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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#15 |
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I would strongly suggest you check the internet on what is recommended after you change tires... there are plenty of answers. And if you feel you dont need to, its entirely up to you. The issue is that tires wear in conjuntion with the wear on your suspension components. When you are introducing a new tire and new wheel into the equation, the very factor that has resulted in the current set up is changed... Its like wearing shoes. how does an older shoe feel better than old shoes? Because the old shoe has been worn to reflect the walking patterns of the individual... the new shoe has not. But in the case of cars, they dont adjust themselves as with humans... perhaps that is a better comparison...
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#16 | |
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Unless you're coming up with different alignment specs based on wheel width/offset and tire width there is simply no need for such frequent alignments. Yes alignments will drift, and after a 3-4 years it's probably smart to have it re-aligned, but the reason is age and km's driven not the fact that new tires/wheels will fit different. By your logic I should be getting two alignments per year, every time I swap between summer and winter wheels. When I get more competitive with track events I'll definitely get it aligned at the start of every race season, but for the average street driven car that is simply overkill.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wparsons For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#17 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to raul For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#18 |
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Your not gunna fit in the front with 17x9+44 on stock spring size. Even +42 with a 5mm spacer was mad close.
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#19 |
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Thats pretty neat
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I switched from the stock wheels and tires to 18x9.5 +38 all around with 255/40 front and 265/40 rear.....my alignments still spot on, and handles like a god dang f1 car(exageration).
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#20 | |
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I'm going to put my car on a rack, see that adjustable toe is within factory specs, along with caster and camber. Then I'm going to put new wheels and tires on and put it on the rack again. All the numbers are identical! EVERY TIME! If anyone without something to sell suggests an alignment when you get new tires, it's because they're talking to my mom who gets new tires every 50k miles and is due for an alignment anyway.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to qoncept For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#21 | |
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unless that's what you had, I dunno.
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#22 | ||
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#23 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wparsons For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#24 |
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Exactly. Like replacing your water pump when you replace your timing belt. It's probably working fine, but after 100k, while you're in there for a timing belt it just makes sense.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to qoncept For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#25 | |
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NCE about his herraflush tire size choice...Im taking offset and wheel clearance in reguards to stock front spring size.
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#26 |
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our source is not the internet... we have worked with alignment shops over the past 30 years that do specific work on high performance street and race cars... thats their recommendation...
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#27 |
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It may not be your source, but you did encourage the previous poster to look in the Internet for information regarding your recommendations.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to raul For This Useful Post: | yoshiharadesign (07-16-2013) |
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#28 | |
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As to recommendations, one of the easier source to help most people find out other than asking alignment shops can find some useful information through tire rack... here is their take( no affliation) Hope the information is helpful to others: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4 While it's often referred to simply as an "alignment" or "wheel alignment," it's really complex suspension angles that are being measured and a variety of suspension components that are being adjusted. This makes an alignment an important suspension-tuning tool that greatly influences the operation of the vehicle's tires. Out-of-alignment conditions occur when the suspension and steering systems are not operating at their desired angles. Out-of-alignment conditions are most often caused by spring sag or suspension wear (ball joints, bushings, etc.) on an older vehicle. They can also be the result of an impact with a pothole or curb, or a change in vehicle ride height (lowered or raised) on any vehicle regardless of age. Incorrect alignment settings will usually result in more rapid tire wear. Therefore, alignment should be checked whenever new tires or suspension components are installed, and any time unusual tire wear patterns appear. Alignment should also be checked after the vehicle has encountered a major road hazard or curb. Alignment Ranges The vehicle manufacturers' alignment specifications usually identify a "preferred" angle for camber, caster and toe (with preferred thrust angle always being zero). The manufacturers also provide the acceptable "minimum" and "maximum" angles for each specification. The minimum and maximum camber and caster specifications typically result in a range that remains within plus or minus 1-degree of the preferred angle. If for whatever reason your vehicle can't reach within the acceptable range, replacing bent parts or an aftermarket alignment kit will be required. Fortunately there is a kit for almost every popular vehicle due to the needs of body and frame shops doing crash repairs and driving enthusiasts tuning the suspensions on their cars. Recommendations An accurate wheel alignment is critical to balance the treadwear and performance a vehicle's tires deliver. Regular wheel alignments will usually save you as much in tire wear as they cost, and should be considered routine, preventative maintenance. Since there are "acceptable" ranges provided in the manufacturer's recommendations, the technician should be encouraged to align the vehicle to the preferred settings and not just within the range. If you are a reserved driver, aligning your vehicle to the vehicle manufacturer's preferred settings is appropriate. If you are an assertive driver who enjoys driving hard through the corners and expressway ramps, a performance alignment is appropriate for your car. A performance alignment consists of using the vehicle manufacturer's range of alignment specifications to maximize the tires' performance. A performance alignment calls for the manufacturer's maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster, and preferred toe settings. While remaining within the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, these alignment settings will maximize tire performance. If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments. Many of today's alignment machines are equipped with printouts that compare the "before" and "after" alignment angles with the manufacturers' specifications. Requesting a post alignment printout can help you confirm the thoroughness of the alignment technician and preserve a record of your vehicle's intended settings in the case of an encounter with a suspension damaging road hazard. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to yoshiharadesign For This Useful Post: | John.Hong (07-16-2013) |
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