love tracking this car; brake calipers and wheel studs issues

[ayau]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

You can see it around my tie-rod in this picture. It's just heat reflective tape so it cut to fit your application.



I'm cheap.. I use the "aluminum foil tape" but you can also use tape like this, which is probably better but...

Mr. Gasket 6323 Inferno Shield Heat Reflective Tape : Amazon.com : Automotive

It is basically the suspension parts with the rubber joints that should be taped?

[trackjunkie]

The rotors, studs and open end lug nuts arrived. Can't wait for the air ducting...

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by ayau

It is basically the suspension parts with the rubber joints that should be taped?

The boots on the ball joints.

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Looks like you're doing everything right.

ARP: Check
Open lugs: Check
Brake ducting: Check
High temp fluid: Check


Some other ideas that might improve the longevity of some items:

1: put a little anti-seize on the wheel studs. It helps if you need to take the lugs off when things are really hot.
2: Wrap your ball joints/tie-rod joints in heat reflective tape so the heat from the brakes doesn't destroy the grease in them or destroy the boots around them.
3: Titanium backing plates can help as a thermal barrier between the inside brake pad and the pistons which can go a long way to keeping those dust boots in your calipers in tact.
4: HP PLUS!? I would definitely recommend a race pad considering your time on track and tire choice. Porterfield R4, Hawk DTC-70, Raybestos ST43 or 45. etc etc. Changing pads at the track requires a 14mm wrench and 5 minutes of your time... Might as well.

http://porterfield-brakes.com/index.php

Second this!!

With the ti-shims and TF Brake Cooling kit, I'm still on the stock front rotors that are in decent shape, running DTC-60s with life still in them, after 5 full track days (2 at Barber, 3 at Sebring). Ti-shims definitely saved my dust boots, they look like new still.

I have a write-up on the install of the TF Brake Cooling kit if you haven't checked it out yet.

Wrapped joints in heat tape and pics of the ti-shims below.

[forwallblakmail]

Originally Posted by trackjunkie

The rotors, studs and open end lug nuts arrived. Can't wait for the air ducting...

We have the same studs, lugs, and rotors.

Identical.
Fascinating.

[Stevo22]

Originally Posted by trackjunkie

The rotors, studs and open end lug nuts arrived. Can't wait for the air ducting...

Are those lugs supposed to be used with the OEM wheel? Total noob here but I thought most aftermarket lugs have a different seat type. My impression was that the OEM was ball type and aftermarket are the acorn type and using the acorn type on an OEM wheel can damage the lug.

Reference Picture:

[xwd]

Subarus (and the FRS) use acorn seats.

[DarkSunrise]

Some good information on this thread. Love tracking with this car too.

[448hpsti]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Looks like you're doing everything right.

ARP: Check
Open lugs: Check
Brake ducting: Check
High temp fluid: Check


Some other ideas that might improve the longevity of some items:

1: put a little anti-seize on the wheel studs. It helps if you need to take the lugs off when things are really hot.
2: Wrap your ball joints/tie-rod joints in heat reflective tape so the heat from the brakes doesn't destroy the grease in them or destroy the boots around them.
3: Titanium backing plates can help as a thermal barrier between the inside brake pad and the pistons which can go a long way to keeping those dust boots in your calipers in tact.
4: HP PLUS!? I would definitely recommend a race pad considering your time on track and tire choice. Porterfield R4, Hawk DTC-70, Raybestos ST43 or 45. etc etc. Changing pads at the track requires a 14mm wrench and 5 minutes of your time... Might as well.

http://porterfield-brakes.com/index.php

The anti seize I use goes on the back of the wheel, against the rotor. I dunno, lube on lug and my driving style would sit in the back of my head all wrong I think, unless you tell me the carrier for the copper in the anti seize is not a petroleum base
Otherwise,
I agree with 2 3 &4 spot on

But I track hard
Don't have arp
Don't have open lug

Take a brass tooth brush from your tool box to the threads, make sure they are clean and be sure the rotor isn't rusting where the wheel contacts. I never have issues with lugs getting stuck, and i am anti impact pro tq wrench on lugs, most folk over tighten, I had a shop wind mine up to 100....


Now manifold, exhaust bolts, those get anti seize.

Failing at brakes so far and have yet to go pay Essex my wad.
My brakes aren't ducted, and they suck. So maybe you're onto something there! I just am not sure adding ducting will give me the thermal capacity I need, in the same physical volume of pad and rotor. I have only tried a ds2500 in stock size, are any of you convinced these setup plus track specific pads offer enough stop to not want a unrated brake kit for an Fi car?

I am on r comps with oe studs and steel lugs, no issue, do you guys think I should be worried about catastrophic failure of all five studs since I drive like an idiot on oe studs?

And yes, factory brake fluid in these cars is horse piss

[ZionsWrath]

Curious why you haven't got an aftermarket brake kit? Are you running in a class that prohibits it?

[448hpsti]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Curious why you haven't got an aftermarket brake kit? Are you running in a class that prohibits it?

No, just money, been doing all sorts of other shit with my time and coin summer here is too hot to track, now I'm looking at the dates and realizing I need to go bust out the coin for either ducts and pads or just bite bullet and drop a dollar amount with a comma etc like originally planned, rice's post was interesting to read

I don't have anything competitive planned, tho that may change, I'm just happy beating my last times, renting a transponder etc. theres a group by me that does a bunch of autox but I have yet to go out and play with others in a modified class, if that's what you were asking, it will happen in time.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by 448hpsti

No, just money, been doing all sorts of other shit with my time and coin summer here is too hot to track, now I'm looking at the dates and realizing I need to go bust out the coin for either ducts and pads or just bite bullet and drop a dollar amount with a comma etc like originally planned, rice's post was interesting to read

I don't have anything competitive planned, tho that may change, I'm just happy beating my last times, renting a transponder etc. theres a group by me that does a bunch of autox but I have yet to go out and play with others in a modified class, if that's what you were asking, it will happen in time.

Anything you do on the stock braking system is pretty much a waste. Doing pads and brake fluid is about as good as you can get. Only way to really cool them more is to run ducts but when you swap to AP kit it will overcool them so think about that.

Tried using DBA 4000 AND XP10 and it was bettet but still threw away 500$!
If you are crunched for now maybe get some blanks for front xp10 or xp12 bed the hell out of them. Swap fluid and just kill the rotors and swap every couple events for now.

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Anything you do on the stock braking system is pretty much a waste. Doing pads and brake fluid is about as good as you can get. Only way to really cool them more is to run ducts but when you swap to AP kit it will overcool them so think about that.

Tried using DBA 4000 AND XP10 and it was bettet but still threw away 500$!
If you are crunched for now maybe get some blanks for front xp10 or xp12 bed the hell out of them. Swap fluid and just kill the rotors and swap every couple events for now.

I was considering the DBA rotors, but honestly, after 5 very hard days at Sebring and Barber, the OEM rotors are still holding up fine. Normal heat checking, but nothing that is of concern. I have a set of blanks ready to go, but am going to run these OEM rotors to see how far I can go with them.

I've been running the TF Brake Cooling kit and ti-shims since I started tracking, and I think they help contribute to extending the pad and rotor life. I know two guys whos OEM rotors were trashed after a day or two at Sebring.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by trackjunkie

It seems that the front brakes were not really designed to take the heat of constant hard braking. But that is a minor complaint; this car is just awesome at the track!

I've had ripped dust boots on my S2000 since my first track day... you won't have any issues unless you live in an area where they salt the roads.