The Watch Thread

[mike the snake]

I love my Orange Monster!

Originally Posted by fatoni

my seiko orange monster has been my workhorse for years. i would have to say that its probably the best watch value out there

[7thgear]

hey everyone, another question

my brother-in-law gave me this watch at my wedding. Which his father (my father-in-law) gave him, but i kinda get a feeling that my father-in-law got it as part of some back-end business deal because neither of them ever wear watches....

so where does this rank in the grand scope of watches?

it is the "automatic" , FC-303MC3P6B

http://www.frederique-constant.com/e...7/fc-303mc3p6b

[AsianStyle]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

hey everyone, another question

my brother-in-law gave me this watch at our wedding. Which his father (my father-in-law) gave him, but i kinda get a feeling that my father-in-law got it as part of some back-end business deal because neither of them ever wear watches....

so where does this rank in the grand scope of watches?

it is the "automatic" , FC-303MC3P6B

http://www.frederique-constant.com/e...7/fc-303mc3p6b

I don't know much about the brand, but they seem to be a relative new company starting in 1988. They actually seem to sell some high-end movements, but it seems the FC-303 Calibre uses the old ETA 2824. A standard ETA movement. I would say its probably a decent intro. luxury watch.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

hey everyone, another question

my brother-in-law gave me this watch at my wedding. Which his father (my father-in-law) gave him, but i kinda get a feeling that my father-in-law got it as part of some back-end business deal because neither of them ever wear watches....

so where does this rank in the grand scope of watches?

it is the "automatic" , FC-303MC3P6B

http://www.frederique-constant.com/e...7/fc-303mc3p6b

Originally Posted by AsianStyle

I don't know much about the brand, but they seem to be a relative new company starting in 1988. They actually seem to sell some high-end movements, but it seems the FC-303 Calibre uses the old ETA 2824. A standard ETA movement. I would say its probably a decent intro. luxury watch.

I think FC movements are considered 'in house'.

It's a promising up and coming brand, but since they don't have history and/or don't all cost a zillion dollars and/or don't make too many crazy styles they kind of fly under the radar.

They do make their own movements, though. This gets into what 'in house movement' actually means. It means they make a majority percentage of the parts, but not necessarily a majority of the design and engineering. With the exception of the big players like Seiko, Rolex, Patek Phillipe and Citizen and technical specialists like JLC and Minerva, most 'in house' movements are mildly tweaked and nicely decorated off-patent movements. NOMOS is a Peseux 7001, Muehle Glashutte' MU9408 is a reworked VJ7750, TAG used a (pretty spectacular) Seiko chrono base and I'll assume that the FC being ETA-based is correct.

Still quite a step up from just buying in bulk or ordering from private label manufacturers, and gives experience and capacity for fully scratch development in the future.


TLDR: Thumbs up for Frederique Constant.

[7thgear]

nice, baller status.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

nice, baller status.

Needs to be recognised by the average idiot to be baller. Heh...


Nice looking, classy watch.

[AsianStyle]

Originally Posted by Dimman

I think FC movements are considered 'in house'.

It's a promising up and coming brand, but since they don't have history and/or don't all cost a zillion dollars and/or don't make too many crazy styles they kind of fly under the radar.

They do make their own movements, though. This gets into what 'in house movement' actually means. It means they make a majority percentage of the parts, but not necessarily a majority of the design and engineering. With the exception of the big players like Seiko, Rolex, Patek Phillipe and Citizen and technical specialists like JLC and Minerva, most 'in house' movements are mildly tweaked and nicely decorated off-patent movements. NOMOS is a Peseux 7001, Muehle Glashutte' MU9408 is a reworked VJ7750, TAG used a (pretty spectacular) Seiko chrono base and I'll assume that the FC being ETA-based is correct.

Still quite a step up from just buying in bulk or ordering from private label manufacturers, and gives experience and capacity for fully scratch development in the future.


TLDR: Thumbs up for Frederique Constant.

I'm actually in the camp that believes, if the movement has a base movement be it ETA, vj7750, seiko, etc... it is not an in-house. Maybe that's why you were surprised by my in-house movement cost numbers. I actually don't even think Omegas co-axial makes their PO watches in-house either.

I will say those modifications and changes to the movements make the watch more valuable and warrant the higher price tag, but I think there is a definite step above those watches that really represent an in-house movement.

As a side note I don't automatically think in-house movement > ETA. I understand the price will most likely be higher, but articles like this makes you wonder are they justified: http://www.chronometrie.com/rolex3135/rolex3135.html

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by AsianStyle

I'm actually in the camp that believes, if the movement has a base movement be it ETA, vj7750, seiko, etc... it is not an in-house. Maybe that's why you were surprised by my in-house movement cost numbers. I actually don't even think Omegas co-axial makes their PO watches in-house either.

I will say those modifications and changes to the movements make the watch more valuable and warrant the higher price tag, but I think there is a definite step above those watches that really represent an in-house movement.

As a side note I don't automatically think in-house movement > ETA. I understand the price will most likely be higher, but articles like this makes you wonder are they justified: http://www.chronometrie.com/rolex3135/rolex3135.html

Agree, that is sort of what I was getting at. 'In house' is thrown around a bit too liberally when justifying cost. But for companies like NOMOS and Frederique Constant it is still a very significant step up and in the right direction.

With the 'Omega'/ETA (purchased IP from George Daniels) Coaxial what I think we will see from Swatch (and have pretty much already seen in Richemont) is 'proprietary' movements. The brands don't design or make the movements, but have exclusive use of them.

It's JLC that got A.Lange & Sohn up, and probably Panerai as well. Minerva is exclusive to Mont Blanc. But all Richemont in the end.

Swatch is starting to do the same, starting with the Coaxial for Omega, and some 80hr power reserve only for Tissot (I think). All ETA, but each Swatch brand will (maybe) eventually have unique movements.

[Vracer111]

I think I found the inexpensive beater watch I've always wanted: Bertucci A-2R

Though I wouldn't mind spending a little more and going with the Bertucci A-2T

Really like the case aesthetics and a strong design which doesn't use spring pins to hold in the nato style straps...the bars that the straps thread through are a machined part of the case:

http://www.bertucciwatches.com/Bertucci/durability.html

[AznBRZer]

Originally Posted by Vracer111

Really like the case aesthetics and a strong design which doesn't use spring pins to hold in the nato style straps...the bars that the straps thread through are a machined part of the case:

This is a solution to a problem that I'm unreasonably paranoid about and part of the reason I wear a NATO strap to begin with, other than it looking cool...haha.

For those that don't know, straps and bracelets are basically held to the case with 2 1mm hollow pieces of steel to support a watch worth a few grand. If one of those spring bars go, your watch could be toast when it hits the ground, from which NATO's and Zulus give me some piece of mind because they'll still hold the watch if one of the bars fail.

I don't think this feature will ever be widespread, but it certainly makes the most sense if you have a very active lifestyle that can jack up your watch.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by AznBRZer

This is a solution to a problem that I'm unreasonably paranoid about and part of the reason I wear a NATO strap to begin with, other than it looking cool...haha.

For those that don't know, straps and bracelets are basically held to the case with 2 1mm hollow pieces of steel to support a watch worth a few grand. If one of those spring bars go, your watch could be toast when it hits the ground, from which NATO's and Zulus give me some piece of mind because they'll still hold the watch if one of the bars fail.

I don't think this feature will ever be widespread, but it certainly makes the most sense if you have a very active lifestyle that can jack up your watch.

This is why man invented the almighty G-Shock.

As much as I am enamoured with mechanical watches, I believe there should be a G-Shock (or Proteck, also maybe 2 or 3 or 5) in every watch collection.

[mush]

2 of many, i think i have 6 g-shocks in total

[Dimman]

So I went to a watchmaker I've brought stuff to before to ask for advice on what to look out for and potential service cost on a mid 1950's annual calendar with moon phase, by an extinct brand; a similar era Zenith, and a similar era Patek Phillipe Caltrava calibre 400-12". Showed the woman at the desk a pic from my phone (Galaxy Nexus, big screen) zoomed in to about 2x scale. Was kind of (ok, a lot since I'm posting about it) amused when she screwed a loupe into her eye to look at the pic, rather than just zooming in more.

They gave me some rough estimates on the first two, but told me they don't do Patek. Have to send it back to Geneva. They said it would probably be around $2k minimum for the service depending on condition, plus an 8 month turn around.

Wow. Have to pay to play, I guess...

But given the price of the PP, it may almost be worth it.

[Dimman]

Just got my Seiko automatic chronograph back from the watchmaker. New crystal, date wheel fixed, ~+1 minute/week.

1972. Older than I am. Older than most people on the board.

Pics are the touristy area, downtown Vancouver.