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Old 12-26-2013, 10:34 AM   #29
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but takes a lot longer because the cold transmission casing is acting like a heat sink on the engine.
In my case it takes about 5 minutes. Hardly "a lot".

There's no coaxing it, it either wants to go in smoothly or it doesn't and results in a crunch - the transmission / shifter is as stiff as a board when cold and I hate how uncomfortable that feels, and need to be able to to shift into 2nd smoothly as I exit up a hill onto a busy downtown street.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:57 PM   #30
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Once the high idle drops, I start driving. But I don't take it above 3k rpms until it's at operating temp.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:43 PM   #31
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Doesn't work like that for me. I can't shift into 2nd when cold at all unless done forcefully. Gearbox goes tight and doesn't want to sync up at that temperature.
Then i would suggest you look into some lighter/better transmission lubricant. I think there is a thread on this so search, but Motul seems to ring a bell. Anyway, I did mine, and it made a significant difference. But, to be honest, even when on the original stuff, when cold, it would go into second with some gentle coaxing. There could be an issue with yours.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #32
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As most have stated I just wait until the car is around 1k RPMs. And take it easy for the first 5 min or so. The car has a cold nature.
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:19 PM   #33
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Then i would suggest you look into some lighter/better transmission lubricant. I think there is a thread on this so search, but Motul seems to ring a bell. Anyway, I did mine, and it made a significant difference. But, to be honest, even when on the original stuff, when cold, it would go into second with some gentle coaxing. There could be an issue with yours.
I find a firm and deliberate shift out of first and then equally firm and deliberate shift into second works for me. Triple cone synchros are very robust.

The transmission warms up quickly, even at minus 20C and lower.
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:20 PM   #34
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Doesn't work like that for me. I can't shift into 2nd when cold at all unless done forcefully. Gearbox goes tight and doesn't want to sync up at that temperature.
Firm and forceful shifting is ok. Just don't rush the synchros. It's all in the slight pause in neutral. Once you find the right length of pause it should work for you.

Also I suspect this gearbox requires a lot of running in.
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #35
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A minute or two then off and easy does it for the first couple of miles
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:00 PM   #36
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  1. Clutch in
  2. Gas pedal to floor
  3. Turn ignition
  4. Engine starts, let go of ignition
  5. Engine hits rev limiter
  6. Keep foot on floor
  7. Drop clutch
  8. Keep foot on floor
  9. Keep going
  10. Keep foot on floor
(foot comes off floor for gear changes, stop signals, and pedestrians)
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:27 PM   #37
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Well, it's winter time and really cold up here in NE Ohio. I like to let my engine idle for a while on cold starts when possible. I have Torque Pro, so I usually load that up right after I turn my car on. 17 degree oil temperatures is not something I want to be adding load to or going above idle rpm's on.

I try to wait until the oil temp is at least 60 degrees F before driving, although the car feels much better at 80+ degrees F. I baby the car with light loads and I shift at or below 3k rpm's. At about 160 degrees F, I will push the car up to 4k rpm's at medium load, and I wait until the temps get to 185 degrees F before I'm willing to go WOT and redline. My car levels out at about 195-200 degrees F when fully warm, going up to about 210 degrees F during sustained 80-85 mph freeway driving (30+ minutes).

My car also shifts alot smoother when I let it idle for a while before driving. If I don't let it warm up enough, I grind going into 2nd gear from 1st, and it is impossible to downshift into second without double clutching + perfect rev matching. I can't even get it to go into 1st gear if it's too cold unless I come to a 100% complete stop (0 mph on the digital dash). Once she's warmed up though, she shifts beautifully.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:16 AM   #38
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I've noticed this car takes longer to warm up than my previous cars, quite noticeably. Maybe due to DI?

It's exacerbated with the cold weather - if you run the heat full blast pretty soon after startup it can take a really long time for the coolant to hit operating temps - and it will actually drop water temps if idling at a stop light. The engine will heat up a lot faster if you wait until the water temps get to operating temp before you start using heat.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:25 AM   #39
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30 seconds idle, minimum 10km of driving before ill take it over 2700RPM, best to have all fluids warmed up before doing anything fun
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:47 PM   #40
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I've noticed this car takes longer to warm up than my previous cars, quite noticeably. Maybe due to DI?

It's exacerbated with the cold weather - if you run the heat full blast pretty soon after startup it can take a really long time for the coolant to hit operating temps - and it will actually drop water temps if idling at a stop light. The engine will heat up a lot faster if you wait until the water temps get to operating temp before you start using heat.
Coolant hits operating temperature as the thermostat opens. The temperature gauge gives you that temperature to begin with. The normal effective range of operating temperature for the coolant is only around 20 degrees C. Minimum to open the thermostat is likely 89 C. Boiling point is likely around 140C. Winter or summer the upper part of the cylinders and the head will be running around 100 C regardless of outside temperature.

There is no need to "fully" warm up a street engine. Just avoid full throttle loads until the thermostat opens (coolant temp gauge moves off the peg) then you can let er rip.

There's definitely no reason to try and warm up the engine by idling it. Warm up is far quicker as you drive. Higher rpm and smaller throttle openings heat up the coolant more quickly.
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:39 PM   #41
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winter is around 15 mins

normal around 10
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:34 PM   #42
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................ Higher rpm and smaller throttle openings heat up the coolant more quickly.
DANG, Suberman ...... ya got me there ....

How do you get the engine to go faster with smaller throttle openings .... ??

(maybe I need a nap)

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