08-14-2013, 02:08 PM | #29 |
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I just installed a sub yesterday. Couldn't (or wouldn't) have done it without this information. This info helped me so much.
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08-14-2013, 10:32 PM | #30 |
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Anybody that installed the alpine amp figure out if you wire the high input to the front input will the amp send amplified signal to the rear L/R speaker positive and negative I want to power the rear speakers aswell as the door speakers with this amp.
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08-15-2013, 09:07 AM | #31 |
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If I understand the way the car is wired, the rears are powered from the H/U, which means there are no wires involved in this particular harness that go to those speakers.
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08-15-2013, 09:11 AM | #32 |
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Does anyone know if the signal going to the amp is truly full range? Is any necessary filtering done in the amp? What I really want to know is if I can tap this signal wire for a sub, assuming I run power wires.
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08-15-2013, 09:45 AM | #33 | |
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The bigger question if you're bothering to run a power wire is why not also run some RCAs from the sub out on the deck? All of these decks have at least a sub-out.
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08-15-2013, 11:07 AM | #34 |
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My experience is that the less wiring I run, the better off I am. Plus, if I run an RCA cable, it means pulling up both sides of the carpet to keep it away from the power wire that would run down the opposite side of the car. I'm at an age where my back is cranky enough that the less time I spend bent over my car, the better. I'd much rather sit at my bench making a wiring harness that I can plug in quickly than crawl around in the car.
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08-15-2013, 03:29 PM | #35 | |
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On the harness, remote wire is going into right front speaker negative, so I had to cut that wire and reconnect properly. It's also confusing that the harness on the rear OEM amp has left and right wires swapped out (location wise). So, you have to go by the OP's instruction. Not by the instruction that comes with the harness. By doing it this way, you do save time squeezing into tight space. But after I went through all this, I'm pretty sure it would've been easier if I just ran the RCA from the OEM deck. I probably spent 2 hours researching on what harness to get, how to rewire the harness, connecting all the wires, and etc just to save probably 10-20 minutes of time to run RCA cable. |
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08-15-2013, 03:56 PM | #36 |
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Yeah, but if I run RCA cable then I might as well run individual speaker wires and install a four channel amp and some decent separates and then I'm perilously close to the edge of that slippery slope that ends with my car completely apart and my wife giving me that "I knew you couldn't stop with a sub maybe your son will lend you his car but don't ask to borrow mine" look.
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08-15-2013, 04:15 PM | #37 | |
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08-18-2013, 07:18 AM | #38 |
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Anyone have a good informative link to what all this car audio terminology means? I don't understand what these methods of bridging, 4-channel to 2-channel, high vs low level inputs, and crossovers actually accomplishes. I have a great grasp of electrical theory, (a 20p20t relay wouldn't scare me in the slightest), but car audio is something that I never cared to delve into.
As far as personal use, all I'm trying to do is figure out how to add some thump for cheap ($200 is what I've allotted myself), and get rid of the door rattles from the lower-frequencies played through the door speakers. I plan on using [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-P-W120TB-12-Inch-Tube-Subwoofer/dp/B004NMLB68/"]this kenwood tube sub and amp combo[/ame], and a capacitor to kill off the unwanted frequencies through the door speakers (though I'm unclear what kind I'll need), but I'm interested in how I could possibly boost the power going to the other stock speaker components utilizing those bridging methods I'm seeing people talk about (if I'm actually understanding that all correctly). Thoughts? |
08-19-2013, 10:09 AM | #39 |
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I finally got around to doing the tuning of the levels on the amp and give it a real world test (80mph on the hwy with the windows down) and I'm very very pleased with the overall results.
One thing I did change was the high pass filter, I had set it to 80hz as a previous poster had suggested but I found the car was lacking bass, I changed it to 60hz and there was a noticeable improvement in the low end and the stock speakers could still handle it. Overall the whole stereo is significantly clearer, cleaner, louder and has more "punch" even with the stock drivers still in the car. This is a great cheap upgrade (~$170) for the stock stereo that I would recommend to anyone, definitely worth it and essentially plug and play.
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08-20-2013, 01:00 PM | #40 | |
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I was thinking to take these below and convert to RCA and use as sub output from HU, since BRZ HU does not have RCA out, will this work? Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9] Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10]
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08-21-2013, 12:25 PM | #41 |
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It should, as long as the amp has the ability to sum the two channels to one mono signal to drive the sub. If you already have a sub that won't do it, there are summing devices available.
I'm assuming your amp has a crossover built in or you have an external one.
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08-21-2013, 04:17 PM | #42 | |
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Slightly more advanced: A line output converter. Because its a full signal you can use it on speakers or a sub with appropriate crossover points. Only problem is the "Sub" volume control on whatever headunit you are running will have no effect. You would have to boost the lower frequencies yourself, which is often possible on line converters (many have built in eq's) or your HU. :happy0180: |
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