Install Day - P&L Equal Length Header and Perrin Motor Mounts

[tennisfreak]

On the P&L sight I thought their own dyno only showed a 6whp untuned and 10 tuned?

I thought you should get closer to 20whp(or even 30) with a header and a tune.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by tennisfreak

On the P&L sight I thought their own dyno only showed a 6whp untuned and 10 tuned?

I thought you should get closer to 20whp(or even 30) with a header and a tune.

That dyno was made with a "generic" tune. They just wanted to show that it made power in the dip area. I'm over 30 hp above stock on pump and 40+ over on E85.

I'll be shooting for 205+ hp this week.

[F1point4]

Continuing my media blitzkrieg

Cold Start and Standstill Revving

Some people say these are pointless, Oh well. This is in the same underground parking structure as the video I did for the Borla. Here are both for comparison

P&L Equal Length Catted Header
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgj4DDWhEdE"]P&L Equal Length Catted and Perrin Headerback - Standstill Idle and Revving - YouTube[/ame]

Borla Unequal Length Catless Header
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbkXzeTC4o4"]Lola Full Exhaust (inside an underground parking structure) - YouTube[/ame]

[tennisfreak]

IDK I actually like the P&L EL catted sound better than the Borla UEL uncatted.

Sounds like a smoother and more consistent exhaust note. A little droney on startup but after its warm it all sounds gravy.

[448hpsti]

Indeed, the P&L can get very drony at about 3500 revs but the power band is OH SO worth it. Adding the right resonator did the trick. drone gone, maybe 98% gone, good enough for me

I wholly love the EL power, but still find the UEL sound sorta meaner sounding

I had the option to buy the Borla UEL or the P&L for similar $$ and am glad I went P&L EL with the ceramic
thanks for the utube

[Hawaiian]

Taking photos and measuring for @F1point4

[P&L Motorsports]

@Hawaiian - Getting an early start buddy?

Thanks for the great photos/write-up @F1point4
We are working to resolve the issue people are having with the clearance and I will definitely keep you (and everyone else) on the informed list.

Dylan@P&L

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian

Taking photos and measuring for @F1point4

Originally Posted by P&L Motorsports

@Hawaiian - Getting an early start buddy?

Thanks for the great photos/write-up @F1point4
We are working to resolve the issue people are having with the clearance and I will definitely keep you (and everyone else) on the informed list.

Dylan@P&L

Thank you both for your efforts! Please keep everyone informed, I'm sure everyone would love to hear some updates.

[*KID*]

Dam that sounds so beautiful

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Thank you both for your efforts! Please keep everyone informed, I'm sure everyone would love to hear some updates.

From today.

http://static.photobucket.com/player...pse63a3252.mp4

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian

From today.

http://static.photobucket.com/player...pse63a3252.mp4

Thank you sir. Your clearances are much more than mine. Next time my car is in the air I will play around with it. Brakes need to go on first

[Mobius357]

@Hawaiian Good video. My overpipe has much less clearance on the side, my pipe may be 1/4 inch or more sideways compared to yours. I think your have more clearance that even my stock overpipe sans heatshields, definitely more side clearance. Can your fit fingers between the cat and that nub/boss on the block? I have it close enough I can't fit my pinky, and still can't quite fit my pinky between the stock overpipe and rear/top of the crossmember. I'm having a hard time finding the motivation to crawl under the car again so I can side by side compare the the P&L and stock headers.

[mikalem]

Originally Posted by Mobius357

@Hawaiian Good video. My overpipe has much less clearance on the side, my pipe may be 1/4 inch or more sideways compared to yours. I think your have more clearance that even my stock overpipe sans heatshields, definitely more side clearance. Can your fit fingers between the cat and that nub/boss on the block? I have it close enough I can't fit my pinky, and still can't quite fit my pinky between the stock overpipe and rear/top of the crossmember. I'm having a hard time finding the motivation to crawl under the car again so I can side by side compare the the P&L and stock headers.

@Hawaiian - Agree, nice vid to show the setup - mine shows similar clearance, but it looks like the overpipe could do with shifting over to the drivers side just a bit, then coming back out to mate up to the front pipe - wondering if P&L can comment on what specifically they found needed changed in the newer revised version of the pipe.

I think the suggestion of tightening everything down from the front to the overpipe first followed by help or shims is a great way to go - I did something similar but just used a floor jack to keep the pipe where I wanted it to tighten everything back up - currently I don't have the rattling problem anymore.... waiting to see if the cold weather we are starting to get in the morning affects that at all.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Thank you sir. Your clearances are much more than mine. Next time my car is in the air I will play around with it. Brakes need to go on first

Tell me about it. At 32k miles and a few Autox I NEED to change my brakes and fluid. Also, it's time for Stainless lines. I was waiting to do it all in one go.

Originally Posted by Mobius357

@Hawaiian Good video. My overpipe has much less clearance on the side, my pipe may be 1/4 inch or more sideways compared to yours. I think your have more clearance that even my stock overpipe sans heatshields, definitely more side clearance. Can your fit fingers between the cat and that nub/boss on the block? I have it close enough I can't fit my pinky, and still can't quite fit my pinky between the stock overpipe and rear/top of the crossmember. I'm having a hard time finding the motivation to crawl under the car again so I can side by side compare the the P&L and stock headers.

I can fit my pinky in between the nub and the cat. My others, not as well. I can get my pinky in to about the nail by the crossmember before it gets too narrow.

I know what you mean. I've been under the car enough to not want to get back down there, but in the name of trying to help people I was willing to give it a go. Unfortunately I've had the heat shield off so many times that it seems I've messed up one of the bolt threads for the undertray. I will need to have it tapped. I blame the Harbor freight tools, and working on jack stands.

Originally Posted by mikalem

@Hawaiian - Agree, nice vid to show the setup - mine shows similar clearance, but it looks like the overpipe could do with shifting over to the drivers side just a bit, then coming back out to mate up to the front pipe - wondering if P&L can comment on what specifically they found needed changed in the newer revised version of the pipe.

I think the suggestion of tightening everything down from the front to the overpipe first followed by help or shims is a great way to go - I did something similar but just used a floor jack to keep the pipe where I wanted it to tighten everything back up - currently I don't have the rattling problem anymore.... waiting to see if the cold weather we are starting to get in the morning affects that at all.

I don't know about a "nice video". When I watched it, it felt like a Michael Bay film. All shaky and filled with odd camera angles. It's a good thing I'm not Vtuned anymore or there would have been the matching explosions.

One more thing that I thought of while I was puttering around today (after I filmed the video). Stand in front of the car and imagine the header as your legs. Now put your left arm out at an angle to match the downpipe with your arm slighly bent. Holding that angle, lift your arm up and down by only rotating your shoulder. That's your Vband clamp. It gives you a bit of adjust-ability but when you're dealing with a 3cm space above the Cat, and a 2-3mm space under the overpipe it really needs to be spot on.

If your cat is contacting the block, then your "arm" is lifted too high. The Vband needs to rotate down a little. If it's contacting the cross member and pushed to the passenger side, it's rotated too far "down" and needs to rotate up a little.

As I said in the video, the easiest way for me to get everything perfect was to leave the Vband loose, and the rest of the exhaust as well. Then I locked the overpipe in place (because it has the smallest margin for error), once that was positioned properly, I tightened the front pipe to it (the bolt to the trans is still loose at this point), then I tightened the Vband down. The last step was the bolt to the trans hanger.

I also had a cross threaded screw that ultimately ruined the thread. As a result my skid plate was loose, and banging around. I thought that was the overpipe, but when my car was on the lift @ P&L I mentioned it to Tyler. He looked up and spotted the bolt right away. He started pounding my skidplate with his fist and it made a metal on metal rattling noise. He Bolted it all back the right way with an impact gun, and the last little noise went away.

If I can help even one or 2 of you with this issue, then it was worth the time spent under the car today.