No squeal pads for AP Racing Essex Sprint Kit

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Paragon

hi do you know the heatrange for these pads?

800F/426C. They can handle a bit more heat than most street pads

The AX6 is also silent, and is rated for 1100F/600C.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

800F/426C. They can handle a bit more heat than most street pads

The AX6 is also silent, and is rated for 1100F/600C.

AX6 definitely not silent for street driving. I know. I have them.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We use Carbotech 1521 for strictly street duty with our sprint kit. They'll make zero noise. Send me a PM to order.

Aka Bobcats. The least aggressive of the good street compounds out there. The AX6 is the next step up. The issue of the transfer layer remains...it's important. I'd suggest a highway sprint at night with multiple abusive stops to 5mph, should be manageable.

[Skorov]

I'm running Hawk HPS and they're great. Just apply the grease that comes with the pads and you won't hear a thing.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

AX6 definitely not silent for street driving. I know. I have them.

Every case I've seen with AX6's making noise is because the AX6's were cooked. Although they can handle more heat than a "normal" street pad, they still fade quickly when faced with canyons, track time, or repeated hard braking in general.

Have yours been used for anything more than street driving?

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Every case I've seen with AX6's making noise is because the AX6's were cooked. Although they can handle more heat than a "normal" street pad, they still fade quickly when faced with canyons, track time, or repeated hard braking in general.

Have yours been used for anything more than street driving?

I used them for street driving for a week, which they squealed constantly. I bed them in but they started squeaking shortly after. I then took them to the track for HPDE. They squealed there too. Had to put on the stock pads after the track day was over because I couldn't handle the squealing. The only time it didn't squeal is when I was stopping from a slightly higher speed, like when breaking at a yellow light, until the speed was lower then it would squeal again.

I also forgot to wipe off the brake pad dust after a track day. I think I waited a couple days and the brake dust was baked into the wheel paint so now my wheels are a little ruined. I have yet to try some of the extra strong cleaner. Supposedly masonry cleaner does the trick.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I used them for street driving for a week, which they squealed constantly. I bed them in but they started squeaking shortly after. I then took them to the track for HPDE. They squealed there too. Had to put on the stock pads after the track day was over because I couldn't handle the squealing. The only time it didn't squeal is when I was stopping from a slightly higher speed, like when breaking at a yellow light, until the speed was lower then it would squeal again.

I also forgot to wipe off the brake pad dust after a track day. I think I waited a couple days and the brake dust was baked into the wheel paint so now my wheels are a little ruined. I have yet to try some of the extra strong cleaner. Supposedly masonry cleaner does the trick.

Something doesn't sound right.

The brake dust will never bake onto the wheel unless you're racing in the rain. Water and ultra high temps (far higher than the AX6 is capable of... think XP10 and higher) will bake them on (but it can still be scrubbed off). Carbotechs are specifically formulated to have non-corrosive brake dust.

Did you use shims and grease or just the pad only? Did you do enough driving to scrub off the old transfer layer and/or were you on fresh or freshly turned rotors?

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Something doesn't sound right.

The brake dust will never bake onto the wheel unless you're racing in the rain. Water and ultra high temps (far higher than the AX6 is capable of... think XP10 and higher) will bake them on (but it can still be scrubbed off). Carbotechs are specifically formulated to have non-corrosive brake dust.

Did you use shims and grease or just the pad only? Did you do enough driving to scrub off the old transfer layer and/or were you on fresh or freshly turned rotors?

No it wasn't raining or wet but i used water to try to clean them off a couple days later, plus a couple other mild cleaners I tried after water. Maybe I just need stronger cleaner of some sort. As I mentioned before someone said to try masonry cleaner, which is pretty toxic acidic stuff, which I'm a little weary of trying so if someone has a better idea I'm all ears as I'd like to get the black tint off my gold wheels.

The first time I put them on I forgot the shims, the 2nd time I used the shims. Did not grease them. The 2nd time it was just a little less squealy but still too annoying to keep the pads on. I'm no expert but I think the old transfer layer came off. The rotors were used and the same as what I've had on the car since purchase last year. As far as I could tell the transfer layer didn't want to stay on for very long after the track day and definitely didn't stay on when street driving. I'm pretty light on the brakes when street driving so they probably don't heat up at all.

Thanks for asking questions and trying to figure out what's going on.

[CSG Mike]

They should literally wipe off without any cleaner at all!

I'd suggest trying them with shims + brake grease (reuse OEM shims and buy a $1 packet of grease from autozone) on a fresh set of rotors or freshly turned rotors.

AX6 seriously should be silent; they're not race pads.

[Dezoris]

The 1521 carbotechs are very thick compared to the ds2500. Barely fit in the caliper with piston all the way in.

Upon bedding noticed rear abs was super sensitive. Hoping this will settle as pads wear a bit.
Notice my ap rotors are very unsmooth wavy to the touch after pulling the ds2500 off right off the bad the 1521s were squealing just as bad. Seem to be better after initial bedding which did not take much.

They heat up right away and fade fast.

[PSJohnDoe]

I've got Carbotech 1521 in front and rear, about 500 miles on them so far. I'm using the Essex AP Racing Sprint kit in the front and stock caliper/rotor in the back. I made an attempt at bedding the pads/rotors tonight by doing what CT recommends for these pads, hard braking from 60-30 4-6 times, driving a few minutes and then repeating the process a second time. I did 6 repetitions both times and then let it sit for 30 minutes until it was ambient temperature for pads, rotors, and calipers.

Seems to have made very minimal differences, so far. I should know more after the weekend since I'm going to GMR on Sunday.

On a side note, just thinking as I was writing this... is it possible to put the stock front caliper/rotor in the rear? Anyone done it?

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by PSJohnDoe

I've got Carbotech 1521 in front and rear, about 500 miles on them so far. I'm using the Essex AP Racing Sprint kit in the front and stock caliper/rotor in the back. I made an attempt at bedding the pads/rotors tonight by doing what CT recommends for these pads, hard braking from 60-30 4-6 times, driving a few minutes and then repeating the process a second time. I did 6 repetitions both times and then let it sit for 30 minutes until it was ambient temperature for pads, rotors, and calipers.

You let the brakes SIT while hot?! Please tell me my reading comprehebsion is off and that is not what you did.

[PSJohnDoe]

That wasn't reading comprehension, that was me fast forwarding. I took them 5 miles down the freeway being exteremely easy on them, then parked it at a place right off the freeway for 30 minutes. The rotors and calipers were about ambient temperature after that. Braking was hard enough that after the fifth I could tell they were starting to fade.

Originally Posted by Carbotech

Proper bedding instructions for the Bobcat 1521 Compound :

Brake from 60mph down to 30mph about 4-6 times.
Then let your brakes cool for about 2-3 minutes while driving.
Repeat step # 1.
Allow the brake pads and discs to cool down to ambient temperature (about 30 minutes or more).

[PSJohnDoe]

Tried another go at the same bedding procedure, a bit better, but not much. Squeals quite a bit after warming up some.

By the way, for the more aggressive compounds Carbotech recommends pulling in after bedding, not driving on them to cool them. It could be that I'm at fault for not stopping immediately after completing the process.

Originally Posted by Carbotech

Proper bedding instructions for AX-Series & XP-Series Compounds :

All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.