Advice on fender damage

[wbsrazzle]

Originally Posted by kakarot1657

hmm I don't know it kind of gives it that look that it ripped through the fabric of time and space and the paint just couldn't stay on the body because of the shear force of the cars awesome drifting power....

I mean it looks KIND of like racing accents..lol

[Diode Dynamics]

This...lol call it an excuse for an upgrade!

Nick C.

[AznBRZer]

Originally Posted by wbsrazzle

That is what he said, that it would be too difficult to do a touch up

Body shops don't seem to really be interested in fine precision work like this and would rather strip and paint a panel, which is why you need to find a reputable detailer that can do it right. The body shop probably gets a small kickback from the PDR guy anyways and that's something you could also have done with a detailer before the touch it up. Depending on how anal you are about the finish, a detailer can make it look good, but a paint job should ideally make it perfect.

As for need to take the panel off, which would mean they need to literally cut it off because it's part of the frame, it sounds like bullshit and overkill that just doesn't need to be done for a job this small.

[dehydratedH2O]

This is definitely too much damage for a touch up. I *just* did the same thing to my WRX on my garage door track and it was about $750 to fix it, but there weren't any dents. Pearl paint ain't cheap, and it makes the labor costs go up quite a bit. If you're willing to drive, IAG or Columbia Auto Body are probably the best two paint shops in the greater DC area. I'd venture to say they can get you in a little cheaper than your other quote, too.

[djdnz]

A detailer cannot make it perfect. This is going to require a repaint, 1k at least! I would put touch up on it asap unless you are getting it fixed right away.

[Enraged21]

can't sand that out and then re paint?

[jeebus]

The amount quoted sounds about right for a nice job. Don't skimp out here unless you want your car to look like crap. Also, don't plastidip the whole car. It looks like garbage, wastes your time, and eventually has to be peeled off...wasting even more time.

[dehydratedH2O]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

can't sand that out and then re paint?

that's exactly what the quote is for. PDR, strip paint, and refinish.

[spitfire481]

I'd figure about $1k at my shop. Quarter glass needs to be cut out for paint then reinstalled. After the body work is done you will probably be blending the door for proper color match as well. Depends on how far the primer gets towards the door after repair. Tail light, rear bumper, door handle, sail panel trim, door belt molding, mirror all need to be removed as well to do it right. I have already had two wrb brz's in the shop, the color isn't terrible but definitely should be blended out

[uEih]

Rocket bunny time or some kinda of wide body at least haha. Seriously with that quote you might as well if that's your style of course.

[Enraged21]

Originally Posted by dehydratedH2O

that's exactly what the quote is for. PDR, strip paint, and refinish.

wow that's a ridiculous price then

[dehydratedH2O]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

wow that's a ridiculous price then

it might be slightly high, but it's certainly in the ballpark for a good repair.

[Diode Dynamics]

Quality paint and bodywork costs decent money from my experiences. Sure you could easily find a shop that will charge you less, but how reputable is that shop? Are you willing to pay for inferior work in the end? Or just get it done right the first time and learn your lesson about hitting poles

I'd find a shop you trust and get an honest evaluation

Nick C.

[Trap63]

As I collaborate since several yeasr with Nero Corsa (Italy) bodywork, I must tell you that WRB is a special coat (3strate) and as Diode Dynamics said "Quality paint and bodywork costs decent money from my experiences" .
I re-paint all my BRZ after latest thunderstorm like it was on exit from Gunma...so I know very well it.
Yuo need:
a) primer on parts for preparation
b) tone base coat primer (dark grey)..

c) first coat (water emulsion) blue tone matt (this that you see in engine bay)
d) metallic base paint WRB (water emulsion)
e) clear gloss (solvent emulsion)

In my experiences, the big deal that bodywork can do is on e) clear gloss. Poor clear gloss produce lower quality and sometimes great earnings.

There are clear gloss (solvent base) from Eur 25/kgs up to Eur 300/kgs. Quality costs.
Remember that some PPG or Dupont paint for WRB are issued with 3 variants on metal and one for PU (bumpers and so on)....but a good work needs some "tone tests". Solar light receiver and light/paint analyzers cannot replicate the same tone. Humans do it better...