Is a BRZ what I want?

[JS + BRZ]

The only downside I have with my BRZ is that too many random people give me thumbs ups.

Weirdos.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I forgot about the cup holders and paint. Seems like the paint/clear is super thin along with the sheet metal. I think to save weight they went lame-o on the body. I got a ding in the hood in the first few months and chips in the bumper happen way too frequently.

Also, no change pocket or other amenities aside from the 16oz bottle pockets in the doors.

They didn't go cheap on the paint. That's the way Subaru paint has been for a long time on all their cars.

Originally Posted by JS + BRZ

The only downside I have with my BRZ is that too many random people give me thumbs ups.

Weirdos.

[AznBRZer]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

They didn't go cheap on the paint. That's the way Subaru paint has been for a long time on all their cars.

It's what makes a Subaru a Subaru...

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by AznBRZer

It's what makes a Subaru a Subaru...

FR-S's have the same issue, of course.

I think it has something to do with Subaru using "green" processes...

Like using better-based paint is more harmful for the environment *cue eyeroll*

I sometimes think SOA tries to cater to the hippies waaaaaaaay too much.

[AznBRZer]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

FR-S's have the same issue, of course.

I think it has something to do with Subaru using "green" processes...

Like using better-based paint is more harmful for the environment *cue eyeroll*

I sometimes think SOA tries to cater to the hippies waaaaaaaay too much.

LOLZ...it was a joke

[1086]

LOL, laziest reason ever... That basically reminds me of those type of people that go to the gym to lift weights, yet can't re-rack the weights that they moved themselves in the first place. The irony.

[spitz]

Keep your M3, and get a vintage car. Plenty there to keep your hands greasy.

240Z, Celica, 510, 911, MG, Triumph, etc. Pick your poison.

[kuhlka]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

They didn't go cheap on the paint. That's the way Subaru paint has been for a long time on all their cars.

My 05 STI never got the same kinds of dings from road debris. It sat next to my wife's 07 Civic Si in a hail storm. STI had ZERO dings. Si? LOL. It was like ice cubes falling from the sky and the Civic was covered in dings. 86 owners have been reporting similar outcomes with their sheet metal.

It wasn't always like this. But hey, that's the price you pay for wanting a super light sports car.

[SirBrass]

What color was your STI? The white paints have always stood up better b/c of the need to put more layers on with that color, thus resulting in a stronger coat of paint.

[Kiske]

Adding more coats of b/c doesn't make for a stronger paint job. The reason the paint is so thin or "poor" as described is simply due to a minimum being applied from the factory. Less paint per car = less cost to the manufacturer per single car. Relativly thin clear coat plus a cheap product being used is the result of the durability issues. When I relate cheap with clear coat I'm not saying it is poss poor but, not the best. For instance a very common clear coat for manufacturers to use PPG
s Global line which is their high performance line, by no means cheap paint with a gallon of standard clear running usally in the high $470 range, mean while a high-solids clear from the same paint line funs $660-$800 a gallon.

[Super90]

Originally Posted by Kiske

For instance a very common clear coat for manufacturers to use PPGs Global line which is their high performance line, by no means cheap paint with a gallon of standard clear running usally in the high $470 range, mean while a high-solids clear from the same paint line funs $660-$800 a gallon.

You are confusing refinish products used in a body shop with OEM products. They are totally different products formulations. "Low bake" vs "high bake." You are right that OEMs will use different products to hit certain price points, but it is more complicated than "Global vs. Valu-Pro." For instance, clear formulations can change just to deal with seasonal changes in humidity within a plant. It is also more complicated than pointing to one paint manufacturer. While the chassis may be painted by Nippon, the front fascia could be painted by US Paint.

[extrashaky]

PDF service manuals are here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374

An ISO of the electronic service manual is here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35279

You have to either burn that ISO to a CD or load it as a drive and use Internet Explorer to access it. It's not as good as some other FSMs I have used, but the exploded views have been very helpful in seeing how parts come off.

Originally Posted by kuhlka

Oil changes and basic maintenance is pretty easy...

Except for those spark plugs. I had heard about the spark plug change and was curious, so I looked at the engine maintenance manual to see if it was really as crazy as people were saying. In the 16 pages of instructions, I noted that you have to remove the header and part of the exhaust, remove the fuel injector ECM, remove the ignition coils and buy a specially designed engine hanger (Subaru part #99099AJ000) to lift the engine. Plus, with having to raise and lower the vehicle with the engine lifted to be able to get to everything, I don't know how you would do it without a hydraulic lift. I can't imagine raising and lowering that thing with a floor jack while the engine is banging all around against all the other stuff you disconnected. When the time comes, I'm not even going to attempt it.

But at least the oil filter is easy to change.

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I got a ding in the hood in the first few months and chips in the bumper happen way too frequently.

The height and shape of this car seems to make it a rock magnet. I didn't even have 2000 miles on the car before I had a ding in the hood and a cracked windshield.

Originally Posted by JS + BRZ

The only downside I have with my BRZ is that too many random people give me thumbs ups.

Weirdos.

LOL. It is a damned fine looking car and draws a lot more attention than I was expecting.

[Cato]

If you enjoy modifying and working on your car, you owe it to yourself to also look at a Miata. The two cars have exactly the same feel while driving or during an autocross, but the Miata has far more paths for extensive modification (up to and including a corvette V8).

I just sold my 1999 supercharged Miata and bought a BRZ Limited, but my wife still has a 2004 turbocharged Mazdaspeed MX-5. We swap cars and get the best of both worlds.

Miata is due for a major revamp in 2015 if you can wait that long. In my experience, you'll be equally happy with either one.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Darkone

Hey everyone, need your help making a decision if the BRZ is for me!

I used to own a SRT4 and I loved to work on it. I am looking for a car to work on and have fun with. I am more of a mechanic than a racer so speed is not a super concern. Graduated got a good job bought a BMW M3. Its a great car but honestly not shade tree mechanic friendly. There is no service/tech manual available..so your on your own with no torque specs, assembly, etc. The problem is further complicated in that the engine itself is a 20k engine, German technology, and high tech. Honestly working on a 20k engine is not fun and not worth the risk! On top of that the after market and parts in general are crazy expensive. It also has bearing failure and it is starting to come up more and more with owners. Also, honestly..everyone on those forums are generally rich jerks....

So, I start looking around for a car that was inexpensive, had lots of room for improvement and would be fun to work on. Most of all looked great...BRZ?

So my questions are:
1. Are the after market parts fairly inexpensive?
2. Service Tech manual available for purchase?
3. Engine fairly easy to work on?
4. Engine reliable? With a 12:1 compression ratio is anyone having problems with modifying and causing motor meltdown?
5. Are people seeing significant improvements from turbos etc. getting the car down to 14 second quarter miles or better? Or is everyone having to do total internal motor and drivetrain improvements to handle the power?
6. Negatives of car?

Please comment on the 6 questions above ...and if you think based on what I mentioned this car is what I am looking for.

Cool story bro. Not sure I should reply since I am apparantly generally a rich jerk:

1. Yes. Expensive is relative, but they are considerably cheaper than M3 parts.
2. I am sure the service manuals are available for purchase. I have a couple versions in electronic form. I am not sure why you weren't able to find one for the M3
3. The downside of the boxer motor is anything having to do with the heads since they are so close to the frame rails. It makes spark plug and coil changes more difficult and the engine needs to be removed to pull the heads, but everything else is easier than your more traditional engine formats.
4. I believe the engine is reliable, but if you have fallen for the "sky is falling" approach over the S65 rod bearings, then you probably won't agree. I have a thread that has compiled the blown forced induction motors. Generally tuning is the cause.
5. You don't need to go internal on these motors. They are knock limited, but you can easily run over 300 whp and 250 ft/lbs and run low 13s or high 12s in the 1/4 mile on a stock 12.5:1 compression FA20 on 93 octane fuel. You can go much higher on power and torque with E85.
6. I can't think of any real negatives. I sold mine to get back in an E92 M3 though.