Official OpenFlash Tablet FA20 Tuning Tech Discussion Thread

[Fizz]

Originally Posted by Hanni_0176

and I may end up doing that in the next couple of days, for science...

If for science....log some before and after air temps at the hole where the snorkel attaches to the airbox. Then you'll know whether the snorkel makes any difference in pulling cooler air or otherwise

[RSH]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Better than giving hints, the map is released, I'll also post up dyno results comparing the Stg1 and Stg2 maps on the same car (equipped with EL header and overpipe).

EL? Aren't most people buying UEL? I assume this will still work effectively on a UEL header?

[tonylop33]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Correct. From our dyno testing, we saw no appreciable gains with replacing a clean stock filter with a clean new foam filter from Perrin. But repeatable gains when removing the snorkel completely. The advantage of going with a drop in panel is more of a long term thing I think. The aftermarket ones will see less less restriction as they accumulate dirt.

Shiv

Any thoughts on how something like the HKS snorkel might affect the airflow?





http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produc...uct/index.html

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Fizz

If for science....log some before and after air temps at the hole where the snorkel attaches to the airbox. Then you'll know whether the snorkel makes any difference in pulling cooler air or otherwise

It's been done, I did it and posted about it. If you sit in slow or still traffic the airbox becomes an oven. Makes driving a PITA until the temps drop, which requires 5-10 mins of spirited driving. I put my snorkel back in as a couple of HP wasn't worth the poor town drivability. The problem is that the airbox opening is directly above the radiator so heat radiates up into the box when air isn't moving about. If, however, you can find a way to block this like the HKS and other filters do with a plate, then it may not be so bad. This is a route I may take eventually. Maybe a cheap option of some foil to test is a possibility?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by fstlane

I would prefer to pull slightly cooler air from outside of the engine compartment but not at the expense of any performance gains.

See above, but I had the opposite experience. I'd guess Shiv does his dyno runs with the hood up, as there's no way you could repeat runs on the dyno and gain power with the hood closed. The box would heat soak badly if the car's not moving!

[jeebus]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

It's been done, I did it and posted about it. If you sit in slow or still traffic the airbox becomes an oven. Makes driving a PITA until the temps drop, which requires 5-10 mins of spirited driving. I put my snorkel back in as a couple of HP wasn't worth the poor town drivability. The problem is that the airbox opening is directly above the radiator so heat radiates up into the box when air isn't moving about. If, however, you can find a way to block this like the HKS and other filters do with a plate, then it may not be so bad. This is a route I may take eventually. Maybe a cheap option of some foil to test is a possibility?

Yes, I think there are a number of folks who have removed the snorkel and seen higher IAT and lower performance once heat soaked. Even though I'm sure it sounds a little meaner and makes a bit of power when cool, I don't think it would be worth doing.

[Hanni_0176]

Glad I checked back in on this. Guess I won't be removing it for science anymore. Thanks for the feedback guys.

[overlookedx]

I know there was discussion earlier about changing the cold start idle tables, did anyone do it successfully yet? I know this is the one thing my neighbors hate me for, but I'm hesitant to be the first one to try it.

My concern is that they originally put it there on purpose and changing it would reduce the longevity of the engine... it warms up faster that way right? Otherwise why would they do it.

[Td-d]

Originally Posted by overlookedx

I know there was discussion earlier about changing the cold start idle tables, did anyone do it successfully yet? I know this is the one thing my neighbors hate me for, but I'm hesitant to be the first one to try it.

My concern is that they originally put it there on purpose and changing it would reduce the longevity of the engine... it warms up faster that way right? Otherwise why would they do it.

Emissions, to warm up the cats quicker.

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by fstlane

I haven't decided if I should leave it completely off or chop it off after the first mount. I would prefer to pull slightly cooler air from outside of the engine compartment but not at the expense of any performance gains.

I love the combination of uel headers + snorkel delete. It sounds perfect! But I still wasn't too keen about the airbox intake exposed to the hot engine bay so I chopped it up.
I trimmed it so it extends just out of the engine bay but still near its widest point.



I also borrowed the wife's blow dryer and heated it up to reshaped the squashed end where it enters the airbox.

It turned out pretty well. Hopefully it will be a good comprimise of performance and sound.
Now if I can just find the link for that stage 2 map (hint)!

[RSH]

Originally Posted by overlookedx

I know there was discussion earlier about changing the cold start idle tables, did anyone do it successfully yet? I know this is the one thing my neighbors hate me for, but I'm hesitant to be the first one to try it.

My concern is that they originally put it there on purpose and changing it would reduce the longevity of the engine... it warms up faster that way right? Otherwise why would they do it.

I've never liked that on any car, it's counter to physics and what I have practiced for forty tears. I avoid even medium rpm's and minimize load (soft foot) until the oil (in my cars that have it) or water temp has at least moved off the peg, usually longer. I want es much expansion as possible before stressing the engine. I assume the manufacturers believe it is not harmful but that does not mean it's good.

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by RSH

I've never liked that on any car, it's counter to physics and what I have practiced for forty tears. I avoid even medium rpm's and minimize load (soft foot) until the oil (in my cars that have it) or water temp has at least moved off the peg, usually longer. I want es much expansion as possible before stressing the engine. I assume the manufacturers believe it is not harmful but that does not mean it's good.

1500rpm with no load isn't stressing your engine. The increased idle at cold start up is because a cold engine won't idle worth a damn at a lower rpm. I would guess idling at 650 cold would cause carbon deposits more detrimental than a small bump in engine speed.

[jeebus]

Originally Posted by qoncept

1500rpm with no load isn't stressing your engine. The increased idle at cold start up is because a cold engine won't idle worth a damn at a lower rpm. I would guess idling at 650 cold would cause carbon deposits more detrimental than a small bump in engine speed.

this.

It's not like these cars rev to the limiter at cold start. They just idle high enough to keep the car from stalling or running overly rough, and to help get the cats warmed up as well.

[overlookedx]

The thing is though, if I drive away immediately after starting the car it idles just fine. I know it's not a good thing to do, but I noticed that if I dont even give it a second to sit at the higher RPM, it'll just die down as soon as I start driving and idle normally. And the cats will warm up as I drive.