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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#71 | |
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#72 |
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I dunno, look at the Vortech SC price compared to the AVO Turbo kit, seems like its the SCs that are most expensive right now for this car
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#73 | |
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I think with this car there is a big difference between a 220hp Avo/Greddy base turbo kit and a 275-300 hp upgraded kit. In other boosted cars 75 hp isn't a huge difference but this car I think has a steep gradiant $/HP. But I'm optimistic that a modest 220ish hp FI kit doesn't require many other upgrades for reliability. And really the way Toyota rates this engine, 225 whp would be ~300hp in the sales brochure, that's a significant upgrade and plenty for the street.
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#74 | |
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#75 |
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I am curious if there is a decent amount of interest in a Twin Screw/Roots Style/Positive Displacement style supercharger from a reputable company. I know there are some options out there already but this quote caught my attention.
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#76 |
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Not sure how many people are interested in twin screws, but I know I'd be interested in seeing more than one company developing a twin scroll turbo kit.
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#77 |
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That guy was banned for being a troller..
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#78 | |
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![]() Sadly this is one of the most erroneous posts I have ever had to read, Are you claiming your product overcomes the second law of thermal dynamics? Heat is generated in any compression of fluid. I can tell you for certain (without a product to misrepresent for profit) that your compressor is not drastically more efficient than garrett's compressor impellers are. Since you seem to have forgotten that you supply an intercooler with your kit for this car, and numerous dynos have shown greater power at the same boost on turbo setups. You start off trying to bash turbos for their efficiency, then bait and switch to bashing PD blowers, do you think FT86club members are that stupid or have you drank too much of your own Kool-Aid. I would appreciate if you clarified your BS so that the rest of the world doesn't have to spend years re-educating the BS out of people who felt "informed" after reading your misconceptions. A well sized non-china turbo will always be more efficient than your S/C's, Your product has merits, packaging, ease of install, less lowend torque (when that is desirable) but there is a reason people claim consistently that it has all the drawbacks of a turbo, and all the drawbacks of a PD S/C...because it is true...when was the last time you told someone turning your effortless S/C how much faster it had to be spun to create the same net flow as a PD S/C...that's rhetorical, i would never expect you to point out that it spins so easy because they aren't actually compressing air at hand turn speeds...unlike a PD S/C thanks for the laugh, |
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#79 | |
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Some very rough numbers: Turbo + Tuning: 5-7k Clutch: 0.5k Cooling: 0.7-1k Brakes: 2k Now this is the absolute barebones you could run and not even taking into account possible labor for people that are not as hands on. That means stock exhaust with added backpressure on the turbo, no gauges to watch anything, stock suspension which would be far from ideal at speeds the turbo could achieve and no aero to further add to the difficulty at higher speeds (all of which an NA car could use too, but there is easily a 10k difference all said and done). Do you need brakes? You definitely do with the added power, you could probably get away with dedicated pads and rebuild the calipers every other season on NA. Also with additional heat and speed you will simply wear parts out faster, consumables will go up and maintenance will at least double. Its different for a privateer with no shop backing and that also wants to drive his car. Not to mention the car WILL need sorting time and you WILL run into problems that will require additional $$$, modification and downtime. VCMC Turbo FRS is local to me and I assure you it was not just plug and play, they had their share of problems, sorting and we are talking about $$$, shop backing and talented experienced guys. Its not like that car was tuned to the ragged edge either. For the street? Sure, I'd say get it tuned and have a blast. But don't tell me you can get away with the same set up and run 8 trackdays every summer for 20 minute sessions, thats an unrealistic expectation. S2k guys (which you are familiar with I believe) have been boosting TT cars for years and still have constant problems for the fast guys at track. The ones who don't have dropped megacubic dollars in them and still refresh motors. Track + aftermarket FI = $$$$, that is all I have been trying to convey. |
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#80 | |
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU4Sa3RCCV4"]Willow Springs International Raceway BRZ/FRS/GT86 lap record 1:30.778 - YouTube[/ame] An effective FI solution for this car, assuming you're not looking for asinine power levels, would be a kit, tuning solution, tune, cooling, and brake ducts. It's the lowest up-front cost, although not the lowest long-term cost. You don't need an exhaust, etc. Better yet, you can further reduce your costs by getting a kit that comes WITH a proper tune (yes they're coming). CSG has two FI S2ks, one of which is running on the STOCK exhaust, and neither has had any of the issues the FI S2ks claim to have. I can assure you we're pushing the cars. Oh, and ALL of these cars, including Ted's BRZ in the video above, are tuned to run on CA 91 octane. |
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#81 | |
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I agree that an exhaust is not needed. However I disagree that you can get away with just brake ducts, on any fast track an experienced driver will cook the stock fronts even with race pads (due to the added power). Also you will need a clutch. And you will eventually run into problems due to the heat, higher heat thermal cycling will wear parts out, as will the additional torque. Again, boost and track is expensive no way about it. Nothing wrong with it either. Casual track rats may get away with less. IMO if you want to develop yourself as a driver power is not required at all, not to mention a properly set up car on coils and stock power will be just as fast or faster then boosted car with most of the $$ tied up in the engine. The same car will also be more reliable and use less consumables at the expense of torque thrills. You will benefit much more with analyzing data acquisition data then pouring over Ecutek logs. If budget is not in the question then go ahead and boost but be realistic about it, s'all. |
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#82 | |
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The Jackson Racing supercharger was tested on multiple cars, and they were all purposely left 100% stock EXCEPT for the kit (and brake pads + tires). 2:01 at Buttonwillow 13CW with nothing but that is a pretty friggin fast lap; Oscar Jackson Jr. is no slouch when it comes to driving. CSG_David's car is another example. If you're looking strictly at power and supporting mods, he's using a bolt-on Rotrex supercharger kit, with ZERO additional cooling mods, and ZERO additional supporting mods (exhaust, stronger tranmission, differential, etc.). The S2k uses Civic sized brakes, while the FR-S/BRZ uses WRX sized brakes. There are ZERO brake mods on his car. We've pushed his car hard, with ZERO issues. We do, however, have an aftermarket tune, because we wanted MORE power than the bolt-on levels. David's car makes 385hp. Yes, it's on the stock exhaust piping, stock header, etc.; the car sounds and looks like a stock S2000 CR. A lot of this has to do with picking the properly FI for a given application, and on the S2ks, we specifically chose our setups based on the fact that the cars WILL see track time, and they WILL be running for 20+ minutes of sustained WOT. This is precisely why we've chosen the direction of our BRZ's FI for 2014. ![]() Last edited by CSG Mike; 10-16-2013 at 10:22 AM. |
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#83 | ||
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Sprintex/Cusco/Bullet/Innovate are plenty reputable. The person who made the comment @Team STILLEN responded to was a trolled and banned as such. |
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