Wheel fitment change when lowered?

[Triumphrider]

Hoping someone can help me out. I currently and runnning 18x9 rims with a 35 offset.
235/40/18 tires. I am on stock suspension and have no issues with any kind of rubbing etc. I am looking at installing some springs to lower the car a bit and get rid of some of the wheel gap. Not too low though as the roads around here suck . My question is when I drop an inch does my wheel clearance change? I would love to get rid of the bit of the poke I have up front... Or is that where camber comes into play? I see other cars with the same wheels but are totally flush. Thanks

[BlueDubbinTDI]

Get OEM crash bolts for the front to add camber. Get eibach pros and call it a win. Also post a couple pics of your car as is please

[Triumphrider]

I'll have to shrink down some pics late... Just out of curiosity what exactly are own crash bolts? Sorry I'm new to the car world... I'm a bike guy.

[BlueDubbinTDI]

Originally Posted by Triumphrider

I'll have to shrink down some pics late... Just out of curiosity what exactly are own crash bolts? Sorry I'm new to the car world... I'm a bike guy.

Original equipment crash bolts. They're the same at the bolts right below the ones you're replacing, just smaller diameter so there is some play when adjusting camber, which the stock bolts don't have. the parts counter guy at your dealer will know what your talking about or just Google search for the part number. I got my set in person for just over $10 from my local Subaru dealer and run 1.3 degrees up front and 2.3 in the rear on RS-R Superdown springs.

[cycleboy]

Poke around the suspension forum to learn more.

I'm at stock height too, but planning to go down 20mm on RCE Yellows.

What I've learned from my current alignment specs and what will occur when I go lower is that I may need crash bolts in front to adjust camber and LCA's in rear to adjust camber/toe.

Still more to learn for me before I decide. But, I have the springs and bolts on hand now. Deciding on whether LCA's are a must or can skip. Concerned about too much camber and/or toe.

[Triumphrider]

Here's how I'm sitting right now

[krulux]

I ordered a set of the Eibach Pro-Kit springs this past weekend... from what I've read of others that have them installed, should be right at a 1" drop.

I'll have pics up hopefully by this weekend with info... I'd probably be fine reusing the oem crash bolts - but for $10-20 why not pick up a new set.

Part of the reason I went with the Pro-kit to save spending on on new LCA's for the rear. Most of the folks that I've read using the Pro-kit said it was negligible gain (a little tilt-in is fine IMO) Just regularly rotating the tires should keep wear down to a minimum for such a small drop...

If I'd had gone with the StreetLine or Tein etc.. taking into consideration needing LCA's to properly align and the need to replace the oem shocks sooner rather than later - it would probably be best to save a little more and go with a decent coilover. /2cent

[cycleboy]

Originally Posted by krulux

I'd probably be fine reusing the oem crash bolts - but for $10-20 why not pick up a new set.

Important distinction there - when stock, your car doesn't have crash bolts. You have to get them and install. They allow camber adjustment in the front that otherwise doesn't exist.

Only reason I'm debating LCA's is that I don't want to go 20mm lower and then find I have too much toe or camber and no way to adjust it.

[djdnz]

Originally Posted by Triumphrider

Hoping someone can help me out. I currently and runnning 18x9 rims with a 35 offset.
235/40/18 tires. I am on stock suspension and have no issues with any kind of rubbing etc. I am looking at installing some springs to lower the car a bit and get rid of some of the wheel gap. Not too low though as the roads around here suck . My question is when I drop an inch does my wheel clearance change? I would love to get rid of the bit of the poke I have up front... Or is that where camber comes into play? I see other cars with the same wheels but are totally flush. Thanks

With your current rims you should be fine. It's an odd size tire so I won't guarantee anything, but I don't imagine you'll run into problems in terms of rubbing.

When you lower, you are going to introduce natural camber. You can add additional camber by adding more parts, but if you just plan on throwing some Pro-Kits on or something similar I would just keep it simple! The natural camber will tuck your wheel a bit. Expect to pull in the top approximately 5mm, maybe more. It should help with your poke, but not entirely fix it.

[Triumphrider]

Thanks for the replies....with spring hopefully coming soon I want to get the lowering situation sorted out.

[FR-S Matt]

Just to make this clear, you should be running more camber up front than in the rear. This isn't a Honda Civic. Crash bolts work great up front, and you need lower control arms or upper control arm bushings in the rear to correct camber from lowering. Otherwise you'll end up with -2.5 to -3 in the rear and a very little amount up front. This is why I run coilovers with slotted upper holes along with the crash bolts. I get all the camber I need without even needing camber plates.

[cycleboy]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

you need lower control arms or upper control arm bushings in the rear to correct camber from lowering. Otherwise you'll end up with -2.5 to -3 in the rear and a very little amount up front.

This is why I haven't installed my springs and crash bolts. Don't want to get done and find out that I have too much in the rear and can't adjust it out.

Also trying to understand how to deal with added toe in for the rear. When lowered, if it induces too much toe, then it seems LCA's like the SPC that allow to adjust or some combination of LCA's plus other parts will be required to get it back near zero.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by cycleboy

This is why I haven't installed my springs and crash bolts. Don't want to get done and find out that I have too much in the rear and can't adjust it out.

Also trying to understand how to deal with added toe in for the rear. When lowered, if it induces too much toe, then it seems LCA's like the SPC that allow to adjust or some combination of LCA's plus other parts will be required to get it back near zero.

You are correct. Although not much toe in occurs when lowering thankfully, but you can put it exactly where you want it with the SPC LCA's. I have them currently but I'm swapping to the Whiteline ones here shortly. I'm currently running -1.5 and -1.9 in the rear respectively after adjustment.

[krulux]

Originally Posted by cycleboy

Important distinction there - when stock, your car doesn't have crash bolts. You have to get them and install. They allow camber adjustment in the front that otherwise doesn't exist.

Only reason I'm debating LCA's is that I don't want to go 20mm lower and then find I have too much toe or camber and no way to adjust it.

Ok... I think we are talking about the same thing. I referring to the top OEM bolt (I call them crash bolts) you remove and replace with a smaller diameter bolt, or crash bolt, to create/eliminate camber angle. Sorry if I confused anyone... just stating it the way I understand it

Based on the information on this forum - the ProKit 7/8" to 1" drop is not so severe that the rear would need adjusting, and in fact may be desireable with a slight top in camber. (wheel choice and offset could increase/decrease the effect as well)

If I do end up eating some tires because of it... will consider purchasing LCA's at the next tire change or just move up to a decent coilover. /meh