Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[brillo]

took a few days to skim this thread as I'm very interested in this FI solution. Alot of great information and many thanks to all of you who have pioneered this product.

A couple of questions for those with the Innovate S/C:

1. Are there any issues created as you can't currently monitor your IATs? (I know a fix for this is coming).

2. Has anyone done enough repeated dyno's to book end the impact of heat soak and lack of a intercooler? For example, after five pulls the car looses 15hp between the first and fifth pull?

3. I'm not clear if the sub 2,000 rpm / part throttle drivability issues have been resolved. I got the impression this was tuning related.

[evo4g63]

Looks as if I found my noise finally. It is coming from the bypass valve on the back of the unit. I am wondering if and when the unit opens and closes of the rod is bent. This would cause it to bind and such. Reason I saw this is due to the two heater hoses that run to the throttle body. Seems as it was minorly touching the valve. I moved that line and went wot. Noise is gone wot but is slightly apparent if I blip at 6k. I guess I may need a new bypass valve.....

[xxscaxx]

glad you found the problem man. Now its my turn to figure out my noise, lol.

[evo4g63]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

glad you found the problem man. Now its my turn to figure out my noise, lol.

As am I. I went through the entire car multiple times because I am anal. Now I just need to see what a new valve will cost me to be safe

[evo4g63]

If anyone can post or send me pics of the opening of the valve. I want to see if the arm going in is sitting straight or slightly angled.

[swift996]

Originally Posted by evo4g63

If anyone can post or send me pics of the opening of the valve. I want to see if the arm going in is sitting straight or slightly angled.

Please add some pics when you figure it all out. It would be helpful to the community.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by evo4g63

If anyone can post or send me pics of the opening of the valve. I want to see if the arm going in is sitting straight or slightly angled.

Not sure if these show you what you're looking for

[evo4g63]

Originally Posted by swift996

Please add some pics when you figure it all out. It would be helpful to the community.

I will add some here in a bit. Basically if you look at the black part which is the valve there are three screws in it. The two top screw look slightly backed out. The rod is slightly angled coming out of the blower but mine is also is angled going into the valve. I wanna compare mine to another one and see how it looks going in.

[tom@kartboy]

I have the same noise. I believe its just some funky timing between the bypass valve and when the TB opens again. I haven't noticed any issues with it. just a little clack sound. *shrug*

I might pull off the TB next week just to double check that it is not hitting, but i think its fine.

Tom

[sw20kosh]

@evo4g63 @tom@kartboy

Maybe I was right! Hahaha

Thinking back...I had to install a new bypass actuator (needed two nipples) before installing the supercharger. What I found was that if this (pictured below) concentric(?) spacer was not adjusted properly, the butterfly valve would "shut too far" and literally get stuck in the closed position.

It would take some force on the actuator arm to actually get it to open. It also made a bit of metal on metal scraping/clack noise when it closed or open due to this tight tolerance.

You can adjust how far closed the valve swings via this doodad:



Use a hex to loosen the bolt and it will rotate freely. Annoying thing is that the spacer will also rotate when you tighten the hex.

[xjohnx]

fuel pump issue appears to be fixed. now time to make MOAR POWAH!

[Subzero]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

Maybe I was right! Hahaha

Thinking back...I had to install a new bypass actuator (needed two nipples) before installing the supercharger. What I found was that if this (pictured below) concentric(?) spacer was not adjusted properly, the butterfly valve would "shut too far" and literally get stuck in the closed position.

It would take some force on the actuator arm to actually get it to open. It also made a bit of metal on metal scraping/clack noise when it closed or open due to this tight tolerance.

You can adjust how far closed the valve swings via this doodad:



Use a hex to loosen the bolt and it will rotate freely. Annoying thing is that the spacer will also rotate when you tighten the hex.

This is a little hard to explain in detail, so I'll try the simple approach first. The recirc valve itself needs some "preload" on it. The eccentric piece, when clocked in the right position, provides the preload. You don't want the recirc butterfly open, but you want a little tension against the diaphragm. That's the window you're looking for.

That looks a little like adjusting a diaphragm for an automatic transmission, but with an eccentric cam instead. 70's and 80's Big 3 cars were like that, but had predrilled holes where you would set the rod instead.

Old carburetors were similar, too.



I'm gonna go drag my knuckles back into my cave and have a brontosaurus burger, now...

[evo4g63]

I will mess with it tonight. Phoenix heat isn't so forgiving at all during the day.

[wrxgoose]

fortunately no issues with the bypass valve, but my friend john hooked my car up to a Lexus super tool, and i'm definitely needing to install the injectors and the pump soon. Showed that I was at 100% injector use while at WOT and close to that on the pump.