CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

It's not recommended to go higher than stock. The shocks are designed for a lower ride height and do not like being topped out.

You could do a 15mm drop or so.

- Andy

Cool, that's what I figured, just wanted to clarify.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mokinbird87

we probably already talked about this set up on top of the DJ parking lot haha. remember my friend Sung with the black BRZ? he just put on the PSSs and I finally got to go for a drive in em so I can finally make some decisions

HMU tonight.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Swaybars, bushings, and a good alignment will go a long way.

- Andy

Cool, thanks.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Malt

Hmm, I'm running T2s with raceseng rear top hats. I'm only lowered 1" but the top hats raise the mounting point up 2". I know i asked this before I put then on but will this cause issues?

You're fine, the fronts are the main thing because the struts see side loads.

- andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by mokinbird87

So, I went for a drive in my buddy`s BRZ with the Bilstein PSS. I really really like the dampening quality of the Bilstein, but I am not a fan of the progressive springs. After driving a few different set ups, I think I`m leaning towards a linear 400/400 rate on a mono-tube damper.

main purpose of the car: the car will see 2-3 track events a year, but 90% for spirited daily driving. most importantly, the car will be on extreme performance summer tires such as the Hankook RS3's or Dunlop Direzza's ( i think this is important as tire compound and suspension set up should be in sync).

main question: can the bilstein be equipped with Swift coilover springs, or does it only accept OEM style springs? if it does accept coilover springs will the dampening curve cover up to 400lbs? will I mess up all the work that the German engineers put into the kit by switching out the springs?

or will I be happy with just camber plate/sway bars/swift spec R springs on the oem shocks for what I want to do with the car?

I would say the Bilsteins are almost perfect for my taste, but still just a bit bouncy... I rather be a bit stiffer and have less bobblehead and hit bumps a bit harder.

To put linear coilover springs on the Bilsteins would require the springs + new upper spring perches. I'd also recommend helper springs + spring separators.

Going to 400 lb springs might require a revalve in the front.

In the end you spend a decent amount of money but it would be an awesome set up.

- Andy

[mokinbird87]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

To put linear coilover springs on the Bilsteins would require the springs + new upper spring perches. I'd also recommend helper springs + spring separators.

Going to 400 lb springs might require a revalve in the front.

In the end you spend a decent amount of money but it would be an awesome set up.

- Andy

maybe by then I might as well just shell out a few more and get something in the JRZ category

I have a pretty close friend in Bilstein.. I may ask for some help from their department to see what I can come up with...

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Swaybars, bushings, and a good alignment will go a long way.

- Andy

I've got a couple of follow-on question as I edumacate myself.

Assuming I've got stickier tires on, what swaybar upgrades / configurations do you specifically recommend to keep balanced handling?

All of the aftermarkets I have seen offer varying degrees of stiffness increase over the stock setup. So, should I be looking at front only, or front and back, and if so do I want to increase the stiffness of the front more in comparison to the back?

Any recommendations as to specific components would be appreciated as well.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I've got a couple of follow-on question as I edumacate myself.

Assuming I've got stickier tires on, what swaybar upgrades / configurations do you specifically recommend to keep balanced handling?

All of the aftermarkets I have seen offer varying degrees of stiffness increase over the stock setup. So, should I be looking at front only, or front and back, and if so do I want to increase the stiffness of the front more in comparison to the back?

Any recommendations as to specific components would be appreciated as well.

See above for bushing recommendations (thanks normancw!)

For swaybars you're going to want bigger front and rear. I do prefer increasing the stiffness a little more up front, especially with an FRS.

I recommend our RCE swaybars for most uses except cars with very stiff coilovers. They'd fit the bill nicely for you.

- Andy

[jvincent]

Thanks guys.

[FR-S Matt]

Question about handling. On coilovers, RCE Tarmac 0's specifically, last thread on the front is how low I am (1.3" or so), with 18X9.5's with 245/35's, how can I increase my grip a bit more? I've seen an occasional low trac light when taking some corners hard. Almost feels like I get some slip, could be the tires (Continental ExtremeContact DW's) I've got more of a daily drive camber at 0 in front and -1 in the rear but I will be changing that.

I've got 16MM whiteline bolts to install for the front coils, and SPC LCA's for adjusting the rear already installed. I intend on doing -2 or -2.5 in front and about -1.5 in the rear with 0 toe up front, 1/16 toe-in rear for straight line. What would you suggest I do if my main goal is for grip? Are my wheels/tires too wide? Should I also consider sway bars since I'm on stock? Just looking to improve my handling even further and push my aftermarket parts. Goal being more street friendly with the possibility of seeing a track maybe a few times.

For braking, I wanted to know if Stoptech's are good DD pads. Currently using the Hawk's Ceramics and I get a slight squeak on one of the pads. I've got Goodridge SS lines and Motul 5.1 fluid ready to swap in as well. Other brake pad suggestions are welcome as long as they don't kill my street/daily driving. The balance of low dust and good bite seems almost impossible without a tradeoff.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

Question about handling. On coilovers, RCE Tarmac 0's specifically, last thread on the front is how low I am (1.3" or so), with 18X9.5's with 245/35's, how can I increase my grip a bit more? I've seen an occasional low trac light when taking some corners hard. Almost feels like I get some slip, could be the tires (Continental ExtremeContact DW's) I've got more of a daily drive camber at 0 in front and -1 in the rear but I will be changing that.

I've got 16MM whiteline bolts to install for the front coils, and SPC LCA's for adjusting the rear already installed. I intend on doing -2 or -2.5 in front and about -1.5 in the rear with 0 toe up front, 1/16 toe-in rear for straight line. What would you suggest I do if my main goal is for grip? Are my wheels/tires too wide? Should I also consider sway bars since I'm on stock? Just looking to improve my handling even further and push my aftermarket parts. Goal being more street friendly with the possibility of seeing a track maybe a few times.

For braking, I wanted to know if Stoptech's are good DD pads. Currently using the Hawk's Ceramics and I get a slight squeak on one of the pads. I've got Goodridge SS lines and Motul 5.1 fluid ready to swap in as well. Other brake pad suggestions are welcome as long as they don't kill my street/daily driving. The balance of low dust and good bite seems almost impossible without a tradeoff.

Add more camber front AND rear. You'll probably need a camber plate in the front.

Braking friction (mu) and dust are almost always inversely related.

If you want a street pad with some increased bite and heat capacity, I'd recommend a Carbotech AX6 or Project Mu B-force. Both dust slightly more than stock pads, but offer significantly improved capabilities.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

Question about handling. On coilovers, RCE Tarmac 0's specifically, last thread on the front is how low I am (1.3" or so), with 18X9.5's with 245/35's, how can I increase my grip a bit more? I've seen an occasional low trac light when taking some corners hard. Almost feels like I get some slip, could be the tires (Continental ExtremeContact DW's) I've got more of a daily drive camber at 0 in front and -1 in the rear but I will be changing that.

I've got 16MM whiteline bolts to install for the front coils, and SPC LCA's for adjusting the rear already installed. I intend on doing -2 or -2.5 in front and about -1.5 in the rear with 0 toe up front, 1/16 toe-in rear for straight line. What would you suggest I do if my main goal is for grip? Are my wheels/tires too wide? Should I also consider sway bars since I'm on stock? Just looking to improve my handling even further and push my aftermarket parts. Goal being more street friendly with the possibility of seeing a track maybe a few times.

For braking, I wanted to know if Stoptech's are good DD pads. Currently using the Hawk's Ceramics and I get a slight squeak on one of the pads. I've got Goodridge SS lines and Motul 5.1 fluid ready to swap in as well. Other brake pad suggestions are welcome as long as they don't kill my street/daily driving. The balance of low dust and good bite seems almost impossible without a tradeoff.

Agreed with CSG, you need more camber first and foremost. Front and rear. It will go a LONG way to adding grip.

You should be able to get at least -2.0 up front without plates since the front strut is slotted.

I run stoptech street pads on my Mini. They're an improvement over the Hawks. Not super aggressive but a good street pad.

- Andy

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Agreed with CSG, you need more camber first and foremost. Front and rear. It will go a LONG way to adding grip.

You should be able to get at least -2.0 up front without plates since the front strut is slotted.

I run stoptech street pads on my Mini. They're an improvement over the Hawks. Not super aggressive but a good street pad.

- Andy

Yeah, I'll try to avoid plates if I can in front. Even -2, -1.5 should be sufficient for what I want. I definitely am considering new pads over the Hawk's. Hell, even my stocks are better than these. Not worth the "lower brake dust" for worse bite. Thanks Andy!

[Calum]

Will the GTWORX struts be the same as the B8? What are the differences between the B* and B6? Would there be any point in running the B6 with RCE yellows?