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#57 | |
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Quote:
With the Motul bottle I didn't need a pump for the diff. It has a spout and you just squeeze the bottle into the fill hole sort of like squeezing toothpaste out of the tube. Worked fine. Only thing I did stupid was over torque the crush washer but so far no leaks.
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2013 FRS Argento Silver 6MT
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#58 |
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#59 |
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yes i believe that would be fine , when you take the fill/drain plugs out youll see how "thick"the washers are now i dont think you can constantly reuse them but i think they can hold their shape for about to tq loads. maybe more. but they do look solid.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to alex_86 For This Useful Post: | vincent201089 (09-15-2013) |
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#60 | |
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Probably true but the service manual calls for them to be replaced. There is no warning should the manual tranny oil level drop low, I think it best to just replace them $15 s $7k for a new tranny only makes since for the peace of mind.
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2013 FRS Argento Silver 6MT
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#61 |
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such as why i said maybe only used twice maybe more before they are to warped from applied tq to hold their seal "anything and everything" is solely up to your "owner" 's discretion , if you want to replace your tires at 5/32 instead of 2 or 3/32 that's fine or if you wanna replace your brakes 2-6000k miles prior before needing attention that's ok too. not to mention your about 4-5k off on a new transmission.
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#62 |
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I just wanted to chime in with a tip as I'll be doing this DIY next week:
Always remove the fill bolt first before removing the drain bolt on any vehicle. Reason being, if your fill bolt so happens to be seized (unlikely in such a new car) you will not be left stranded in your garage. I learned the hard way on my previous car. |
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#63 |
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Sorry if I miss something.. Are transmission and LSD sharing the same type of fluid?
I'm going to use Motul Gear 300 In this case I just have do buy enough fluid, 2.2L + 1.3L, for both systems right? TIA |
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#64 | |
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#65 | |
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Noise
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Time will Tell... |
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#66 |
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Replaced my transmission oil over the weekend. Didn't bother with a torque wrench, just used a long hex key. Most difficult part was crawling under the car and ending up with a sore neck the next day.
One thing I noticed was that when tightening the underbody panel bolts at the end of the job, if you over-do it the fibreglass kinda gets squished very easily, and I think if you removed and replaced this often, it might eventually tear. So what I did was placed some wide flat washers for the bolts to spread the load and hold it a little better. |
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#67 |
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I may be wrong, but the fiberglass undercarriage isn't supposed to be sandwiched by the bolts to the frame (or whatever it attaches to). It has clearance holes for the bolt that has a built in spacer. So it floats between the head of the bolt and where the spacer starts.
At least that's how mine was. |
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#68 |
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yup i know what you're saying...but my observation was that if you tightened these bolts too much, the fibreglass tray may get deformed. Basically I fitted an extra washer which is wider than the 'built-in' washer on the bolt.
Moral of the story is, do not tighten these bolts too much and you'll be fine
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#69 |
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Any insight on which is better? Motul gear 300 75w90 vs Redline MT90
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#70 |
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Changed my trans and diff fluid today (4,000 miles), and noticed that the trans fluid was dark brown, but there really wasn't too much on the magnet (see below), with a few larger metal shavings. However, the diff fluid looked much cleaner (kind of red-ish), but there was a lot more "gunk" on the magnet.
Replaced both with Motul Gear 300 ![]() ![]()
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| Tags |
| differential, diy, fluid, transmission |
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