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#701 |
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That Guy
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The bump stops are designed to be progressive, to help prevent jarring... not that it works perfectly, but I'm sure it's better than if they were designed otherwise.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Calum For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (01-28-2014) |
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#702 |
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I realize that, but the question is about the typical amount of spring rate they add in a typical corner.
I'm trying to guesstimate what the effective spring rate is when the bump stop is taken into account to see what the actual f/r spring rate balance is stock.
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#703 | |
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For most people, the Monoflex is a great deal because it already includes camber plates, and is valved specific to the rates it comes with. It doesn't offer flexibility to change rates, but it also makes adjusting the damping one dimensional, instead of two. The KW/RCE is a twin tube, and the Monoflex is a Monotube. I generally prefer monotubes, so it's unusual for me to recommend a twin tube over a mono tube. You'll need to decide for yourself which is more suited to your needs. The Monoflex is a great value for the price, but offers less flexibility. If you're not going to be playing with adjustments much, you may be better off with the Monoflex. |
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#704 |
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Thanks Mike. Yes, that makes perfect sense. The T2's sound fantastic..but like you said, with adding upper mounts it will be much more expensive..making the MonoFlexes attractive pricewise.
Now..how about T2 vs a GC kit setup? GC kit is pretty affordable, offers custom rates, and also comes with quality upper mounts...just unsure if their koni's are up to par with T2's valvings and MonoFlex's valvings though (most likely they aren't, from what I am reading the Koni's aren't as firm/aggressive for motorsports...unless GC custom valves their Konis in their kits per spring rate request and kit ordered ..which I doubt at their same/retail/base price). |
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#705 |
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I asked this question here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56678 but I think it is going to get buried.
The motion ratio at the rear is approximately 0.75. I ran the calculation for spring rate "at the wheel" as 0.75 x spring rate but ZDan did the calculation as motion ratio squared x spring rate. Could you please explain why squaring is used? Thanks.
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#706 | |
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#707 | |
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Why you have to square the motion ratio
Here's my attempt to physically explain why you have to square the motion ratio to get the wheel rate from the spring rate:
Say you have a simple control arm, inboard end pivots at the unibody, and the wheel/tire is mounted to the outboard end. Say you are able to vertically mount a 100 lb/in spring all the way out at the wheel/tire end. Motion ratio = 1. Apply a 100 lb. vertical force at the wheel/tire. Resultant vertical deflection is 100 lb./(100 lb/in) = 1 in. Wheel rate is the same as the spring rate, 100 lb/in. Remove that spring and place a spring vertically at the point halfway between the control arm pivot and the wheel/tire end. Motion ratio is now 0.5. What spring rate is required to give the same 100 lb/in wheel rate? If you just double the spring rate to 200 lb/in, here's what happens: Apply 100 lb. at the wheel/tire. To resist this, the spring has to apply 200 lb. at the midpoint because it has 1/2 the leverage. To resist with 200 lb, the 200 lb/in spring must deflect 1 in. If the deflection is 1" at the spring, which is only halfway along the control arm, then the deflection at the wheel/tire is 2". So the wheel rate is now 50 lb/in, not 100 lb/in You need a 400 lb/in spring to achieve the same 100 lb/in wheel rate as before. 400 lb/in * (0.5)^2 = 400 lb/in * 0.25 = 100 lb/in, the correct wheel rate. Basically, with 1/2 the motion ratio, you have to double the spring rate TWICE. Once to get 2x the force (needed because of reduced leverage). And again to account for having to apply this greater force with only HALF the spring deflection (so that the deflection at the wheel is the same and not 2x). OK, that was kind of wordy but hopefully makes the point... Quote:
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#708 | |
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#709 |
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I think the T0 would prolly be a better comparison vs the GC kit ..as both of these are fixed valving...but then, the GC kit would have the upper mounts included... so, it would come down to which has firmer or better valving for higher rates... which I would guess the T0 too would be the better choice over the GC kit again.
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#710 |
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Thinking of going to the KW V3's over the T0's for a softer street ride. I don't see the track, and if anything a few HPDE's here and there. The T0's seem firmer, but I've heard from others the V3's are one of the most comfortable street coilovers out there with lots of flexibility.
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#711 |
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This could just be me but the fact that the T2's didn't come with mounts was a plus because it allowed me to get the ones I wanted instead of wasting money with the typically crappy mounts that come prepackaged. Of course not everyone is willing to spend close to a $1000 on raceseng front and rear mounts.
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#712 | |
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Unless you need all the adjustability, the V1's will be a great option.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wparsons For This Useful Post: | FR-S Matt (01-29-2014) |
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#713 |
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Yeah, I don't need all the adjustability of the V3's. Are they awesome? Yes. I'm more of the set the height, forget it, and drive type. There are things I do like about the Tarmac 0's on the road though. It does feel like a more sport-like suspension over bumps and feels great around corners.
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#714 | |
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- Andy |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (01-29-2014) |
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