Question with adding a subwoofer

[kuhlka]

Originally Posted by Spaceywilly

I am going to try to use the stock amp location in the trunk and replace it with a 4 channel amp. I'd like to use those subwoofer outputs for the signal instead of using the front L/R signal that is already there in the trunk.

I took a look at the amp in the trunk and I don't think the power going to that amp is going to cut it. It was a very thin gauge wire and just run off a 15A fuse, so I think I'd be blowing that fuse even with my 200W amp. The good news is the L/R signal coming from the radio is there, and the wiring to the front door speakers is there, so I should be able to tap into that to wire in a 4 channel amp.

wiring diagram


location of amp (power connector is on the right)


closeup of signal connnector


The wires going into this connector are:
(1 is at the bottom left of the connector in the photo, 10 is the top right)
1 - Pink (looks orange?) - Left speaker +
2 - Blue - Right speaker +
3 - Light Green - Left signal +
4 - White - Right signal +
5 - Violet - Left speaker -
6 - Red - Right speaker -
8 - Green - remote signal
9 - Yellow - Left Signal -
10 - Sky Blue - Right signal -

Can the Green #8 wire be used as the remote amp on wire? I just ordered this to create an RCA connection from 3/9 4/10. http://amzn.com/B009B8EJYU

[RandomHero]

Originally Posted by jeebus

not sure if this ever got cleared up here or somewhere else (I didn't see it), but I used the signal connectors (3,4,9, and 10) as described above as low-level inputs to my aftermarket amp/sub without issue.

They actually functioned as RCA inputs? Those would technically be speaker level inputs because those are coming from the HU and the same signal is shared with the dash speakers.

[kuhlka]

Originally Posted by RandomHero

They actually functioned as RCA inputs? Those would technically be speaker level inputs because those are coming from the HU and the same signal is shared with the dash speakers.

I'll be doing a how-to video for YouTube when I get this working. Seems like people have been leaving out way too many details and photos of the exact process to make this job easy on us.

[RandomHero]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I'll be doing a how-to video for YouTube when I get this working. Seems like people have been leaving out way too many details and photos of the exact process to make this job easy on us.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

like that?

[kuhlka]

Originally Posted by RandomHero

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

like that?

Much more step-by-step detail and I'll be leaving the stock components alone. I'm adding a 10" sub with a PBR300X1 amp. Worked great in my STI. Should be more than enough for the BRZ and not take up a ton of space. Hoping to have the job done this weekend if the wiring bits arrive in the mail this week.

http://amzn.com/B0068XYNH4

http://amzn.com/B004T163PW

[kuhlka]

I got my amp and sub working. I'll do a YouTube how-to this week to show the steps and what to tap into. Posi-Taps made tapping into the amp wires a cakewalk.

You'll want 22AWG taps for the amp wires. Seems like the above 300w 10" setup is about perfect, but it has seriously revealed the shortcomings of the head unit. There is no way to turn the sub on/off from the head unit, adjust the signal output, and there are no crossovers on the front door speakers so they're still trying to push the low lows. Next thing I'll try is a speaker upgrade when I've got the spare cash and do components with crossovers.

[mikeharris0592]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I got my amp and sub working. I'll do a YouTube how-to this week to show the steps and what to tap into. Posi-Taps made tapping into the amp wires a cakewalk.

You'll want 22AWG taps for the amp wires. Seems like the above 300w 10" setup is about perfect, but it has seriously revealed the shortcomings of the head unit. There is no way to turn the sub on/off from the head unit, adjust the signal output, and there are no crossovers on the front door speakers so they're still trying to push the low lows. Next thing I'll try is a speaker upgrade when I've got the spare cash and do components with crossovers.

a youtube how to would be great. I comprehend everything so far but not sure which speakers the amp in the rear controls. The diagram confused me a bit. it seems that there are only two speakers powered by this amp? I'm under the assumption from reading through the thread that the amp controls the door speakers but then where are the other speakers amplified from? why split these off into different amplifiers?

[WolfSongX]

Originally Posted by mikeharris0592

a youtube how to would be great. I comprehend everything so far but not sure which speakers the amp in the rear controls. The diagram confused me a bit. it seems that there are only two speakers powered by this amp? I'm under the assumption from reading through the thread that the amp controls the door speakers but then where are the other speakers amplified from? why split these off into different amplifiers?

They are amplified from the head unit internally. Not sure what the stock door setup pulls, power-wise, but since these are handling the bass in a 3-way setup, they are pulling more power than the space and heat considerations of the stock head unit would allow and stay reliable. Considering that a few of these amps for the door speakers have failed, it probably means that even this amp isn't up to the task.

One recommendation I have is that Wire Taps, in general, do not make for good connections. Most types actually damage the wires they are tapping into and introduce a point of failure, especially if the wire will be vibrating.. In car audio you want good solid connections or else you get lousy sound. It is well worth it to take a bit more time, get a soldering iron, solder and some shrink wrap and learn to splice wires properly. You will definitely be able to hear a difference compared to splices done by taps and will have solid reliable connections for years to come.

[kuhlka]

I'm going to do a better video later (recently moved, better lighting), but this should help for now. All of my wiring except the positive lead for the battery are coming from he amp in the trunk.

[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ma5s8GLOd7w[/ame]

[Dsmith1992]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I got my amp and sub working. I'll do a YouTube how-to this week to show the steps and what to tap into. Posi-Taps made tapping into the amp wires a cakewalk.

You'll want 22AWG taps for the amp wires. Seems like the above 300w 10" setup is about perfect, but it has seriously revealed the shortcomings of the head unit. There is no way to turn the sub on/off from the head unit, adjust the signal output, and there are no crossovers on the front door speakers so they're still trying to push the low lows. Next thing I'll try is a speaker upgrade when I've got the spare cash and do components with crossovers.

I saw the vid a couple of days ago and will be doin the same thing when my car gets back from the shop in a couple of weeks. So do i just need to use my Line out converter to tap into the factory amp for this to work?

[kuhlka]

Originally Posted by Dsmith1992

I saw the vid a couple of days ago and will be doin the same thing when my car gets back from the shop in a couple of weeks. So do i just need to use my Line out converter to tap into the factory amp for this to work?

I'm going to do a better video eventually. All of the wires to the amp can run from the factory amp, even the ground. I have the four line out wires going into my RCA adapter wires. With all of the taps in there, it's tricky to see what's what, but I've had zero issues with my amp and sub thus far. It'd just be nice to get a custom enclosure sorted to free up some trunk space.

[mrlizard]

I have had a quick flick though this tread and thought I would ask here instead of starting a new thread.

I'm just about to add a sub (fusion slimline with built in amp) now my head unit has a RCA cables that support sub output and also my amp that is running my other speakers also have a spot where I can plug in a sub or link another amp to it.

My question is where is it best to plug this slim line sub into
Head unit?
Amp sub out? or
Amp to extra amp??

[labskaus]

I am a bit scared because of the powercable. I would suggest to put it into some protection sleeve? And put it into the cabletunnel of the car (5min of work). I do not know how you connect to the ground pole of the batterie (or the way to it). If you go through the cars body, it is a good idea to strenghten the connector between battery and ground pole of the batterie

[Dsmith1992]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

I'm going to do a better video eventually. All of the wires to the amp can run from the factory amp, even the ground. I have the four line out wires going into my RCA adapter wires. With all of the taps in there, it's tricky to see what's what, but I've had zero issues with my amp and sub thus far. It'd just be nice to get a custom enclosure sorted to free up some trunk space.

K well i am getting my car back finally hopefully end of next week, but will be installing it in two weeks. i saw your amp had a different set of wire than mine for the wiring, if i take my Line out converter from PAC its the PAC LP7-2 LOC Pro, and just use the positaps i have ordered. Then just connect them to to appropriate wires on the amp it should work? I am just wanting to have a good idea of doin this, b4 i do it, better than goin in blind and blowin something up. As well do you think a 2 or 0 gauge power wire will fit along the side panels to run, cause i got a big amp (Kicker zx1500.1) and powering two subs (10" alpine Type r)