Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

if you're transfering weight properly (gently, evenly) it is in fact normal

Thanks! It felt almost too stable, such that I was wondering if EBD was stepping in. There was a tight downhill "corkscrew" where I thought for sure the rear end would come around under trail-braking, but it stayed put. Not at all what I was expecting. Felt completely benign. The nose just tucked in and that was that.

[BRZ NA]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

wanna see some sidewall wear? I'll post a pic of my left front from Sebring this past weekend, it looks like a full slick lol

Damn really?I thought -2.5 should be very decent camber for track already?

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by BRZ NA

Damn really?I thought -2.5 should be very decent camber for track already?

it'll help, no doubt, but i think it also depends on the tire itself (how stiff the sidewall is) along with pressures your running, the type of track, and how hard you are pushing the car.

I'm only running like -1.6 or so, and it is DEFINITELY not enough.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by uncivilised

hey mike,

thanks for the advice

here is a pic of the front left tire (now swapped to the rear) this tire shows the most outside wear.

Can you get me a pic facing the tire directly instead of at an angle? I can't accurately gauge the wear with the angle and flash. Thanks!

Also, can you get me 1 of each tire (and tell me which is which)?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

I had an instructor tell me to start experimenting with trail-braking yesterday. It made a nice difference getting the car to turn-in on some of the slower/medium speed corners. It felt very natural, so my instructor thought I might have already been doing it subconsciously to some extent I don't know.

What I found surprising was how planted the rear end felt. I was almost expecting the rear end to come around under medium trail-braking, but that didn't happen. Is that normal or are some part of the nannies/EBD still active even though VDC/TC is fully off?

Nannies are still on without the pedal dance.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BRZ NA

Damn really?I thought -2.5 should be very decent camber for track already?

It depends on the spring rates and how much roll the car is experiencing, as well as the model of the tire, the tire size vs rim size, etc.

However, as a rule of thumb, -3 is a good starting point for the front on a track car. Lower rates will need more camber, and vice versa.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Nannies are still on without the pedal dance.

Yeah I had a feeling that might be the case. How's the car under moderate trail-braking with the pedal dance?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Yeah I had a feeling that might be the case. How's the car under moderate trail-braking with the pedal dance?

It'll act like a normal car with the pedal dance. Without, it'll try to straighten itself.

[BRZ NA]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

it'll help, no doubt, but i think it also depends on the tire itself (how stiff the sidewall is) along with pressures your running, the type of track, and how hard you are pushing the car.

I'm only running like -1.6 or so, and it is DEFINITELY not enough.

Bone stock showing worn on the edge like the pic,but I m aiming for the rs3 and thinking of the size and camber need.So can't go too hard on the stock tires cause will end up sliding lol

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BRZ NA

Bone stock showing worn on the edge like the pic,but I m aiming for the rs3 and thinking of the size and camber need.So can't go too hard on the stock tires cause will end up sliding lol

Preventing sliding to maintain speed is a good skill to develop

I still need to work on that...

[Pokeguyjai]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Hubcentric RINGS:

No, but I don't use them, because they might get stuck on the hub, which means you're going to potentially have issues putting on another set of wheels later. Additionally, plastic ones may deform and/or melt onto the hub or rim.

They're nice for "centering" the wheel, and taking the stress off of the lug nuts when you're initially tightening them, but ultimately, the lug nuts are what hold the wheel on, as well as force the wheel to center.

If you want to get super technical, they are added unsprung rotational mass.

Mike,

I got a set of plastic hub rings when I got my TC105Ns. I asked if they would melt and was told that they would be OK.

Should I take them off before I do a HPDE?

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It'll act like a normal car with the pedal dance. Without, it'll try to straighten itself.

through brake control?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Pokeguyjai

Mike,

I got a set of plastic hub rings when I got my TC105Ns. I asked if they would melt and was told that they would be OK.

Should I take them off before I do a HPDE?

We don't run hubcentric rings at all. The lugnuts will force the rims to center automatically. If they're metal, they're fine, but I'd avoid plastic ones.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

through brake control?

Precisely