The Drifting Thread

[THA STI GUY]

I havnt drifted on these yet i was using my 19x8.5 5axis wheels on the front and 17x7 wheels for rear wheels. I am in the middle of hopfully getting a partile or full sponsorship from a wheel company for this year so i may be getting some different wheels.

[Ryaquinn]

Yea. Only problem with wide body and drifting. Now it requires super wide wheels to look right.


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[THA STI GUY]

Its not like im in FD and getting televised on tv or the internet streaming i dont really care what im running for drift spares and it will only be the rear ones as long as im having fun. But if all goes planned i should be boosted by drift season and then i can spin bigger wheels.

[Ryaquinn]

Oh. Yea. I have extra sets of the stock wheels I use for rears. They work perfect


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[THA STI GUY]

Yeah i have my 4 stock wheels, 4 msr webby wheels, 4 tsw wheels, 2 other no name wheels. just for my rear drift wheels

[executivekoala]

So here’s my review on The Parts Shop max subframe risers.
This is actually my 2nd set, it had the original prototypes that were supposed to go on tony angles car but he didn’t need them I guess so Dan at PBM let me have then (which was really cool of him) and I just paid for the install. I will be honest on my first set I was still getting used to everything so I can’t say how great or what gains I made I just knew it was fucking loud. You could hear every noise the diff made and at highway speeds the diff sounded like an exhaust…I loved it but for most people it would be too much. That set up though had the solid diff mounts/risers and the solid sub frame inserts and the subframe risers. This time around I’m running the diff risers and the sub frame risers without the weld in diff mounts. I got to say I love it. The rear finally stopped feeling nervous and is much much more progressive. Ride quality feels very good, no hopping around…it almost kind feels like stock again. The noise is nowhere near what it was the 1st time. There is a wine but it’s not too bad and I wouldn’t call it annoying. I have more exhaust clearance and it lowered the rear end a bit more which for some people will be really nice. Lastly you can see even though I’m pretty low my axles look a lot more straight than they used to before which gives me more piece of mind when I’m beating on my car.
So this time my buddy and I did the install…I will tell you flat out it’s a fucking bitch…do not even try if you are a beginner..It was stressful and if I didn’t have my buddy I would have just gone to PBM and had them do it. Here’s a basic run down
1. Unbolt the exhaust
2. Take of caliper and disconnect brake lines
3. Take off hub and disconnect handbrake
4. Unbolt the diff from drive line
5. Unbolt subframe-4pts
6. Lower subframe-we used two jacks for this-this is the easy part- it’s not fun putting it back up
7. With a torch-torch the shit out the bushings- till they are smoking and like goo-then beat them out
8. Then there are hardened steel rings around the bushing-there were a nightmare for us-either you can hit them out with a big socket or saw like we did but that’s stressful because we did on accident cut into the subframe a bit by mistake.
9. Put new risers in
10. With angles grinder grind down the excess subframe-you will see when you do it-or just use the spacers provided
11. Get subframe back in-this is was scary for my because we only had jacks and the subframe is like 350 lbs
12. Do the reverse of taking it out
13. Bleed brakes

[Ryaquinn]

With the risers, can you still use a diff brace? (Like cusco and beat rush)


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[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by executivekoala

So here’s my review on The Parts Shop max subframe risers.
This is actually my 2nd set, it had the original prototypes that were supposed to go on tony angles car but he didn’t need them I guess so Dan at PBM let me have then (which was really cool of him) and I just paid for the install. I will be honest on my first set I was still getting used to everything so I can’t say how great or what gains I made I just knew it was fucking loud. You could hear every noise the diff made and at highway speeds the diff sounded like an exhaust…I loved it but for most people it would be too much. That set up though had the solid diff mounts/risers and the solid sub frame inserts and the subframe risers. This time around I’m running the diff risers and the sub frame risers without the weld in diff mounts. I got to say I love it. The rear finally stopped feeling nervous and is much much more progressive. Ride quality feels very good, no hopping around…it almost kind feels like stock again. The noise is nowhere near what it was the 1st time. There is a wine but it’s not too bad and I wouldn’t call it annoying. I have more exhaust clearance and it lowered the rear end a bit more which for some people will be really nice. Lastly you can see even though I’m pretty low my axles look a lot more straight than they used to before which gives me more piece of mind when I’m beating on my car.
So this time my buddy and I did the install…I will tell you flat out it’s a fucking bitch…do not even try if you are a beginner..It was stressful and if I didn’t have my buddy I would have just gone to PBM and had them do it. Here’s a basic run down
1. Unbolt the exhaust
2. Take of caliper and disconnect brake lines
3. Take off hub and disconnect handbrake
4. Unbolt the diff from drive line
5. Unbolt subframe-4pts
6. Lower subframe-we used two jacks for this-this is the easy part- it’s not fun putting it back up
7. With a torch-torch the shit out the bushings- till they are smoking and like goo-then beat them out
8. Then there are hardened steel rings around the bushing-there were a nightmare for us-either you can hit them out with a big socket or saw like we did but that’s stressful because we did on accident cut into the subframe a bit by mistake.
9. Put new risers in
10. With angles grinder grind down the excess subframe-you will see when you do it-or just use the spacers provided
11. Get subframe back in-this is was scary for my because we only had jacks and the subframe is like 350 lbs
12. Do the reverse of taking it out
13. Bleed brakes

So with all the risers installed, how much of a difference did it make as far as the suspension geometry and axle angle goes? Enough keep from blowing axles all the time?

[TylerLieberman]

Anybody drifted the car with 16s?

I'm thinking of picking up a set of 16s and throwing some 205s on them later in the year. Car is going to be staying N/A a good while and I wanna be able to have some more fun with the larger tracks that are using close to 100mph entries.

Thinking 205/55r16s with like 45-50psi cold would be loads of fun. That coupled with some extra steering angle, and a stage 1 tune to be able to use the rev limiter if needed

[executivekoala]

^ To answer your questions you can use a diff brace because that would mount to the control arm and the diff. And yea I can tell my axles are at a batter angle. I mean they are still angled up but not as bad. I dont think anything can put them to stock without going back to stock but Dan at pbm has told me he's thrashed his car and hes still on oem axles.

[diss7]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

Anybody drifted the car with 16s?

I'm thinking of picking up a set of 16s and throwing some 205s on them later in the year. Car is going to be staying N/A a good while and I wanna be able to have some more fun with the larger tracks that are using close to 100mph entries.

Thinking 205/55r16s with like 45-50psi cold would be loads of fun. That coupled with some extra steering angle, and a stage 1 tune to be able to use the rev limiter if needed

I do. Don't use 205/55 profile, it's too much profile. 205/50 is much better. I still run 17s on the front.

[diss7]

Also with 16s and 55psi the faster you go, the easier it'll drift. I haven't done any 100mph entries, but genuine 70-80mph entries, it'll just feint in nicely. You need to attack the corners at circuit racing type speeds and lines, go in to slow and it won't have enough to get through.

Drifting the 86 at speed has been a real learning process, compared to other drift cars I've had. Got to use so much speed, and dial so much grip out of the back. I've tried a few setups on it now. Where I'm at now, 205/40/17 semi slicks at 28psi cold on the front, 205/50/16 crap at 55psi cold in the back. And I'm really enjoying it.

[diss7]

Also, re: more steering angle, I used to think that as well. Now I'm finding that of I use full stock angle, I'm scrubbing off way too much speed. There is one section at my track where you come around a 3rd gear left hander into a tight 2nd gear right hander. I wish I had more steering angle in that section, to scrub more speed off, but that's the only section I've found a real need for more angle.

This is all NA of course.

[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by diss7

Also, re: more steering angle, I used to think that as well. Now I'm finding that of I use full stock angle, I'm scrubbing off way too much speed. There is one section at my track where you come around a 3rd gear left hander into a tight 2nd gear right hander. I wish I had more steering angle in that section, to scrub more speed off, but that's the only section I've found a real need for more angle.

This is all NA of course.

Word.

I'm not talking PBM knuckles. I'm just talking some tie rods with rack spacers. Just a little more. In Vegas, I was full lock everywhere and would have loved to have just a little more angle available.

As far as axles go, I'm just curious cause I've already gone through the OEM ones and they aren't very strong. So I've been thinking of going up to the DSS axles and never have to worry about them again. But if all the risers really help that much, I can put off buying them for the time being.

I'm still gonna buy them, but it's either now or further down the road