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Old 09-26-2013, 02:42 AM   #29
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To note on KWs when adjusting firmer you need to go all way firm then back down to your setting. You can only click down for difference one at time for more compression or damping you need to go full stuff then back down to your number you want.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:00 PM   #30
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I will got my KW V3 next week, and I think Im gonna trust RCE and run his recommend damper setting. These guys are professional.

I hav 225/40R18 square setup, 18X8.5 +44 rims.

Might drop about 1 inch f&r, and run -2 f and-1.5(or 1) r camber with whiteline camber bolt and cusco LCA.

front and rear tire pressure 35 now, and a front strut bar(which may not matter).

I will try this setting first and let others know the feeling.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #31
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I started at KW recommended settings. I don't know the exact click number but I remember going down on rear compression, up on front compression, down on front rebound, up on rear rebound. No two cars are ever going to have the same settings work for them optimumlly. Tires, alignment, weight will all effect the end result unless you are just worried about feel or comfort. As stated, you are supposed to go to full stiff and back down to the setting you want when you make changes. KW also recommends that you reset them every once and a while but I have never seen a general time frame.

The first half of this obliviously isn't relevant to the KW's but the reference for changes based off how the car is driving still apply.
http://www.vorshlag.com/documents/Tuning_AST_Shocks.pdf
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:44 AM   #32
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Figo and gang,

I know Figo you were considering rsr. I've been on a few rides while they're good I feel the KWs handle large bumps overall better so you will not be disappointed cause I'm the pickiest person I know.

Finally got mine on and tested. I'm veared off default slightly but the ride is fantastic to say least. I came from eibach pros and in every single way the ride is more comfortable and predictable overall. I'm also using Stance LCAs in rear to gain stroke and Vorshlagg plates up front. Zero noise, clunk or issues thus far.

So that I'm giving back to community here are my settings that so far I'm pleased with. In fact not sure ill touch em anymore.

My current alignment is -2 all way around zero toe. Next alignment I'm going to bring rear into -1.5 to -1.7 I think to balance out some understeer. My height is approx 1.250" lower all around.

I have WL bushings in ass end as well. No nvh or such noticeable things.

Note*

Bump/Damping (Bottom) range is 12 clicks

Rebound (TOP) range is 18 clicks

Current Settings:

Rear Top Rebound =7 open
Rear bottom Damp\Comp =8 open

Front Top Rebound =10 open
Front bottom Damp\Comp=7 open

Factory Default:
Front: rebound (top) 9 open
Rear: rebound (top) 9 open

Front: Bump/Damp Bottom 6 open
Rear: Bump/Damp Bottom 6 open
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:21 AM   #33
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Thank you so much.

My KW V3 is Out For Delivery by UPS now. Its needs signature confirmation but Im not at home. So hopefully my roommate can sign it for me.

Just cant wait to see it.

BTW, do you actually need top mount to reach -2 front camber? I thought V3 had slotted upper hole which allowed some adjustment. Do you know how many negative camber I can go without top mount?

I also have whiteline camber bolt, hope those will help to reach more negative camber...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
Figo and gang,

I know Figo you were considering rsr. I've been on a few rides while they're good I feel the KWs handle large bumps overall better so you will not be disappointed cause I'm the pickiest person I know.

Finally got mine on and tested. I'm veared off default slightly but the ride is fantastic to say least. I came from eibach pros and in every single way the ride is more comfortable and predictable overall. I'm also using Stance LCAs in rear to gain stroke and Vorshlagg plates up front. Zero noise, clunk or issues thus far.

So that I'm giving back to community here are my settings that so far I'm pleased with. In fact not sure ill touch em anymore.

My current alignment is -2 all way around zero toe. Next alignment I'm going to bring rear into -1.5 to -1.7 I think to balance out some understeer. My height is approx 1.250" lower all around.

I have WL bushings in ass end as well. No nvh or such noticeable things.

Note*

Bump/Damping (Bottom) range is 12 clicks

Rebound (TOP) range is 18 clicks

Current Settings:

Rear Top Rebound =7 open
Rear bottom Damp\Comp =8 open

Front Top Rebound =10 open
Front bottom Damp\Comp=7 open

Factory Default:
Front: rebound (top) 9 open
Rear: rebound (top) 9 open

Front: Bump/Damp Bottom 6 open
Rear: Bump/Damp Bottom 6 open
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Figo View Post
Thank you so much.

My KW V3 is Out For Delivery by UPS now. Its needs signature confirmation but Im not at home. So hopefully my roommate can sign it for me.

Just cant wait to see it.

BTW, do you actually need top mount to reach -2 front camber? I thought V3 had slotted upper hole which allowed some adjustment. Do you know how many negative camber I can go without top mount?

I also have whiteline camber bolt, hope those will help to reach more negative camber...
KWs are slotted on bottom so should be no issue getting to at least -2 but I'm not 100% on that as I had plates from start. ..and I doubt you'll need the WL bolts either. Your alignment guy will know right away on that part. I wouldn't sweat it.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:50 PM   #35
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lol
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:52 PM   #36
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SLotted on the bottom?
cool.
i might check to c whether i need camber bolt or not.

thx.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
KWs are slotted on bottom so should be no issue getting to at least -2 but I'm not 100% on that as I had plates from start. ..and I doubt you'll need the WL bolts either. Your alignment guy will know right away on that part. I wouldn't sweat it.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:16 PM   #37
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Yes there is a slotted section in bottom it's your "bulk/raw" adjustment. There's lots of room there to move so I'm certain you'll get desired - for sure. It'll just take awhile for alignment guy to get both close due to process and how much it changes with that method is all.

Make sure to read manual and become familiar with adjustments and also be very sure on height you want to be at b4 alignment process begins as well.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:21 PM   #38
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Iv heard that KW V3 (or maybe all coilovers) has height settle issue. Is it that bad?
Somebody told me that he drop 1'' and wait for 1 more week before doing alignment because the height settled to 1.5'' drop after that. And he had to raise it back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
Yes there is a slotted section in bottom it's your "bulk/raw" adjustment. There's lots of room there to move so I'm certain you'll get desired - for sure. It'll just take awhile for alignment guy to get both close due to process and how much it changes with that method is all.

Make sure to read manual and become familiar with adjustments and also be very sure on height you want to be at b4 alignment process begins as well.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Figo View Post
Iv heard that KW V3 (or maybe all coilovers) has height settle issue. Is it that bad?
Somebody told me that he drop 1'' and wait for 1 more week before doing alignment because the height settled to 1.5'' drop after that. And he had to raise it back.
I think that varies but yes some settling is going to occur so set to a slightly higher height to start. I know many here suggest driving for awhile prior to alignment but I'd only agree with that if your rough alignment is pretty damned good. I say that as driving this car with no alignment is not only not fun but can be a scary scenario as it's very sensitive especially to toe.

So my advice is get the install and adjust to slightly higher then you feel happy with and if need be then you can re adjust and re align later. That's my two bits on that. After driving mine for only an hr without alignment I would never try days on end without to be honest.
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #40
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lol thank you.

I will do it this weekend i think.

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Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
I think that varies but yes some settling is going to occur so set to a slightly higher height to start. I know many here suggest driving for awhile prior to alignment but I'd only agree with that if your rough alignment is pretty damned good. I say that as driving this car with no alignment is not only not fun but can be a scary scenario as it's very sensitive especially to toe.

So my advice is get the install and adjust to slightly higher then you feel happy with and if need be then you can re adjust and re align later. That's my two bits on that. After driving mine for only an hr without alignment I would never try days on end without to be honest.
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:57 PM   #41
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Quote:
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lol thank you.

I will do it this weekend i think.
From high end to low end suspension settles after install. Personally after going through doing this myself would install get rough heights done. Generic alignment drive for at least 3 days then set heights, corner balance, align.

Not allowing that settle time can really ruin all of that.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:04 AM   #42
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Quote:
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From high end to low end suspension settles after install. Personally after going through doing this myself would install get rough heights done. Generic alignment drive for at least 3 days then set heights, corner balance, align.

Not allowing that settle time can really ruin all of that.
thank u man.
will it be dangerous if i do not do alignment and drive it for days?
I just dont want to pay alignment twice. lol.
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I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car,
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Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book.

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