Strano Performance Parts 22mm Tubular front swaybar

[Kostamojen]

Installed mine last night. Love tge provement with handling!!!

However I am getting clucking during hard cornering, and I habe vibration now at freeway speeds that I'm not sure whats causing it... going to swap wheels to see if that fixes it.

[Kostamojen]

Ya, sometging is really really wrong with the car and I checked the tires they are fine...

I think the colars or possibly the endlinks might be causing it. I can't see anything physically wrong.

[Kostamojen]

Found a couple of the issues tonight.

The colars are indeed grinding when the bar rotates:



And right in the middle of the bar it was contacting a small imperfection on the aluminum steering rack so I grinded it down a touch:



I also found a spot where the bar might be contacting the frame above it but I'm not 100% on that yet.

I want to try smaller collars because I don't think these aluminum ones can be modified enough to work.

[G_Ride]

@Kostamojen, I haven't been to this thread for a while but I remember you're not the first person to have that issue. I think someone posted earlier in this thread about some smaller collars they ordered from amazon.

[Sam Strano]

Clunking it typically a loose endlink or the bar itself being loose on the... well what I'll call the "frame" of the car.

The collars are aluminum and you have to play around with the clocking of them a bit. The stock bracket that holds the bar bushing on the car isn't 100% symmetrical. The newer bars are wider from bend to bend. I wanted to not use collars (and you see why they can be a pain). But look at it, you might be able to run the collars on the outboard side and eliminate the issue. But honestly because the collars are aluminum, and you can easily see where they touched you have a pattern to use to knock the corner off the collar. As long as you don't get into the threads it's fine because there isn't any real load on the collars. Just there to keep it from walking around.

And another option is a spacer. A large flat washer with a 7/8" hole (to fit over the bar)... that then goes up against the bushing and the collar up against it, moving the collar away from the steel bracket.

I've been searching for collar clamps that work without any issue for anyone, all the time. But if you look at the them it's not like the things are huge to start with. They aren't wide, they aren't 3" across. The stock bar relies on the metal rings clamped on the bar to keep it from walking and that's just not feasible here.

I'm glad to hear you like how it drives. I truly believe for more that this is the right size front bar.

[qoncept]

I'm wondering if zip ties would work as replacements for the collars..

[Kostamojen]

I'm trying to grind down the aluminium colars but I've got to take a lot of material off to get them to clear the brackets.

Meanwhile I've been running without them and I see no evidence of walking so that's good.

However, the swaybar hitting the frame might be the bigger issue now....

[Kostamojen]

This is how much I've ground down the colars so far and they still hit the brackets a little...

[NYC BRZ]

After a full season with the bar I can say I like the feel but the bar still walks. I have one of the first batches so they might have adjusted it a bit since. It was really bad with stock links but aftermarket adjustable links (I'm using whiteline) helped a bit. Under full load it contacts the A arm. I think if the corners of the bar where the link is connected were rounded off it would help. I'm going to try collars next season to see if it eliminates the walking. I also bought slicks for the first time so that will change the feel entirely.

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[was385]

Just installed and ran my first event with the Strano front bar and I can say I am very impressed. It's paired with RCE Yellow Springs, 245 ZIIs, and maxed out OEM camber bolts. The cool part is that there is an FR-S who runs essentially the exact same setup (only difference is 1-2 LB heavier wheels) so we got to see the effects from the Strano bar very isolated.

By far the biggest benefit was in transitions and corner exits. The course that day had a small left-right kink to set up a slalom and the FR-S had the rear loose on that most of the time, while mine totally cut out any oversteer and allowed me to better set up for the slalom. The other big benefit was that the lack of oversteer allowed me to get on the power early and hard coming out of a turn without worrying about the back end stepping out.

I did have a bit of understeer early but was able to easily get the car to my liking by dropping the rear pressures a bit. So far I have not had any clunking, but I'll probably put the car up after a couple more events and check to make sure everything is going like it should.

As of right now, I would absolutely suggest this bar for an autox application.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by NYC BRZ

After a full season with the bar I can say I like the feel but the bar still walks. I have one of the first batches so they might have adjusted it a bit since. It was really bad with stock links but aftermarket adjustable links (I'm using whiteline) helped a bit. Under full load it contacts the A arm. I think if the corners of the bar where the link is connected were rounded off it would help. I'm going to try collars next season to see if it eliminates the walking. I also bought slicks for the first time so that will change the feel entirely.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

I replaced the collars with steel hose clamps, seemed to help but was ghetto. Still contacted the control arms on full lock. But at my track day when the bar contacted my over pipe I was done. Took it off and gave it away. Got tired of making excuses for it.

[Sccabrz192]

How in the world did a sway bar come in contact with the overpipe?

[SubiePig]

I am puzzled by this as well.

[BlaineWasHere]

With whiteline links mine touches nothing ever.