CEL P0351 Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit/Open

[forwallblakmail]

Originally Posted by romin

I got this code after 6 months on the track, replaced all four coils with Okadas and was good for another year. Last weekend after running hard on the track the same code popped up so I replaced the cylinder one coil again - maybe this is going to be an part of my annual maintainence along with checking my DI seals.

Did you have the EcuTek "fix" as well?

[romin]

Originally Posted by forwallblakmail

Did you have the EcuTek "fix" as well?

Yep, pulled all four injectors again and this time they were still good. So maybe I'm just down to consuming coils every year on cylinder one.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by romin

Yep, pulled all four injectors again and this time they were still good. So maybe I'm just down to consuming coils every year on cylinder one.

Is there a DIY for this? Were you able to replace the #1 coil without jacking up the engine?

P0351 last night in a WOT 2nd-3rd gear data logging pull. Cleared and could not replicate. Was idling in a parking lot for 10 minutes immediately before the pull. It's possible the coil is over heating and failing over time.

The #1 coil right above the header/OP junction. It gets pretty hot down there.

Subaru parts dept at my local dealer just gave me a part #22433AA651 for the coils

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by romin

I got this code after 6 months on the track, replaced all four coils with Okadas and was good for another year. Last weekend after running hard on the track the same code popped up so I replaced the cylinder one coil again - maybe this is going to be an part of my annual maintainence along with checking my DI seals.

Do you have an oil cooler/bigger radiator combo?

[raul]

Originally Posted by romin

I'm getting this CEL while running hard on the track.
I've cleared it several times and it keeps coming back.
Anyone else seeing it?
Any known fixes?

Your injector seals will go bad. It's a problem with the stock tune. Shifting hard from 3-4-5th gear will apparently cause knock and fry the nylon/plastic seals. I had coils 1 and 3 CELs for about 3-4 months intermittently, usually when running it hard. Eventually I had the coils replaced, and not 2 weeks after that the car started shaking pretty badly from misfire. They found it was the DI seals and replaced both. 2500 miles after the seal replacements and no issues.

These are allegedly stronger seals:

http://www.autofactory.jp/product/to...=s&pm=t&seq=34

Bring this up at your dealer when you take it in:

[romin]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Do you have an oil cooler/bigger radiator combo?

No just a Perrin oil cooler.
If I move to FI I'll upgrade the radiator.

[romin]

Originally Posted by raul

Your injector seals will go bad. It's a problem with the stock tune. Shifting hard from 3-4-5th gear will apparently cause knock and fry the nylon/plastic seals. I had coils 1 and 3 CELs for about 3-4 months intermittently, usually when running it hard. Eventually I had the coils replaced, and not 2 weeks after that the car started shaking pretty badly from misfire. They found it was the DI seals and replaced both. 2500 miles after the seal replacements and no issues.

These are allegedly stronger seals:

http://www.autofactory.jp/product/to...=s&pm=t&seq=34

Bring this up at your dealer when you take it in:

Yeah thanks, I've already been through all of this a couple times.
I've had all of my seals replaced twice on my own dime.
Last time around they held with the addition of a new tune and oil cooler.
Coils seem to be my only problem now - burning through about one a year.

[raul]

Originally Posted by romin

Yeah thanks, I've already been through all of this a couple times.
I've had all of my seals replaced twice on my own dime.
Last time around they held with the addition of a new tune and oil cooler.
Coils seem to be my only problem now - burning through about one a year.

I got mine replaced under warranty. Why did you have to replace them yourself?

[romin]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Is there a DIY for this? Were you able to replace the #1 coil without jacking up the engine?

P0351 last night in a WOT 2nd-3rd gear data logging pull. Cleared and could not replicate. Was idling in a parking lot for 10 minutes immediately before the pull. It's possible the coil is over heating and failing over time.

The #1 coil right above the header/OP junction. It gets pretty hot down there.

Subaru parts dept at my local dealer just gave me a part #22433AA651 for the coils

All of the coils can be replaced from the top by just moving the ECU.
Be careful not to drop the bolts down onto the under tray.
I did this once and it was a bitch to get out.
Stuff towels down below the heads so if you do drop one it can be easily retrieved.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by romin

All of the coils can be replaced from the top by just moving the ECU.
Be careful not to drop the bolts down onto the under tray.
I did this once and it was a bitch to get out.
Stuff towels down below the heads so if you do drop one it can be easily retrieved.

All of them or just the passenger side? The drivers side looks like there's fuel lines in the way.

[romin]

Originally Posted by raul

I got mine replaced under warranty. Why did you have to replace them yourself?

I took it to two dealers with the page you showed and other pictures as well.
They both said no such issue existed and couldn't understand why I was asking for my seals to be replaced. One of them told me if the DI seals were gone fuel would be spraying all over the place - I've never been back to a Subaru dealer since and I own both a BRZ and an STI.

I then bought all of the parts and the "special" tools, educated my own mechanic on what needed to be done and he tore it all apart. One of my seals (cylinder one) was completely burned off and the direct injector was so badly pitted that we ended up completely replacing it. I've since bought a second set of four direct injectors so he can quickly swap them once a year and I replace the seals in my spare time.

[romin]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

All of them or just the passenger side? The drivers side looks like there's fuel lines in the way.

I switched all of them once and cylinder one twice.
I remember moving a couple things on the left hand side of the engine as well but I was able to get to all of them without too much trouble.
Just be patient - don't rush.

If you're lucky enough to blow a DI seal as well remember to replace the plug on that cylinder as it will be fouled.

[ATL BRZ]

So at the track yesterday my BRZ started throwing a persistent P0351 halfway through each session, so I parked it after two sessions after clearing it each time. Now the car will throw the same code even when cruising on the highway if I go WOT in 3rd or 4th gear even briefly to let the revs climb for a few seconds. There is nothing wrong with my tune based on the data logs. I have a new revised OEM coil on the way that I plan to install myself to replace my #1 coil (passenger's side, front)

The #1 coil is just getting too hot down there by the header/op junction when tracked frequently. It seems like the #1 lasts about a year before failing.

What can be done about this to prevent failure. I'm not sure that wrapping/coating the header/op would be very effective since owners with the factory header/op with the heat sheilds included still have their coils fail. Even those with upgraded Okada coils have experienced failures presumably due to excessive heat when tracked frequently.

This tells me that we need some kind of bolt on heat shield for the coils or to have someone step in and make some coils out of more heat resistant materials.

Brainstorming session, GO!

[FT86RGV]

I'll get the same cel almost everytime I'm rounding out 3rd gear at wot. Was trying to log my car the other day and everytime po351 would pop out right when I got to ~7k rpms. I just ordered an ignition coil through the my local Subaru dealership parts department. Should be here in 5-7 days or so. Hopefully this one should last a good while. We really do need some kind of aftermarket fix for this though.


edit: also if someone would do a diy guide(with pics) on how to replace them quickly would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I can figure it out but any time saving tips and hints doesn't hurt.