What oil will you use?

[Kiske]

Using Redline 0w20 and happy. OEM oil filter though.

[protpibe]

Putting in 300v 0w20 for spring

[robwbright]

When I told my long time transmission mechanic/racer/car builder father in law that Honda was calling for 0W20 in my Accord Coupe, he said, "You might as well piss in it as put something that light in it". We went with a 5w20. LOL. I was surprised that Honda calls for petroleum based.

For what it's worth, my father in law likes the synthetics a lot, but doesn't use them in any of his stuff because - in his opinion - dirt in the oil is a lot more of a problem than the oil breaking down (as long as you change it at regular intervals - shorter for petroleum based).

And when I say he doesn't use synthetics in anything, I'm including his 125 and 250 shifter karts, his modified dirt track car, his personal cars and trucks... he hasn't had any issues even when running the karts wide open at 12k+ rpm for 30 minutes at a time.

I use Castrol semi-synthetic in my MX bikes with no issues (one of which issues is that some oils don't work well with MX bike clutches) but I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in the bikes before with success. Petroleum based in the Accord. I'll likely use Mobil 1 synthetic in my BRZ because (1) I anticipate keeping it for 5+ years; (2) I'd rather go a bit longer between changes; and (3) the Mobil 1 is easily obtainable... but I agree with the dirt vs. break down argument. Don't let the motor get too hot and change the oil regularly so it doesn't get dirty and it probably doesn't make much difference for street use.

BTW, I'm a hair over 4000 miles - mostly longer trips - and checked the oil in the BRZ today (Still haven't done a change). Its at a good level and looked very clean. Almost like it came out of the bottle. I was a bit surprised.

[tzhu07]

I haven't changed the oil in my car yet, but for my first oil change, it's looking like 0W-20 Mobile 1. Will be purchasing from WalMart.

[reeves]

Originally Posted by robwbright

For what it's worth, my father in law likes the synthetics a lot, but doesn't use them in any of his stuff because - in his opinion - dirt in the oil is a lot more of a problem than the oil breaking down.
.

Synthetic oil offers better flow & protection for your engine in cold startups too.. I'm sure the oil gurus can attest to this. That's another good reason to go with synthetic.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by 21_nola_05

I just changed my oil to torco 10w30 100% synthetic . Ive been reading your post and see your very knowledgable .

What oil would you recommend for best performance ?


thank you

smbrm would probably say to use any oil that meets then recommendations of the manufacturer.

-Dennis

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by robwbright

When I told my long time transmission mechanic/racer/car builder father in law that Honda was calling for 0W20 in my Accord Coupe, he said, "You might as well piss in it as put something that light in it". We went with a 5w20. LOL. I was surprised that Honda calls for petroleum based.

For what it's worth, my father in law likes the synthetics a lot, but doesn't use them in any of his stuff because - in his opinion - dirt in the oil is a lot more of a problem than the oil breaking down (as long as you change it at regular intervals - shorter for petroleum based).

And when I say he doesn't use synthetics in anything, I'm including his 125 and 250 shifter karts, his modified dirt track car, his personal cars and trucks... he hasn't had any issues even when running the karts wide open at 12k+ rpm for 30 minutes at a time.

I use Castrol semi-synthetic in my MX bikes with no issues (one of which issues is that some oils don't work well with MX bike clutches) but I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in the bikes before with success. Petroleum based in the Accord. I'll likely use Mobil 1 synthetic in my BRZ because (1) I anticipate keeping it for 5+ years; (2) I'd rather go a bit longer between changes; and (3) the Mobil 1 is easily obtainable... but I agree with the dirt vs. break down argument. Don't let the motor get too hot and change the oil regularly so it doesn't get dirty and it probably doesn't make much difference for street use.

BTW, I'm a hair over 4000 miles - mostly longer trips - and checked the oil in the BRZ today (Still haven't done a change). Its at a good level and looked very clean. Almost like it came out of the bottle. I was a bit surprised.

Has your long time transmission mechanic/racer/car builder father in law seen the evidence that 0W-20 is fine? There is even data posted in this forum in the form of uoa's.

Does your long time transmission mechanic/racer/car builder father in law know that the only difference between 0W-20 and 5W-20 is that the 0W passes the cold cranking viscosity test at -35C and the 5W passes it at -30C? They are both 20 grades above those temps.

Oil color does not indicate that oil is breaking down or that it is "dirty". It can simply be from the detergents and some oils can darken in as little as a few hundred miles.

-Dennis

[shiro]

I just got done having my engine built by my tuner. I lowered my compression ratio to 10.0:1. The oil viscosity I was recommended to use is 5W-30.

I've spent quite a few hours (during the last couple weeks) reading many forms on what company and type of oil I should use. Honestly, to each their own. I chose an oil that was still top end but affordable and easy to find. I was thinking about Motul and AMSOIL but I believe Mobil1 is on par; statistics can say a lot but it really depends on the application, your setup, etc. Unless you are a serious drag racer with the engine built like the shit you'll do just fine with OEM oil. Built engines and forced induction engines could uses a thicker oil to keep the temps down. Studies show that changing the viscosity can change your HP output and fuel economy; but honestly, I don't think 10HP is that big of a deal with an FI engine. Stock, you can make it up with a different exhaust, lighter engine pullys, and hitting the gym (just kidd'n on the last one lol). Also, consider the area and the temperatures. This can help with the viscosity decision. Again, to each their own.

Personally, I like to do more frequent oil changes so cost analysis is important. Walmart sells their Mobil1 oil (5qts) for around $25. All the auto parts stores sell it for about $38 in my town. I got them to pricematch walmart and bought three.

Sources and Good Reads (from form members):
-http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

-http://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdd...l/default.html

-http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...iscosity-index

-This form and other forms

[21_nola_05]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

smbrm would probably say to use any oil that meets then recommendations of the manufacturer.

-Dennis

Ok thanks for the reply i guess ill go back to it next oil change.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by 21_nola_05

Ok thanks for the reply i guess ill go back to it next oil change.

To "it"? There are lots of oils that meet the recommendations. Any 0W-20 that meets API SN/ILSAC GF5.

-Dennis

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by shiro

Built engines and forced induction engines could uses a thicker oil to keep the temps down.

Actually, there are reports on this forum where thinner oil keeps temps down better than thicker oil in track conditions.

And there are also forced induction applications here running 0W-20. They're just using robust 20 grades like Amsoil Dominator 5W-20, Red Line 0W-20, and Motul 300V 0W-20.

Unfortunately, the numbers on the bottle (or even the brand) don't tell you much. Motul 300V 0W-20 is completely different from Motul 8100 0W-20. Likewise, Amsoil Dominator 5W-20 is completely different from Amsoil Signature 5W-20. Some robust xW-20 oils will give you similar oil pressure to some low High Temp High Shear xW-30 oils. And those xW-20's may do a better job of maintaining consistent oil pressure in extreme conditions over the oil change interval than the low HTHS 5W-30's.

-Dennis

[shiro]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Actually, there are reports on this forum where thinner oil keeps temps down better than thicker oil in track conditions.

And there are also forced induction applications here running 0W-20. They're just using robust 20 grades like Amsoil Dominator 5W-20, Red Line 0W-20, and Motul 300V 0W-20.

Unfortunately, the numbers on the bottle (or even the brand) don't tell you much. Motul 300V 0W-20 is completely different from Motul 8100 0W-20. Likewise, Amsoil Dominator 5W-20 is completely different from Amsoil Signature 5W-20. Some robust xW-20 oils will give you similar oil pressure to some low High Temp High Shear xW-30 oils. And those xW-20's may do a better job of maintaining consistent oil pressure in extreme conditions over the oil change interval than the low HTHS 5W-30's.

-Dennis

True story, it's hard to find that underlying information when companies don't initially post it for consumers to view. Those oils you have stated might have higher zinc and phosphorus levels too. But overall, track racing is a different style of driving verus daily driver (which you know). Oil is just too damn expensive these days :p

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by shiro

Oil is just too damn expensive these days :p

The U.S. doesn't know what expensive oil is! Want Mobil1 in Australia? It can cost up to AU$95. If you find it for <AU$75, that's the deal of the decade!

In the U.S. people freak out if they have to pay US$35-$45 for 5 quarts.

-Dennis

[tbrocato]

Running Toyota 0w20 right now and I love it! I think its better than eneos sustina 0w20 and Subaru 0w20. Those are the other two I have tried.