Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[Gen]

I am also using a 10 PSI spring in my BOV without issue. It actually doesn't do the surgey squirrel noise anymore. That was before I switched to a speed density tune.

[lexusb3]

Originally Posted by mack4477

I put 8k miles on my kit last year. Car has been in the garage since November

Talked to LJ the other day. All set up to take the car back to them in March for my build. Rods, 10:1, radiator, oil cooler, catch can

I ain't forget about you going to Texas to run you! Lol

[stueck9356]

From my experience, you do NOT want to set the BoV spring to your vaccum at idle. You want to set the BoV spring to the lightest setting possible that will still hold boost. Reason is this:

Your 11psi spring will not open the BoV until mani pressure is about 20-22 in/hg. Meaning if you are boosting, and you let off the gas, your BoV will not open until your manifold sees that high vacuum. But if you enter boost, then you let off but do not reach that high vacuum, your BoV will not discharge and you will get turbo flutter.

Most people mistakenly think that the BoV should be set up to be closed at idle. This is not true, and actually reduces fuel economy in DD because the exhaust pressure is constantly spinning the turbo, and today's turbos are efficient enough that they can supply more air to an idle/crusing engine than it needs. If you have a fully closed BoV at idle/cruise, than your turbo is seeing stress because it wants to force air that isn't needed, causing higher exhaust pressures pre-turbo. You can verify this by removing your BoV and running the car at idle, you will actually feel air being blown out of that hole (rather than air being sucked into it from mani vacuum)

Your BoV should in fact be set up to be closed at boost using the LEAST amount of spring tension required. This is always very minimal. When boosted at, say 9psi, the BoV see's 9psi on both the top and bottom sides. The pressure is equal, so the BoV only needs enough spring to keep it sealed, not enough spring to mash it closed at high-pressure differences, which is what a 12psi spring is doing.

My 08 miata was the last boosted car I had. It was VTA, and had a synapse DV on it. I pulled 22 in/hg at idle and could get 25-27 on engine breaking. but the BoV didn't seal until about 5in/hg. That also means it opened at 5in/hg. Using either pull through or blow through MAF, you will get a correct reading if your plumbing is right.

TL;DR, tune your BoV spring to boost pressure, not idle vacuum, and save your turbo.

[Dipstik-sportech]

I dunno I jammed a 10psi spring in mine and it works great lol.

The Frozen North

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

And thats why you dont run a bov


Sent from my IBrick

[Deadspool]

Im getting a little flutter on the 11psi spring, flutter flutter hisssss.

I think the 10 is where it's at.

[DeliciousTuning]

Hi All,

We spent most of the day this past Friday working on a brand new Speed Density map, working on idle, cruising, partial throttle and of course WOT. I feel the tune a a LOT better versus our previous version and also makes more consistent power now. To give you an idea we spent 13 hours working on the speed density aspect of the tune to truely dial it in nice.



Here are the dyno charts above, of the baseline as how it comes from Full Blown, versus our base map on Speed Density and our E85 tune. This specific vehicle has FlexFuel for all the maps, Speed Density on each map and Switchable Boost Maps through the cruise control. About 7, 8 and 9 psi maps all on EcuTeK RaceROM.

Cheers,
William Knose

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by stueck9356

From my experience, you do NOT want to set the BoV spring to your vaccum at idle. You want to set the BoV spring to the lightest setting possible that will still hold boost. Reason is this:

Your 11psi spring will not open the BoV until mani pressure is about 20-22 in/hg. Meaning if you are boosting, and you let off the gas, your BoV will not open until your manifold sees that high vacuum. But if you enter boost, then you let off but do not reach that high vacuum, your BoV will not discharge and you will get turbo flutter.

Most people mistakenly think that the BoV should be set up to be closed at idle. This is not true, and actually reduces fuel economy in DD because the exhaust pressure is constantly spinning the turbo, and today's turbos are efficient enough that they can supply more air to an idle/crusing engine than it needs. If you have a fully closed BoV at idle/cruise, than your turbo is seeing stress because it wants to force air that isn't needed, causing higher exhaust pressures pre-turbo. You can verify this by removing your BoV and running the car at idle, you will actually feel air being blown out of that hole (rather than air being sucked into it from mani vacuum)

Your BoV should in fact be set up to be closed at boost using the LEAST amount of spring tension required. This is always very minimal. When boosted at, say 9psi, the BoV see's 9psi on both the top and bottom sides. The pressure is equal, so the BoV only needs enough spring to keep it sealed, not enough spring to mash it closed at high-pressure differences, which is what a 12psi spring is doing.

My 08 miata was the last boosted car I had. It was VTA, and had a synapse DV on it. I pulled 22 in/hg at idle and could get 25-27 on engine breaking. but the BoV didn't seal until about 5in/hg. That also means it opened at 5in/hg. Using either pull through or blow through MAF, you will get a correct reading if your plumbing is right.

TL;DR, tune your BoV spring to boost pressure, not idle vacuum, and save your turbo.

Cool story bro, but the issue is the placement of the BOV on this kit makes it mess with the air flow across the MAF if it opens at idle. Remember the Greddy kit doesnt even use a BOV, so I will stick with what TiAl says and run a spring for my appropriate vacuum at idle.

[DeliciousTuning]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Cool story bro, but the issue is the placement of the BOV on this kit makes it mess with the air flow across the MAF if it opens at idle. Remember the Greddy kit doesnt even use a BOV, so I will stick with what TiAl says and run a spring for my appropriate vacuum at idle.

Just run a Speed Density and never have another problem.

[toekneehair]

@DeliciousTuning
I have been driving around all day! I love this tune! It is smooth when I am not on it then when I put the pedal down the car turns into a rocket. It pulls hard with no hesitation, well besides the hesitation of the tires trying to get traction haha.

If anyone out here has the FBM kit and is in SOCAL I highly suggest hitting up delicious tuning for a tune. You will not be happier. Better make sure you upgrade your clutch though this puts the stock one at its limit for sure! oh and running the E85 I haven't seen nearly as much build up on the heat. I haven't even seen the coolant go above half way. The oil sits around 93C when on the highway, in town it only got up to 103C for a short bit when I was really on it. My welding friend is going to build me that intercooler vent to move the hot are away from the radiator.. I will let you know how it goes.

[toekneehair]

Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning

Hi All,

We spent most of the day this past Friday working on a brand new Speed Density map, working on idle, cruising, partial throttle and of course WOT. I feel the tune a a LOT better versus our previous version and also makes more consistent power now. To give you an idea we spent 13 hours working on the speed density aspect of the tune to truely dial it in nice.



Here are the dyno charts above, of the baseline as how it comes from Full Blown, versus our base map on Speed Density and our E85 tune. This specific vehicle has FlexFuel for all the maps, Speed Density on each map and Switchable Boost Maps through the cruise control. About 7, 8 and 9 psi maps all on EcuTeK RaceROM.

Cheers,
William Knose

BTW we did hit 295. But the computer recorded it in the wrong spot so we couldn't overlay the map with the rest. but my video shows the photo shot of the screen after we made the run.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vrz6NwAE2t4"]Toekneehair - Subaru BRZ - Dyno Run Full Blown Turbo Kit - YouTube[/ame]

[Gen]

New tune is definitely nice. Just threw it on and went out for a drive.

[Deadspool]

Im loading this tune tomorrow, so excited I could pee.

[dabocx]

Wanted to jump up to a gtx3076 but even at 370whp im having alot of traction issues. Going to get some wider tires in the rear, I doubt going from 245 to 275 will help much but it cant hurt.