cusco lca adjustmemt

[garfull]

Is there any easy way to adjust the Cusco LCA? The toe eye adjustment is buried inside the frame. The OEM LCA measured 17.75 center to center dimension. I'm only 2 turns out at the moment and it looks same as OEM -2.5deg measuring 17.2. Im probably going to be stuck with it full in to take out the neg camber. Getting alignment next week and wondering if I should just set it ahead of time.

[cnk]

No easy way for the Cusco LCA. Just have to disconnect, adjust, reconnect it.

[garfull]

That really blows for fine tuning.

Originally Posted by cnk

No easy way for the Cusco LCA. Just have to disconnect, adjust, reconnect it.

[cnk]

Yup. One of the reasons I went with SPC LCAs as those are adjusted on the hub side for easy access. Some of the other LCAs use an extended bolt on the subframe side so that you can get a wrench on it, but the Cusco's are recessed so you have to disconnect them.

[garfull]

What camber range has anyone been able to get. I want to take camber out so i can better match the front. Got -.5 fr and -2.6rr now. I cant go more on the front due to my wheels and I want to be around 1.5 in the rears. 2 turns left of adjustment, I hope thats enough.

Im also noticing the rear suspension is a LOT stiffer. Is this to be expected?

[CircuitJerk]

I had to borrow a set of slim wrenches. Work perfectly. No need for all that time consuming unbolt, drop, adjust etc. That is, you should be able to get the ends indexed in the ballpark before putting everything back together. Shop may have to drop them once if you're too far off but they should be able to to do all fine tuning with the slim wrenches without having to loosen things up again.

Caveat: I was wrong in assuming that the shop that does alignments on performance vehicles would have them. Don't assume anything...LOL
Not having the right tools leads to half assing and marring/stripping your nuts.

[garfull]

Thats good news. Do u remember what size the hex was. They are pretty large and I have no wrenches that fit right now other than a spanner.

Originally Posted by CircuitJerk

I had to borrow a set of slim wrenches. Work perfectly. No need for all that time consuming unbolt, drop, adjust etc. That is, you should be able to get the ends indexed in the ballpark before putting everything back together. Shop may have to drop them once if you're too far off but they should be able to to do all fine tuning with the slim wrenches without having to loosen things up again.

Caveat: I was wrong in assuming that the shop that does alignments on performance vehicles would have them. Don't assume anything...LOL
Not having the right tools leads to half assing and marring/stripping your nuts.

[CircuitJerk]

Originally Posted by garfull

Thats good news. Do u remember what size the hex was. They are pretty large and I have no wrenches that fit right now other than a spanner.

Unfortunately not off the top of my head, but I'll be going to my friend's shop tomorrow but not with my FR-S. I'd have to make a second trip which is not a big deal if no-one chimes in by then.

[CircuitJerk]

I think its 29mm for the smaller nuts and 32 or 31 for the large one. He was missing those when I checked so I couldn't be sure.
Now that I've revisited this, I may have to eat my words a bit in that you should be able to do this all without having to drop the arm.
Since my subframe is off a little I had no problem on the left side but things got a little tight on the right so it took an extra arm drop to get it closer but locking that last nut was more of a challenge.
Still, I highly recommend the slim wrenches in any case.

[garfull]

Here are my findings, hope this is useful for someone else looking to get the cusco lca. Just note all the measurements here are just by eye and using a bubble level app on my phone.

When I installed them at 2 turns out it the camber was close to what I had on the oem lcs which is about -2.6-3 degrees.

I reset the lca to full in and it looks about -.5 degree camber, looked close to the fronts. but when I had slight toe in before at -2.5 degrees it was WAY toe out. I'd say it looked almost 1/2 toe out. Just driving in and out of my garage I was scrubbing tires. I was going to wait till my alignment to fix this but decided to go an extra step and adjust the toe. After setting the toe to max toe in there was still a slight toe out condition.

Since I want a little more camber and toe in for the rear I decided to go and adjust it to 1 turn out.

I was able to make the adjustment without removing the entire lca. With the rear wheels off the ground, I removed the inner(closest to the center of the car) attachment bolt and pulled the rod end out of the subframe, made my adjustments and pushed it back into place. The first time I did this is was fairly easy, the second time was a PITA, I must've been tired or something, but I had to get creative to get the bolt back in the second time.

So after a couple hours of laying on the ground, with 1 turn out there is about -1-1.5 degrees of camber in the rear and a slight toe in. I will get final specs at my alignment this coming Monday. Now that I know how to make the adjustment, I wont get reamed on the hourly alignment rate.

[garfull]

Got my alignment and 1 turn out was exactly -1.0 degree camber....but I was maxed out on the toe adjustment. I wanted to go another half turn but after tightening the lock nuts it was about 1/3 turn instead of 1/2. Alignment tech was really bichin because these are a pain to adjust and its an hourly rate so we left it there. With an extra 1/3 turn I was able to get about 1/16 toe in each side with -1.2-1.3 degree of camber. Looks like 1 turn equates to about -1 degree of camber. I'm happy with this setup, I only have -1.1 in the front and the car feels pretty balanced. I won't be able to push it as hard as I can but its mostly a dd anyways.