Unichip map downloads and tuning

[Unichip Jack]

IceFyre13th… My apologies if I miss questions…I try to hit everything every day, but sometimes I get pulled in too many directions. If I miss something that you really want an answer to, shoot me a PM since they go to my inbox as well.

We’re scheduled to put the FA20 Club intake back on the car next week and complete the maps. As soon as they’re done, we’ll get them posted.

The Flux2 “accept” graphics are a liability thing… sorry, they’re built into the firmware and they won’t go away.

The metal pin is a taper fitting, if you support one side you can use a small punch and a hammer to very lightly tap the pin to one side which will move the taper and increase the friction… if you want a more specific description than that, shoot me a PM and I’ll tell you what I mean.

Yes, we can certainly work something out for the connectors…

Mttimney… tuners really come and go, unfortunately. Nobody comes to mind as particularly current in New England but if you have a favorite shop, I’d be happy to talk with them… it’s not difficult for them to get started with Unichip tuning.

Cheers

[mtimney]

@Unichip Jack...

I was putting in a performance header and the factory had stripped the threads on the downstream O2 sensor. So, I'm without a car as they have to get the part from overseas.

Would my unichip be bothered by not having the 2nd sensor, or would it fool the ecu into thinking things were fine? It would be nice to have a car for the next four days.

[Unichip Jack]

mtimney... thanks for the post.

The Unichip won't care, but the factory ECU will.

Cheers

[DAEMANO]

So the Phantom eCharger is real, and it really works. Some of it's primary advantage is that it installs in < 2 hours, bolts off in < 30 minutes gives +80wtq in the dip and +30whp max. Prob is, it needs a tune to not throw a CEL in certain conditions. So far I believe the ECU has been altered with BRZedit. My question to anyone in this thread who knows Unichip (especially UnichipJack) is if Unichip is capable of resolving the issue below. If so the combination of Unichip + eCharger would make a killer combo for those looking for a DD bolt on kit that could be removed in short order and be warranty invisible. Jack, am I smoking crack here?

Originally Posted by fenton

1. 80 percent throttle is 80 percent to the floor.... which is = to 100% throttle body open. So you can basically drive the car Full throttle NA and then push the throttle 10% more(past the switch) and get the supercharged power. It has never kicked in when i didnt want to it. When i want to pass someone i go WOT and it engages instantly.

2. It isnt just going wot under 3000 rpm. If you go wot in 4th to 6th gear between 3000 and 4000 the CEL will come on indicating MAP out of range or something like that. If you gun it at 1000 rpm(dont know why you would do this) it will go very rich and probably bog. In first gear you are out of that range within seconds..... even after you feather the clutch to get going you usually are at 2000 and it works just fine.

The one thing that i found was i had a crap start once and bogged it(almost stalled) and then went full thorttle to try and get up to speed and it just kind of bucked and bogged. You have to think of it this way, almost no other form of Forced induction can give 4 to 5 psi of boost(sans PD) at 1000 rpm..... there is so much load on the engine at that RPM that it pushes the ECU outside of its known fuel and load tables resulting in rich AFR.

It really isnt a problem at all, only ran into it once as i mentioned.

3. For the dyno on the stock tune we just started at 3200 rpm and it recorded the run fine. It still gets a CEL but the run produced safe AFR's and good power.

Once we tuned we were starting at about 2300 RPM and it has happy to do that all day long without throwing a code. I really recommend a tune for this product.

Hope that helps, keep the questions coming, im the Guinea pig and have had the system for over 5000km now!

[ML]

probably just take the unichip to a local tuner, or buy the tuning kit and tune away.

[neutron256]

Originally Posted by ML

probably just take the unichip to a local tuner, or buy the tuning kit and tune away.

I'm currently running unichip and hopefully will be using it for my open source e-charger. The biggest problem is there really aren't many unichip tuners out there (None in my area I think). I'm willing to buy the tuning kit because I think in addition to tuning for the e-charger it may be able to control it's activation as well.

I'm currently educating myself on tuning basics but I'm guessing I'll need the help of an expert to really get it right.

Maybe Phantom could be convinced to send one of his e-chargers to unichip to create map for it. I know once I get my prototype built I'd be willing to lend it to a unichip tuner if it meant getting a good map.

[BuBlake]

WOOHOO Sounds like we're finally getting a FA20 club tune! Hopefully the wait pays off. ^_^

[Dustin2JZ]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

So the Phantom eCharger is real, and it really works. Some of it's primary advantage is that it installs in < 2 hours, bolts off in < 30 minutes gives +80wtq in the dip and +30whp max. Prob is, it needs a tune to not throw a CEL in certain conditions. So far I believe the ECU has been altered with BRZedit. My question to anyone in this thread who knows Unichip (especially UnichipJack) is if Unichip is capable of resolving the issue below. If so the combination of Unichip + eCharger would make a killer combo for those looking for a DD bolt on kit that could be removed in short order and be warranty invisible. Jack, am I smoking crack here?

I am wandering the same thing. As I don't have tuners in my area "closest dyno is over 2 hours away.

[Unichip Jack]

I sent a message to the eCharger website and we'll see what theycome back with. There's nothing extraordinary about any of the issues being discussed in terms of Unichip tuning, but there are obviously a number of things we have to understand and the best way to do that is looking at a kit.

Cheers

[husker741]

Anyone install and not feel much of a difference? I'm not sure if the butt dyno isn't on point today or what, but it's not very noticeable. I'm using 92 fuel out timing in, all drop ins, all catbacks. I also have the 89 fuel in timing out for the same drop in and catbacks.

I'm using 91 octane.

[Hawk77FT]

I was wondering which map do we need to run if I have the following:
1. Drop in Air filter with Zeta intake tube
2. Over pipe and front pipe (2.75") no cat.

[Unichip Jack]

Hawk77FT... PM sent.

Cheers

[ReThink]

Originally Posted by Unichip Jack

[I]...you can use “tuning pots;” with the tuning pots “enabled” in the software, you can literally turn a knob and change the AFR as you're driving without doing a download. Once the AFR is what you want, you hit an enter button and that value is stored in the Unichip. I think that’s about as “on the fly” it gets.

Hey Jack, what are these tuning pots you speak of?

[FRSGeek]

@Unichip Jack

The upload/flash software is piss poor. Wouldn't take much to fix. Here is what I recall from last week using it.

It hangs and you have to kill it.

You do the settings and it does write out the file, but if you immediately go back to the settings it uses its defaults, not what was last used and last saved.

When you load it again, it doesn't use the settings in the file to populate the UI in settings.

The file dialog box drive and path letters are not localized fully. I get a "C:[]" instead of a "C:\" The box is shown here as two letters, but I am talking about one.

There is no history of files flashed, nor does the F/W store the file name if you later then download it. You shouldn't rename it by default, but point to a folder and get the name from the Unichip ROM. The file name could be compressed and would not take that much space in the F/W. It doesn't need code and can be ignore. Let the PC compress/uncompress the text.

I think there is one or two more things, but can't recall now. I'll update this when I think of them.

Regards,
Ron