Tein suspension. YUNOMOREPOPULAR ??

[Kilika]

Are there any dyno plots of a warmed up damper? What I hear about Japanese dampers from a national level autocrosser who is anal about setup is that their "30 position" dampers would become 2-3 position adjustable once the shock oil heats up after hard track use with some saying the adjuster is pretty much useless when driven hard for a long period. A typical street car don't push dampers very much thus never has to worry about this but on a track car, consistency and predictability are really important, perhaps a key selling point for external reservoirs. The F1 guys throw their cars on 7-post shaker jigs that simulate bumps from specified tracks to tune and test their suspension, but then again, those drivers are ultra consistent lap after lap, unlike us mere mortals who just go for one really fast lap and get that FTD. Obviously we don't have that luxury but the fact of the matter is, oil loses viscosity when it heats up.

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[solidONE]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Short version:

0.01-0.05 = roll/input

0.05-0.10 = berms, curbs, etc.

0.30 = potholes, parking bricks, red blocks of death at Laguna Seca, etc.

Do the 3 lines on the force/velocity graph represent the maximum adjustment on the Tein SRC dampers or just how the damping changes due to temp?

[TouchMyHonda]

Bah

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

This mirrors my impression of the Flex (not Street Flex, which supercedes the Flex)...

I was rather surprised by the suspension; I only did a quick outlap to feel out the suspension, and came in to turn the damping up higher, only to find out that it was already maxed (unfortunately). Shockingly good for the price (but not quite track worthy).

On a side note, 7k... my stock S2k suspension is 7k...

Yeah but what's the motion ratio? Definitely not the same as ol' Mcstrut Subaru.

Originally Posted by Kilika

Are there any dyno plots of a warmed up damper? What I hear about Japanese dampers from a national level autocrosser who is anal about setup is that their "30 position" dampers would become 2-3 position adjustable once the shock oil heats up after hard track use with some saying the adjuster is pretty much useless when driven hard for a long period. A typical street car don't push dampers very much thus never has to worry about this but on a track car, consistency and predictability are really important, perhaps a key selling point for external reservoirs. The F1 guys throw their cars on 7-post shaker jigs that simulate bumps from specified tracks to tune and test their suspension, but then again, those drivers are ultra consistent lap after lap, unlike us mere mortals who just go for one really fast lap and get that FTD. Obviously we don't have that luxury but the fact of the matter is, oil loses viscosity when it heats up.

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You can sometimes see shock fade on the dyno if it's really bad and you're doing a lot of velocities and you're looking for it.

- Andy

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yeah but what's the motion ratio? Definitely not the same as ol' Mcstrut Subaru.


- Andy

Per some Googling:

F: 0.7
R: 0.667

[Racecomp Engineering]

So that 7kg is about 3.43 kg/mm or 185 lbs/in up front. Interesting car. I kinda want one.

My 1968 Datsun fairlady has like 700 lbs/in (13 kg/mm) springs up front from the factory. I haven't tried to figure out the motion ratio but it's pretty darn low.

Anyway.....

- Andy

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Kilika

Are there any dyno plots of a warmed up damper? What I hear about Japanese dampers from a national level autocrosser who is anal about setup is that their "30 position" dampers would become 2-3 position adjustable once the shock oil heats up after hard track use with some saying the adjuster is pretty much useless when driven hard for a long period. A typical street car don't push dampers very much thus never has to worry about this but on a track car, consistency and predictability are really important, perhaps a key selling point for external reservoirs. The F1 guys throw their cars on 7-post shaker jigs that simulate bumps from specified tracks to tune and test their suspension, but then again, those drivers are ultra consistent lap after lap, unlike us mere mortals who just go for one really fast lap and get that FTD. Obviously we don't have that luxury but the fact of the matter is, oil loses viscosity when it heats up.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 4

This is not your typical $1200 Japanese damper.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yeah but what's the motion ratio? Definitely not the same as ol' Mcstrut Subaru.

But the net is still far higher

I do have a CR, which has higher rates than the non-CR s2ks.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

So that 7kg is about 3.43 kg/mm or 185 lbs/in up front. Interesting car. I kinda want one.

My 1968 Datsun fairlady has like 700 lbs/in (13 kg/mm) springs up front from the factory. I haven't tried to figure out the motion ratio but it's pretty darn low.

Anyway.....

- Andy

If you ever come out to Cali, you're welcome to take our cars out for a drive

Part of the reason why we started with a 10k/12k setup is because we were able to damp a 16k/16k setup on the s2k to ride comfortably (better than stock), which is roughly in the same effective spring

You may find this of interest: http://clubhondaspirit.com/ftpforo/s...rings_rev1.pdf

Written by one of the original S2k owners; he owns a MY00, and still owns (and tracks) it. He's also one of the major contributors to the motion ratio thread @ayau googled.

[diss7]

Originally Posted by ft_sjo

You stated before you're not looking to improve handling, so why even go to coilovers at all? Just put some lowering springs on?

After some thought and ended up taking your advice.

Didn't need height adjustability. I know the height I want by measuring my own car and looking at the abundance of pictures.

So have bought some eibach springs.

Seems that you're either lowering, or improve handling/track racing.

Springs will lower car, which is what I'm looking for.

If handling suffers badly, I will get mid-high end coilovers.

[Speed Element]

When there's A LOT of other brands out there, it's hard to compete. Tein quality is good when it comes to higher level coilovers.

When it's ther lower level, I suggest BC Racing or Stance coilovers.

[bkblitzed]

never liked tien products for some reason, probably because there's better brands for cheaper

[TouchMyHonda]

I have mono flex for my civic. It handles awesome. I would imagine the mono flex for the brz is very good.

[koevasi]

I have the tein flex with 7kgmm springs. Works ok on smooth roads but spring rates are too low for the track. Doesn't like bumps and undulations where it feels oversprung and underdamped. I actually wonder if Tein technicians even bothered to do any R&D (or maybe it explains why they came up with Street and Mono only a few months later). It almost feels like they thought of springs they wanted to go with and gave up on the valving. It feels worse the more I drive and I am going back to stock soon while I look for a suitable replacement.

In my experience any coilovers under $3k will be terrible and a decent set of progressive springs will offer a much better handling on public roads 95% of the time. BTW I lived in NZ for nearly 20 years - Japanese coilovers seldom work well on NZ roads.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by koevasi

I have the tein flex with 7kgmm springs. Works ok on smooth roads but spring rates are too low for the track. Doesn't like bumps and undulations where it feels oversprung and underdamped. I actually wonder if Tein technicians even bothered to do any R&D (or maybe it explains why they came up with Street and Mono only a few months later). It almost feels like they thought of springs they wanted to go with and gave up on the valving. It feels worse the more I drive and I am going back to stock soon while I look for a suitable replacement.

In my experience any coilovers under $3k will be terrible and a decent set of progressive springs will offer a much better handling on public roads 95% of the time. BTW I lived in NZ for nearly 20 years - Japanese coilovers seldom work well on NZ roads.

It's just marginally underdamped for rebound. Compression damping is just fine.