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Old 09-12-2013, 10:52 PM   #29
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My car is fast. For twenty minutes. That's fine, I just wish I wasn't at my limits by the end the twenty minutes. Screw, centri turbo, all will cause you to have a hot warmth between your legs and a smile.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:24 PM   #30
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I agree and I wish there was more at track information out there. I'm just trying to gather an idea of as many points as I can before I make a decision. For now I'll probably stay N/A and I hope it doesn't end up that way because I keep thinking how fun this car could be with F/I

I'm just not sure its worth it yet from what I've seen and hope to see more details in the future about true at track experience, with this kit and the other kits available. I'm just not satisfied with what I've seen of 220-260whp F/I setups at the track . What's the point of outclassing the car in a track class, if you can't compete with the higher classed cars?

Yea yea, this car is all about fun but if I'm setting it up for F/I I also want it to be fast.
I hear that a lot.

Whats the point of spending 6k on FI and cooling when you only make 220-260HP. At the end of the day it's a situation of "if only."

The question is will it make you happy with the car?
I think the power made me happy with the car, now I am unhappy with how much money is in it. Can't win.
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:07 AM   #31
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I'm just not sure its worth it yet from what I've seen and hope to see more details in the future about true at track experience, with this kit and the other kits available. I'm just not satisfied with what I've seen of 220-260whp F/I setups at the track . What's the point of outclassing the car in a track class, if you can't compete with the higher classed cars?
You going for an HPDE Championship?
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:05 PM   #32
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You going for an HPDE Championship?
I was planning on running time attack after I get more seat time. But if I do FI it would put me in CC5 or even CC4 meaning I would be competing with prepped m3s mustang gt and even c6 corvette.

So thats why I was asking.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:09 PM   #33
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I was planning on running time attack after I get more seat time. But if I do FI it would put me in CC5 or even CC4 meaning I would be competing with prepped m3s mustang gt and even c6 corvette.

So thats why I was asking.
Well if you are planning for a particular class, then my advice would be look at that class and decide if the car will even be competitive. What power to weight ratio do you need to be competitive, then pick a forced induction strategy that will get you to that goal.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:34 PM   #34
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So just to let folks know I'm officially dialing back my car
Really the com i action of the added torque on the belt and the removal of factory shrouded headers had cost me enough belts and bruised knuckles to make it not worth it anymore, tho I hang with vettes m3 and 911 at my local circuits they are reliable and I'm carrying a spare belt like it's going outta style

It's a grrrrreat street car but maybe the sweet spot is where I need to dial back to for more belt life, the 3.33 pulley and ceramic coated header or OE. My hks header feels great and love how it drives but it's just too hot a part to keep

I will let it go on flea bay this week. I have no doubt the 2.87 belongs on a car on the street and canyon carver but 20 minute sessions playing tag with 911s is just past where the limit is

Is for some folks they are successful with the 2.87 on road course please let me know as maybe it's me or my setup I should look at but play on the sc shaft is within tolerance but there is too much of it, same with crank walk, it's a real issue when you bounce of the rev limiter at 14psi, accidentally,but it's also the way to pass an m3 on a straight

Truth is you're not passing anything with the 3.33 pulley but a miata or s2000 if u lucky, once u been at 2.87 dialing back feels well, weak.

I never felt a turbo or associated heat is what I wanted for road course and am still of that opinion, unless someone has a proven road course turbo kit I'm at the end of the game here
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:30 PM   #35
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So just to let folks know I'm officially dialing back my car
Really the com i action of the added torque on the belt and the removal of factory shrouded headers had cost me enough belts and bruised knuckles to make it not worth it anymore, tho I hang with vettes m3 and 911 at my local circuits they are reliable and I'm carrying a spare belt like it's going outta style

It's a grrrrreat street car but maybe the sweet spot is where I need to dial back to for more belt life, the 3.33 pulley and ceramic coated header or OE. My hks header feels great and love how it drives but it's just too hot a part to keep

I will let it go on flea bay this week. I have no doubt the 2.87 belongs on a car on the street and canyon carver but 20 minute sessions playing tag with 911s is just past where the limit is

Is for some folks they are successful with the 2.87 on road course please let me know as maybe it's me or my setup I should look at but play on the sc shaft is within tolerance but there is too much of it, same with crank walk, it's a real issue when you bounce of the rev limiter at 14psi, accidentally,but it's also the way to pass an m3 on a straight

Truth is you're not passing anything with the 3.33 pulley but a miata or s2000 if u lucky, once u been at 2.87 dialing back feels well, weak.

I never felt a turbo or associated heat is what I wanted for road course and am still of that opinion, unless someone has a proven road course turbo kit I'm at the end of the game here
What, if anything, have you done to increase air flow through the engine bay? And what were the results?
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:59 PM   #36
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You should talk with Phil at Element Tuning. He's the only one running big turbo HP on the race track that I know of.

He's really pushing the limits with his car and discovering what it takes to keep a big HP turbo engine together on track.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:27 PM   #37
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Same question as Calum. Anyone want to chime in on whether a front splitter would direct more air through the cooling components?
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:42 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiichiro View Post
So just to let folks know I'm officially dialing back my car
Really the com i action of the added torque on the belt and the removal of factory shrouded headers had cost me enough belts and bruised knuckles to make it not worth it anymore, tho I hang with vettes m3 and 911 at my local circuits they are reliable and I'm carrying a spare belt like it's going outta style

It's a grrrrreat street car but maybe the sweet spot is where I need to dial back to for more belt life, the 3.33 pulley and ceramic coated header or OE. My hks header feels great and love how it drives but it's just too hot a part to keep

I will let it go on flea bay this week. I have no doubt the 2.87 belongs on a car on the street and canyon carver but 20 minute sessions playing tag with 911s is just past where the limit is

Is for some folks they are successful with the 2.87 on road course please let me know as maybe it's me or my setup I should look at but play on the sc shaft is within tolerance but there is too much of it, same with crank walk, it's a real issue when you bounce of the rev limiter at 14psi, accidentally,but it's also the way to pass an m3 on a straight

Truth is you're not passing anything with the 3.33 pulley but a miata or s2000 if u lucky, once u been at 2.87 dialing back feels well, weak.

I never felt a turbo or associated heat is what I wanted for road course and am still of that opinion, unless someone has a proven road course turbo kit I'm at the end of the game here
Why don't you go with the 3.125? Can't you thermal wrap the header?
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:33 AM   #39
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Why don't you go with the 3.125? Can't you thermal wrap the header?
theres a good loss of power between the 3.125 and the 2.87, I LOVE how the car feels on the 2.87, it really cant keep up with the vettes and 911's on the smaller pulley thru the straights
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:36 AM   #40
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What, if anything, have you done to increase air flow through the engine bay? And what were the results?
Great question, I did open up this idea by adding two fans, one thermally controlled and one on a switch, the ones you can get from summit for brake ducts, and it just blew hotter air further back

heat alone is not the issue, the belt torque is the issue
I can track all day long on the 3.33 and not even worry about the belt

BECAUSE i have a EBCS and its set to run 13 psi I load up the belt
IF i run no EBCS/lower boost, no issue, but I dont get the rise in my pants either without the extra boost
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:37 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
You should talk with Phil at Element Tuning. He's the only one running big turbo HP on the race track that I know of.

He's really pushing the limits with his car and discovering what it takes to keep a big HP turbo engine together on track.
Possible next step! Indeed...
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:19 PM   #42
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Omg this thread is awesome.
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