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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#29 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BRZdrifter For This Useful Post: | TylerLieberman (07-04-2013) |
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#30 |
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Just my .02
With the NA build that will be money and I personally don't see the point in doing that if you are going FI in the future. I feel you would be better off with just the simple bolt-ons and a tune. After that suspension work and lighten the car a bit. Consider this fact: A friend of mine tracks this car and he stayed NA. He blew his motor. Now from what I have heard these boxer engines aren't too reliable (but I guess that depends on driving habits). Now the goals are probably achievable but IF it is your only car I wouldn't rag on it so much. Good luck with your build though and if you are trying to get good power and you know you are going FI in the future, wait it out. Bolt-ons and a tune and be happy |
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#31 | |
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Now of the 2 people I know personally who went turbo, one blew his motor and the other is still having oil issues 4 months later (still R&D stage I guess as I don't think that specific tuner/shop is selling their own kit yet). |
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#32 |
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Boxer engines are highly reliable, i think its more user error then manufacturing/design error
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#33 |
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Yeah these motors are pretty stout. Either driver error or shit tuning in my opinion.
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#34 | ||
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#35 |
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Have you been for a ride? Or even better, driven one?
![]() The problem with NA power on this car is that the compression ratio is already pretty high and we're only getting 200hp at the crank.
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#36 |
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I assume you want to get to 220 whp?
IF that is the case you will need to gain roughly +55 whp (220-165=55) to your vehicle without FI. This will be hard to achieve, however, you can get close to 220. I have created a similar thread in the past and this is what I learned along the way. Consider these options/estimates:
So, essentially, you can estimate a +40 whp gain while still keeping the car naturally aspirated. This would put you at 205 whp approx. --------------- Going the forced induction kit route could cost you at a minimum $5,500+ (not including labor) for gains anywhere between +75 whp (5-7psi) to +185 whp (8-12 psi). Again your location also plays a big role in how much power you can gain from your car. Certain factors like climate/temperature and elevation play a role too. Hope that helps and sorry if I am not roughly accurate. |
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#37 | |
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I just want a bit more power and keep the response with no turbo lag, for a dd i dont want turbo cause i know i have bad self control and i be wasting a ton more gas. If i retire my car from dd duties i wouldnt mind turbo cause i be driving it less but that wont be for years. And of course its way harder to make power in NA thats why i wanna see a good build, na builds usually cost way more and you dont even come close to FI power with the same money put in. |
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#38 | |
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#39 | |
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But as @forzajuve just posted, look at the money to hp ratio.
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#40 |
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Lol your getting way better mpg then me with turbo compared to my few bolt ons, but here in canada we have shit gas best i can get is 91 no ethanol, but good to know that the turbo doesnt lag much. What kit are you using?
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#41 | |
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Any info would be good.
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#42 | |
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Well I did the math by hand the first time and now I use the cars calculation. This is the Full Blown kit. Tuned by Pure Automotive & Full Blown at 9psi. I'll get real numbers once I'm on the dyno next Sat but the est power at this moment is a little over 300whp (hopefully the dyno proves it). Similar cars are supposed to be ~310whp. Still on stock internals and will be for a while. Not looking for anything too crazy yet. I'm not even able to push this configuration to its full potential at the track yet.
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