FRS/BRZ Manual Trans Fluid

[MillersOilsUS]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

300v in The motor is a race oil. It is NOT meant to stay in the car more than a weekend. So if you street drive your car DO NOT use this engine oil.

We had a long conversation at PRI (Motorsports industry show) this year with Motul and they have us all the explainations of their fluids etc.

Mike

To whom did you talk, Mike? Was it Garrett Andrews, by any chance? I'll shoot him an e-mail, this is very different than everything we know of Motul 300V - and it is possible they have reformulated it since we last spoke at PRI a couple fo years ago. I sell a competitor's product, but have the utmost respect for Motul, and we find it to be a good oil capable of long drain intervals (the respect between Millers and Motul is mutual). My recollection from talking to Motul is that it is supposed to be good for 3,000 race miles. Their base stocks and additive pack are similar to the Millers that we sell, and we have multiple customers running an entire season on a single fill (FWIW, we did a case study on the Millers that we sell, and over the course of a 9 race/5 weekend season with 1700 race miles, we never had to change it - http://performanceracingoils.com/PDF...case_study.pdf).


There are certain race oils that are designed to be changed every few hundred miles, such as Joe Gibbs and Valvoline (Racing, not the VR-1 stuff you find in the stores), which have very light detergent packs and therefore become acidic. Mobil 1 Racing makes prodigious use of VI improvers, which shear down, so it fails very quickly, too, but its failure mode is a loss of viscosity.


To compare the oils, the Ca levels of the detergent pack are the easiest determinant for robustness to the onset of acidity. Motul 300V, Millers CFS NT, and Amsoil Dominator levels are around 2500ppm. Joe Gibbs and Valvoline are around 650ppm. The Mobil 1 has a very high VI which cannot be attained without use of lots of VI, and it tells you to change within 500 miles.



FWIW, I'm posting here because one of our customers asked me specifically about this assertion, as it is counter to the belief he had established.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

300v in The motor is a race oil. It is NOT meant to stay in the car more than a weekend. So if you street drive your car DO NOT use this engine oil.

We had a long conversation at PRI (Motorsports industry show) this year with Motul and they have us all the explainations of their fluids etc.

Mike

My 5+ years of used oil analysis would disagree with this. Our local Motul Rep also tell us that we should be using 6100, not 300V, so I take what marketing reps at trade shows have to say with a grain of salt, particularly when my own hard evidence says otherwise.

I am not Motul sponsored, and I pay for every oil/trans/diff fluid analysis out of pocket. I also have to pay for hazardous materials shipping rates to the lab to get this done. It's not cheap.

[Griever423]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

300v in The motor is a race oil. It is NOT meant to stay in the car more than a weekend. So if you street drive your car DO NOT use this engine oil.

We had a long conversation at PRI (Motorsports industry show) this year with Motul and they have us all the explainations of their fluids etc.

Mike

This is the first I've heard of this. I had plenty of UOA's in my STi with 300v 5w30 and 10w40 and no premature wear of any kind. I'm not an expert by any means but it works for many many people and the race shop we all use here in the DFW area (Texas Track Works) exclusively uses Motul and highly recommends 300v for both race car and street car alike.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Is 300 trans fluid alright for DD and has the same longevity as standard/normal trans fluid?

Yes the Motul Gear 300 75w90 is fine for daily driven street cars at the normal 30k interval.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by MillersOilsUS

To whom did you talk, Mike? Was it Garrett Andrews, by any chance? I'll shoot him an e-mail, this is very different than everything we know of Motul 300V - and it is possible they have reformulated it since we last spoke at PRI a couple fo years ago. I sell a competitor's product, but have the utmost respect for Motul, and we find it to be a good oil capable of long drain intervals (the respect between Millers and Motul is mutual). My recollection from talking to Motul is that it is supposed to be good for 3,000 race miles. Their base stocks and additive pack are similar to the Millers that we sell, and we have multiple customers running an entire season on a single fill (FWIW, we did a case study on the Millers that we sell, and over the course of a 9 race/5 weekend season with 1700 race miles, we never had to change it - http://performanceracingoils.com/PDF...case_study.pdf).


There are certain race oils that are designed to be changed every few hundred miles, such as Joe Gibbs and Valvoline (Racing, not the VR-1 stuff you find in the stores), which have very light detergent packs and therefore become acidic. Mobil 1 Racing makes prodigious use of VI improvers, which shear down, so it fails very quickly, too, but its failure mode is a loss of viscosity.


To compare the oils, the Ca levels of the detergent pack are the easiest determinant for robustness to the onset of acidity. Motul 300V, Millers CFS NT, and Amsoil Dominator levels are around 2500ppm. Joe Gibbs and Valvoline are around 650ppm. The Mobil 1 has a very high VI which cannot be attained without use of lots of VI, and it tells you to change within 500 miles.



FWIW, I'm posting here because one of our customers asked me specifically about this assertion, as it is counter to the belief he had established.

I'm not sure of the name of the guys we were speaking with at PRI, but we were basically going over the various products and what the makeup was on them and differences. I specifically asked about the 300v Racing Motor Oil and they told us not to use it in street cars that plan to do the normal change intervals (most cars now have 5000-7500 mile intervals on them) due to the lack of cleaners additives that help them go extended drain intervals.

We keep a few cases of the 300v around but since 99% of our cars are not track-only cars, we didn't want to stock a large amount of it.

With that said, our UOA for the 8100 C3 5w30 has been excellent over the past 5+ years we've been using it on Subie motors. So much so that we use it as our base engine oil for oil changes and 30/60/90/120k services. Every 5-6 weeks we go through (2) 55 Gal Drums of the stuff.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

My 5+ years of used oil analysis would disagree with this. Our local Motul Rep also tell us that we should be using 6100, not 300V, so I take what marketing reps at trade shows have to say with a grain of salt, particularly when my own hard evidence says otherwise.

I am not Motul sponsored, and I pay for every oil/trans/diff fluid analysis out of pocket. I also have to pay for hazardous materials shipping rates to the lab to get this done. It's not cheap.

I'm assuming he meant 8100 not 6100?

I agree with you on the UOA being your best bet to know what intervals and what oils to use. For our customers, and most folks here on the boards the 8100 C3 X-Series (as opposed to the ECO series) oils will be more than adequate for their needs at a fraction of the cost of the 300V Racing fluids. We don't over-sell just because it's racing fluid.

On the shipping of hazardous material, I'm not sure why you pay extra, the USPS will ship it without an issue, as we do it all the time to Blackstone ourselves.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by Griever423

This is the first I've heard of this. I had plenty of UOA's in my STi with 300v 5w30 and 10w40 and no premature wear of any kind. I'm not an expert by any means but it works for many many people and the race shop we all use here in the DFW area (Texas Track Works) exclusively uses Motul and highly recommends 300v for both race car and street car alike.

I was surprised myself, but it does make sense to me if what they are saying is true.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

I'm assuming he meant 8100 not 6100?

I agree with you on the UOA being your best bet to know what intervals and what oils to use. For our customers, and most folks here on the boards the 8100 C3 X-Series (as opposed to the ECO series) oils will be more than adequate for their needs at a fraction of the cost of the 300V Racing fluids. We don't over-sell just because it's racing fluid.

On the shipping of hazardous material, I'm not sure why you pay extra, the USPS will ship it without an issue, as we do it all the time to Blackstone ourselves.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Dead serious, he recommend 6100 for our use.

I've had samples randomly returned to us by USPS. Maybe my local post office is more anal . Technically speaking, you're not supposed to :p

[fooddude]

What's the difference b/n 8100 and 6100?

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Dead serious, he recommend 6100 for our use.

I've had samples randomly returned to us by USPS. Maybe my local post office is more anal . Technically speaking, you're not supposed to :p

Engine Oil..

Holy man I'm running Motul Ecolite 8100 0-20 seems fine but in fact it somehow is not?? Man I hope this is wrong or I'm reading wrong..

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Engine Oil..

Holy man I'm running Motul Ecolite 8100 0-20 seems fine but in fact it somehow is not?? Man I hope this is wrong or I'm reading wrong..

The Eco-lite is perfectly compliant with what's required for our cars according to the manual.

The difference between the Eco and X-Cess is that the ECO is setup to provide better EPA milage and doesn't provide as much protection as the X-Cess. The Excess is more robust but lower milage. That was what was explained to us when we questioned the differences between the engine oils (300V, ECO, and X-Cess) Anything with "Eco" is for EPA ratings, anything with "X" is what we want as daily driven/tracked street performance cars, and 300V is for dedicated track use with shorter change interval than what is called for.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by fooddude

What's the difference b/n 8100 and 6100?

8100 is 100% synthetic
6100 is a mixture of Conventional and Synthetic

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

8100 is 100% synthetic
6100 is a mixture of Conventional and Synthetic

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Thanks...is it better than other non-race oils? Is it better than Eneos Sustina?

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Thanks...is it better than other non-race oils? Is it better than Eneos Sustina?

I wouldn't use the 6100 in our cars as they require synthetic.

As for "better" it's hard to say. We go through 55 gals of Motul 8100 X-Clean C3 5w30 every 4 weeks at our shop on Subies and all the blackstone lab reports show it does an excellent job. In the NY/NJ area we have a ton of bumper to bumper traffic and high speed highways, so our owners abuse it pretty well.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"