Tail Light Condensation

[RFB]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

Don't mean to provoke anyone or hit any nerves. That really sucks, you must be in the worst case scenario for conditions to lead to this.

I'm sure you've accounted for this, but it's possible the thin metal underbody is warped, rendering any dry gasket useless. At least a wet sealant such as silicon or a tacky putty (maybe snowman snot would work in the same way) would fill the tiny gaps and voids left behind by a dry gasket.

When I had the taillight assembly out I believe the only way for moisture to actually enter the assembly was through the bulb sockets, because there's no seal there. (Unless the housings are cracked/damaged/flawed/modified, etc providing another pathway). Apparently the hot/cool cycles each day are sucking moist air into the housings where it later condenses if you live in a humid environment. If the sockets are the only pathway, maybe just use some of the snowman snot mentioned above if its removable? I can't remember how the bulb sockets were shaped, but I imagine it would work either as a gasket inside the socket or packed around the outside.

Snot is for a water dam at the top.
Gaskets need waterproof glue (silicone, rubber cement etc.).



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[wdninja]

Originally Posted by RFB

The pics on this forum of condensation (and all the ones I've seen) show condensation forming on the inside tops of the tail lights. This is indicative of water getting in on top. If left unchecked enough water gets in to collect on the bottom.

While I agree that the top of the housing is the most assaulted with water from the stupid design of the trunk, it doesn't mean that's where the water/moisture is getting in, because hot air (and the water molecules in it) rises - that's why it shows up in the top of the housing first.

Originally Posted by RFB

It is also important to follow the tsb with regards to peening the car body bolt holes, tightening torque etc. for flush mounting otherwise all else is in vain.

Definitely. Sadly the dealership techs generally take a "who needs to read the instructions!?" approach. You can straighten out the body holes with a couple of big washers, a bolt and a nut. put a washer on either side of the sheet metal and crank it down.

The torque specs for the 4 tail light mounting nuts are 3.25 ftlbs/39 inlbs/4.4 Nm.

Originally Posted by dem00n

I've done it all under the sun. New custom cut gaskets, double gaskets, silicone and so forth.

I'll try the caulk, but it's the underbody of the taillight of which moisture from the air gets in, not so much the rainflow or waterfowl from the trunk. There have been days where there is no water at all touching the car and i'll still get it. I live near the water, theres moisture in the air all day.

I've spent over $60 on fixing a seal of taillight, boy doesn't that sound stupid?

Whoa, whoa, wait ... DOUBLE gaskets? Why?

The dealer replaced your housings for you once, right? If so, and they didn't over torque them, the housings are probably fine. I recommend starting from a blank slate, addressing each possible issue.

• Housings Cracked?
• Sheet metal holes warped?
• Gasket properly and fully sealed all the way around the ridge on the back of the housing?

Assuming the housings are fine (after they're dry), try and straighten out the sheet metal if it's bent/warped with the bolt/washer method above. PM me with your shipping info and I'll send you a newly manufactured set of gaskets with a tube of the 3M Automotive Weatherstrip Adhesive for free (I think you bought a hand-cut set from me a while back). Also get some kind of adhesive tack (snowman snot) that RFB uses, and block the water from flowing over the top as he's shown multiple times in this thread. The combination of properly sealing the (better) gaskets all the way around with the weatherstrip adhesive AND the snowman snot dam AND ensuring the sheet metal/housings are sound and I don't see how you'd still be getting condensation.

We really want this issue to be resolved for you - we know how frustrating it is.

Note: When applying the Weatherstrip Adhesive, apply a thick bead directly onto the ridge of the tail light housing, then press the gasket down onto it. With a fresh, uncompressed gasket, you won't know exactly where the sealant should go and could miss a spot if you apply it to the gasket first. It should make a solid bead all the way around.



I'll be making an instructional video for all of this soon.

I live in VA but I visit Upstate NY frequently (I'm from the Albany area originally). If you're still having problems I'd be happy to stop in on the way up and help get this issue resolved.

[RFB]

Originally Posted by wdninja

The torque specs for the 4 tail light mounting nuts are 3.25 ftlbs/39 inlbs/4.4 Nm.

Dealer torque specs are for the OEM thin gaskets and similar.
Methinks different tightness would benefit thick neoprene, as it has more cushion and more of a tendency for the bolt mounting hole to bend into the cushion when tightened ?

Perhaps slightly less torque ?



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[dem00n]

Sorry for getting mad everyone, it just sucks waking up in the morning and seeing it. Everyone loves to point it out too.

When the weather allows i'll try the cut out foam gasket and re bead it again. I'll also pick up some snot. I'll check for bent metal as well. The gaskets aren't cracked, i checked a few times for those.

The double gasket idea came from a friend, he had an Acura with the same problem and the double gasket stopped any condensation.

Edit: Btw, plumber plutty has been known to stain plastics, they don't work so well with plastics but each brand differs with the oil....

[wdninja]

Originally Posted by RFB

Dealer torque specs are for the OEM thin gaskets and similar. Methinks different tightness would benefit thick neoprene, as it has more cushion and more of a tendency for the bolt mounting hole to bend into the cushion when tightened ? Perhaps slightly less torque?

Personally I'd stick with the factory torque specs. The thicker gasket foam is made out of much higher quality closed-cell neoprene rubber foam, but barely thicker. My gaskets are 1/4" (6.35mm) whereas the stock gaskets are 3/16" (4.76mm). The torque specs are mainly so you don't stress where the threaded posts attach to the plastic tail light housings and crack them. Given that the gaskets compress, it shouldn't be a problem given they're only 1.59mm thicker. I wouldn't personally go with less torque, as it could make the difference in getting a full, consistent seal around the entire housing.

[RFB]

Originally Posted by wdninja

Personally I'd stick with the factory torque specs. The thicker gasket foam is made out of much higher quality closed-cell neoprene rubber foam, but barely thicker. My gaskets are 1/4" (6.35mm) whereas the stock gaskets are 3/16" (4.76mm). The torque specs are mainly so you don't stress where the threaded posts attach to the plastic tail light housings and crack them. Given that the gaskets compress, it shouldn't be a problem given they're only 1.59mm thicker. I wouldn't personally go with less torque, as it could make the difference in getting a full, consistent seal around the entire housing.

Yep - thin enough.



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[lepxep84]

FYI, mine is 2014 model and I found some condensation on my tail light after a few rainy days. Contacted the dealer regarding the issue and they ordered new lamp housings to replace the current one on my car

[RFB]

Originally Posted by lepxep84

FYI, mine is 2014 model and I found some condensation on my tail light after a few rainy days. Contacted the dealer regarding the issue and they ordered new lamp housings to replace the current one on my car

it will happen again - unless ---------------



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[PollosHermanos]

Isn't there a hole in the housing itself, on the outside, to allow the thing to breathe? WOuld that not work in reverse as well, allowing moisture in?

I haven't gone to my dealer about it just yet but I've definitely got this on my 2014.

[frslee]

Mine was replaced, but there's another condensation.

I'm just going to fix it on my own.

[Opie]

Some condensation is normal, how can you tell if it's normal you ask? If it is light condensation that evaporates within 1 day it is probably normal. If you have large droplets of water or water puddling in the bottom of the taillight, that is not normal.

[smg1138]

Hey, I've been lurking a while, but this is actually my first post. Since I'm having this problem, this seemed like a good place to start. I have a 2013 FR-S and starting getting condensation in my passenger side rear tail light about a month after I bought it. I took it to Toyota and they ordered a replacement. It's been about 2 months now, but the replacement part still hasn't arrived. Is it normal to take that long? Also, should a new seal come with the new tail light? I really don't want this to happen again.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by smg1138

Hey, I've been lurking a while, but this is actually my first post. Since I'm having this problem, this seemed like a good place to start. I have a 2013 FR-S and starting getting condensation in my passenger side rear tail light about a month after I bought it. I took it to Toyota and they ordered a replacement. It's been about 2 months now, but the replacement part still hasn't arrived. Is it normal to take that long? Also, should a new seal come with the new tail light? I really don't want this to happen again.

It can take a while, but call and check. When I went in, they just replaced gaskets, not tail lights.

I personally believe replacing the tail lights will not fix the issue because I don't believe that is the problem.

[smg1138]

I called Toyota today and they finally got the replacement part in. I think they had it for a while and just forgot to call me. lol Hopefully this will take care of the issue.