alone across the USA and whatever other countries people post from. It's just silly.

[Annahra]

It's hard to figure without the trade sometimes, though, because you can actually get them to come up on your trade instead of off of the new car. The used car manager would only give me $20.5 for my trade but the new car guy came up to $21. So that's basically $500 off the new car. Works the other way too though, like you said. You can't really get perfect comparisons of pricing, no matter how you look at it. Have to take the numbers with a grain of salt.

[R3VOLUTION]

Originally Posted by Annahra

It's hard to figure without the trade sometimes, though, because you can actually get them to come up on your trade instead of off of the new car. The used car manager would only give me $20.5 for my trade but the new car guy came up to $21. So that's basically $500 off the new car. Works the other way too though, like you said.

No. It doesn't matter where they show it. There are two numbers for your trade. Shown value, and actual value. Actual value is the real number that they value the trade at. For example:

Sell at cost/invoice (on the car) BUT actual value on your trade is 3K more than the value they show on your paperwork. Boom, $3,000 profit. And you didn't even blink an eye. Same
is true conversely, full MSRP (bullshit there is no discount or room to discount) but give an extra $500 for your trade. They didn't have to actually give $500 more for your trade, just take $500 profit from the price of the car and flip it into your trade.

Top line will always be price of the car, the negotiated price. If it's MSRP or asking price, unless you beat their brains in for huge amounts of money on your trade in they knocked your head off.

[Annahra]

I think you are saying the same thing I said--the money is coming from the same place, but if they are coming up on your trade and taking that value out of the new car, then the price you paid for the new car doesn't show the deal you actually got. The problem is there is no absolute value on a trade, so you can't say, "I traded in XX and got YY for it, so I made(/lost) ZZ on my trade" and then add or subtract that from your new car pricing, but it does factor in. If you get screwed on your trade but get a great deal on the new car, you still get a bad deal overall. It's why it will never be apples to apples when you compare to someone else's purchase when a trade is involved.

For example, I could have taken their first offer of $20K on my trade and paid the $28.2K I negotiated on the new car. Instead, I argued up to $21K on my trade and paid $28.2K for the new car. I still paid the same for the new car, but I got a much better deal.

[R3VOLUTION]

Sort of, but also exactly to that last sentence. BUT those who get the best deals negotiate price first, trade second, rate third. All three need to be done. The best deal is the number that they will let you leave on

[R3VOLUTION]

You need to come in ( as a buyer) with:

For your trade: KBB value, NADA, plus autotrader buying certificates.

For the car you plan to buy: TrueCar price certificate, other dealership quotes.

For the loan: offers from credit unions and other banks. As long as the inquiries happen within the same 2 weeks AND YOU PURCHASE it will only have one "hit" on your credit. (Same applies when shopping for a mortgage).

[R3VOLUTION]

We as car people can be totally anal about purchasing a new car over trade value. Our cars are worth all the money, every time. Some of the hardest customers a salesman can deal with are people who are wildly unrealistic on trade value, IE. who want retail on a trade.