Performance and wheel size

[Howardwei]

Hey Guys,

I have been searching related topic but could not find a straightforward answer. If I increase the horses of my car. Do I need to up/down the size of my wheels? and the stickies posted on the forum had the perfect fitment with stock height at 17x7 toward the more poke side. what does the more poke mean?

Sorry I am "very" new to this

[ModBargains.com]

If you increase the power of your car, you don't necessarily need to increase the wheel/tire sizing, it just helps out. If you go with big power, you'll want to increase the width of the rear tire essentially, that's the most important part since those are the driven wheels.

Poke refers to wheels sticking outside the fenders (see picture below). Poking is more for looks, not for function:



Pretty extreme example, but you get the idea

[Boil]

Originally Posted by ModBargains.com

Poke refers to wheels sticking outside the fenders (see picture below). Poking is more for looks, not for function:



Pretty extreme example, but you get the idea

"For looks" = silly 'stanced out' appearance…

"For function" = wider wheels/tires for improved contact/grip (usually needed when generating more HP)…

A result of trying to fit wider wheels/tires into a space that they will not fit…

If you are rubbing springs/suspension, then obviously you need to move the rim/tire outward; this results in poke…

Now, that AWFUL 'stances out' camber (and the stretched as frak rubber does not help) is too much…

Most cases where one cambers their wheels is to get that top edge 'flush' with the fender lip, if you do not need a ton of camber then it can look alright…

But shitte like above, just get a wide-body kit or fender flares or something…!

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Howardwei

what does the more poke mean

Poke, tuck and flush.

Poke means that the wheel sticks out beyond the fender.

Tuck means that the wheels are inside the fender. This is how the -86 comes from the factory

Flush is neither poke or tuck...the wheel (not the tire) is flush with the fender opening.

[Howardwei]

Originally Posted by Boil

"For looks" = silly 'stanced out' appearance…

"For function" = wider wheels/tires for improved contact/grip (usually needed when generating more HP)…

A result of trying to fit wider wheels/tires into a space that they will not fit…

If you are rubbing springs/suspension, then obviously you need to move the rim/tire outward; this results in poke…

Now, that AWFUL 'stances out' camber (and the stretched as frak rubber does not help) is too much…

Most cases where one cambers their wheels is to get that top edge 'flush' with the fender lip, if you do not need a ton of camber then it can look alright…

But shitte like above, just get a wide-body kit or fender flares or something…!

Thank you for your elaboration! I was also wondering to what degree of width is best for an increased in performance? the tire showed 245/35 on mine if i remember correctly? in crease in width means the 35 has to go up right? what happens if i swapped the tire, does the tire pressure sensor not come with the aftermarket tire like work emotion or ADV1?

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by Howardwei

Thank you for your elaboration! I was also wondering to what degree of width is best for an increased in performance? the tire showed 245/35 on mine if i remember correctly? in crease in width means the 35 has to go up right? what happens if i swapped the tire, does the tire pressure sensor not come with the aftermarket tire like work emotion or ADV1?

With tire numbers, they work like this. You'll get a set of numbers like you see below. The first three numbers, 265, refers to the width of the tire. 35 refers to the sidewall of the tire, and the last number refers to the diameter of the wheel, in this case it's an 18" wheel. Now of course the larger the numbers, the increase in width or sidewall will happen, and visa versa with lower numbers.

265/35/18

For places like us who specialize in making your car look perfect, we do all the hard stuff for you like helping with wheel sizes, and tire sizes to get you the look you want. Often times I have customers who show me a picture of a car and just ask me to get whatever he did, and I'll do the rest. I enjoy doing that because it makes it easy.

For wheels, if you really really want to pay $7000+ for ADV1's go right ahead, but most of the guys on this forum would rather not take out a second mortgage just for wheels. I'd say work is a better option because they're better pricing. PM me if you have any questions!

[Mach V Dan]

Originally Posted by ModBargains.com

With tire numbers, they work like this. You'll get a set of numbers like you see below. The first three numbers, 265, refers to the width of the tire. 35 refers to the sidewall of the tire, and the last number refers to the diameter of the wheel, in this case it's an 18" wheel. Now of course the larger the numbers, the increase in width or sidewall will happen, and visa versa with lower numbers.

To elaborate a little on this -- the "35" is an aspect ratio. It means that the sidewall of the tire will be 35% of the width of the tire. In this case it would mean that the sidewall height would be 0.35 * 265 = 92.75mm.

There are lots of calculators for tire size, but my favorite is this one: Miata.net.

--Dan
Mach V

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by Mach V Dan

To elaborate a little on this -- the "35" is an aspect ratio. It means that the sidewall of the tire will be 35% of the width of the tire. In this case it would mean that the sidewall height would be 0.35 * 265 = 92.75mm.

There are lots of calculators for tire size, but my favorite is this one: Miata.net.

--Dan
Mach V

Thought that was a little too complicated for someone who is new at this, but yes essentially that's what the realistic number is.

OP, hopefully you don't get too confused by that. PM me for further elaboration if you want, or you can call me if you like - 714.582.3330 extension 8002.

[makesdrivingfunagain]

Originally Posted by Howardwei

Hey Guys,

I have been searching related topic but could not find a straightforward answer. If I increase the horses of my car. Do I need to up/down the size of my wheels? and the stickies posted on the forum had the perfect fitment with stock height at 17x7 toward the more poke side. what does the more poke mean?

Sorry I am "very" new to this

Yeah no problem, it is a good question. You don't need to, however, let me qualify that statement. It depends on how much horsepower you make and how you drive the car. If I added 20-40 hp to the wheels on my car (FRS) I wouldn't need to change the tires, it depends on my preference. I may not want traction, or it may not affect my car as much as I thought. It depends also on the driving you do, autocross, drag racing, street driving, "spirited" driving etc. Budget is also important to consider as softer tires give better traction, however, usually this is at a higher financial cost and lower life of the tire. Also, what perhaps can be more important than the size of the tire is how soft or hard the rubber is. You can see this on the UTQG rating of the tire, also the performance category, and the speed rating. Personal preference is sometimes what it comes down too. Hopefully that helps, good luck!

[makesdrivingfunagain]

Perhaps what may allow you to have increased traction (at least in the rear end) would be to run a full tank of gas, or less than full for optimum power to weight ratio. In this case you may not need bigger rims and tires. Remember bigger rims and tires can add weight also, even softer tires often add weight. And, if you want more traction (assuming you are still spinning) you may want to run the car with the spare, jack etc... This is an inexpensive way to increase traction on certain cars and in certain conditions. I hope this helps.

[TRD_86]

Originally Posted by ModBargains.com

With tire numbers, they work like this. You'll get a set of numbers like you see below. The first three numbers, 265, refers to the width of the tire. 35 refers to the sidewall of the tire, and the last number refers to the diameter of the wheel, in this case it's an 18" wheel. Now of course the larger the numbers, the increase in width or sidewall will happen, and visa versa with lower numbers.

265/35/18

For places like us who specialize in making your car look perfect, we do all the hard stuff for you like helping with wheel sizes, and tire sizes to get you the look you want. Often times I have customers who show me a picture of a car and just ask me to get whatever he did, and I'll do the rest. I enjoy doing that because it makes it easy.

For wheels, if you really really want to pay $7000+ for ADV1's go right ahead, but most of the guys on this forum would rather not take out a second mortgage just for wheels. I'd say work is a better option because they're better pricing. PM me if you have any questions!

This is great ! I would stop by your place for next installation. Btw, If I plan to get a set of standard size available on the market like the enkei raijin 18x8.5 Fr, 18x9.5 Rr and you can adjust set camber and make it flush w/ 265x35x18 tire for the rear right? front can be smaller 235x40x18. I don't like tire to stick out or poke.

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by TRD_86

This is great ! I would stop by your place for next installation. Btw, If I plan to get a set of standard size available on the market like the enkei raijin 18x8.5 Fr, 18x9.5 Rr and you can adjust set camber and make it flush w/ 265x35x18 tire for the rear right? front can be smaller 235x40x18. I don't like tire to stick out or poke.

We will certainly work with you and your car to get your desired look, that's not a problem