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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#29 |
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I would spend a few more Benjamin's and get a new one. The FRS is meant to be driven hard and put away wet. It's a sports car. I would assume any used FRS has been pushed to its limits... certified or not.
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#30 |
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Reni has a point... Most (if not all) new vehicles depreciate immediately after it is bought and driven off the lot...
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#31 | ||
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Bottom line is that the car still has basically its full warranty on it and is a discount. 1,000 miles is nothing, I'd take the discount anytime unless there was obvious abuse. Then again, I buy used (up to 100,000 mile) cars all the time, and have never owned a car that I put less than 150,000 miles on so I may not be the best person to listen to! (My last two DD went over 250,000 miles)
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Olivia 05/03/2012 - 01/06/2024. 231,146 glorious miles.
Visit my Owner's Journal where I wax philosophic on all things FR-S Post your 86 or see others in front of a(n) (in)famous landmark. What fits in your 86? Show us the "Junk In Your Trunk". |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dadhawk For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (12-12-2013) |
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#32 |
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Mileage isn't always the best tell...I've seen low mileage cars that clearly were never washed or the PO failed at trying to install mods correctly. Not to mention, you don't know if something is original to the low mileage car, for instance they could have swapped wheels with a friend who has 30k miles and those tires need replacing, or maybe they were learning to drive stick. For being so close to the price of a new one, are you REALLY saving that much? Plus if you buy new, most of the times your insurance will be cheaper because of a "new car" discount for something like the first 3 years, so factor that in too, ask your agent to quote you on new and used. If we were talking about the depreciation drop of a 5 year old Vette or Porsche, even certain pick-ups, then yeah it makes so much sense to look for used, but I just don't see it here.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to gily25 For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (12-12-2013) |
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#33 |
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Be patient and wait until after Xmas.
If the dealer still has the certified on the lot offer $20k flat. They will take it. If you cant get it for 20k then walk and wait to find another. Right now dealer has slight upper hand since they maybe feel like they will get someone wanting a Xmas present and will bite before the 25th. After the 25th time is running out before EOY and they pay taxes for it sitting there. They will be willing to knock more off the price just to cover the lost tax cost on it. I once did that with a brand new Ford Ranger. Walked onto the lot December 28 and offered 9.5K for a truck with a sticker of 15.9K. They told me no and I told them you have 15 of the exact same configuration on your lot and good luck. They sold me the truck for 9.9K. Best deal I ever made. Nothing down and a payment of less than $200 per month! |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to tennisfreak For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (12-12-2013) |
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#34 | |
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#35 |
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Lower mileage alone would make it worth it to me, the certified just adds to it. Always can attempt to get it lower as well
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#36 |
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#37 |
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Perhaps in strictly numeric terms, 1,000 miles is almost the same as a new car, and from a dealer's perspective, they might think it should be priced as such.
But out here in the real world, it might make a big difference depending on how the car was treated in those first few miles. Additionally I can say from experience it will also make a difference when I try to sell the car... a one-owner car I have owned since it rolled off the truck definitely gets better responses vs something with a dubious history. So yeah, even with very low miles, there is some risk to me to get a used car vs new, and unless I'm properly compensated for that risk, I'll walk away every time. |
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#38 | |
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