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Old 07-04-2013, 07:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by TylerLieberman View Post
I would just do a filter. Seems like an actual intake is useless for the money. I see air filters yield same gains and cost $50 compared to $350.

Just my thought.

Now Im no expert, however:

The thing is that the car is a 2 liter high compression motor making 200bhp which equals 100hp per liter. To the wheels, the car makes ~160 depending on location, elevation etc etc. A FULL exhaust from the header back I have seen gain almost 20whp with a tune. An intake/filter will get you another 3-5 maybe.

That being said, just with bolt ons and a tune, you're looking about 180-190whp. That's the equivalent of how much at the crank? Around 230bhp? That's 215hp per liter which is almost as much as the F20C motor in the S2000. That's pretty impressive in my opinion. By working the internals a bit, I'm sure you could squeeze out another 10 or so whp but I'm not sure.

E85 tune is honestly the best bet. I've seen dyno results where people a making 200whp+ just on intake, catback and E85 tune.
Yea man your quite right just had a look/read at your build the tire has sen better days you gotta this car its just great
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:17 PM   #30
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Just my .02

With the NA build that will be money and I personally don't see the point in doing that if you are going FI in the future. I feel you would be better off with just the simple bolt-ons and a tune. After that suspension work and lighten the car a bit.

Consider this fact:
A friend of mine tracks this car and he stayed NA. He blew his motor. Now from what I have heard these boxer engines aren't too reliable (but I guess that depends on driving habits).

Now the goals are probably achievable but IF it is your only car I wouldn't rag on it so much. Good luck with your build though and if you are trying to get good power and you know you are going FI in the future, wait it out. Bolt-ons and a tune and be happy
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #31
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Just my .02

With the NA build that will be money and I personally don't see the point in doing that if you are going FI in the future. I feel you would be better off with just the simple bolt-ons and a tune. After that suspension work and lighten the car a bit.

Consider this fact:
A friend of mine tracks this car and he stayed NA. He blew his motor. Now from what I have heard these boxer engines aren't too reliable (but I guess that depends on driving habits).

Now the goals are probably achievable but IF it is your only car I wouldn't rag on it so much. Good luck with your build though and if you are trying to get good power and you know you are going FI in the future, wait it out. Bolt-ons and a tune and be happy
Boxers in general or just the FA20? And honestly that is the first person I really heard who blew a stock motor beyond the issues that were common to the early release cars.

Now of the 2 people I know personally who went turbo, one blew his motor and the other is still having oil issues 4 months later (still R&D stage I guess as I don't think that specific tuner/shop is selling their own kit yet).
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:55 PM   #32
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Boxer engines are highly reliable, i think its more user error then manufacturing/design error
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:59 PM   #33
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Yeah these motors are pretty stout. Either driver error or shit tuning in my opinion.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:11 PM   #34
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Yeah these motors are pretty stout. Either driver error or shit tuning in my opinion.
Ehh it can be a number of factors. I personally think it might have been driver related but idk. In my experience I have always heard of problems and I know specific tuners like to stay away from those motors. I just know what I want out of this car

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Boxers in general or just the FA20? And honestly that is the first person I really heard who blew a stock motor beyond the issues that were common to the early release cars.

Now of the 2 people I know personally who went turbo, one blew his motor and the other is still having oil issues 4 months later (still R&D stage I guess as I don't think that specific tuner/shop is selling their own kit yet).
I am sure these blocks are fine but it just leaves one to wonder how much abuse they can stand up to because everybody has different driving habits
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:31 PM   #35
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Ya i wanna see a good na build, not everyone wants turbo...
Have you been for a ride? Or even better, driven one?

The problem with NA power on this car is that the compression ratio is already pretty high and we're only getting 200hp at the crank.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:39 PM   #36
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I assume you want to get to 220 whp?

IF that is the case you will need to gain roughly +55 whp (220-165=55) to your vehicle without FI.

This will be hard to achieve, however, you can get close to 220. I have created a similar thread in the past and this is what I learned along the way. Consider these options/estimates:

  • ECUTek Tune, Stage 2 from FA20Club.com = +20 whp
  • Exhaust + Header + CAI = +15-25 whp (roughly)
Those 4 items would cost you at a minimum, $2500 (not including cost of labor) for +40 whp.



So, essentially, you can estimate a +40 whp gain while still keeping the car naturally aspirated. This would put you at 205 whp approx.
---------------
Going the forced induction kit route could cost you at a minimum $5,500+ (not including labor) for gains anywhere between +75 whp (5-7psi) to +185 whp (8-12 psi).


Again your location also plays a big role in how much power you can gain from your car. Certain factors like climate/temperature and elevation play a role too.



Hope that helps and sorry if I am not roughly accurate.


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Old 07-04-2013, 11:48 PM   #37
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Have you been for a ride? Or even better, driven one?

The problem with NA power on this car is that the compression ratio is already pretty high and we're only getting 200hp at the crank.
Are you asking if i have rode or driven a turbo 86? No i havent
I just want a bit more power and keep the response with no turbo lag, for a dd i dont want turbo cause i know i have bad self control and i be wasting a ton more gas. If i retire my car from dd duties i wouldnt mind turbo cause i be driving it less but that wont be for years.
And of course its way harder to make power in NA thats why i wanna see a good build, na builds usually cost way more and you dont even come close to FI power with the same money put in.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:56 PM   #38
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Ehh it can be a number of factors. I personally think it might have been driver related but idk. In my experience I have always heard of problems and I know specific tuners like to stay away from those motors. I just know what I want out of this car



I am sure these blocks are fine but it just leaves one to wonder how much abuse they can stand up to because everybody has different driving habits
Tuners are iffy on this car because of d4s, not the engine. In terms of what they can take maybe read up or ask people like Evasive Motorsports or FT86 Speed Factory about it. They both have cars they drive the piss out of on the track on what I think are stock internals. Im not saying your wrong but I think it may be putting questions into peoples heads that aren't really true.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:05 AM   #39
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Are you asking if i have rode or driven a turbo 86? No i havent
I just want a bit more power and keep the response with no turbo lag, for a dd i dont want turbo cause i know i have bad self control and i be wasting a ton more gas. If i retire my car from dd duties i wouldnt mind turbo cause i be driving it less but that wont be for years.
And of course its way harder to make power in NA thats why i wanna see a good build, na builds usually cost way more and you dont even come close to FI power with the same money put in.
For a DD I would recommend a supercharger. But when I take my car out for a drive it's pretty easy to drive. From NC to MD I got an average of 27 mpg. Around town with me getting on it pretty good from time to time I get 24-25mpg. And turbo lag on this set up basically none. Seriously.

But as @forzajuve just posted, look at the money to hp ratio.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:14 AM   #40
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Lol your getting way better mpg then me with turbo compared to my few bolt ons, but here in canada we have shit gas best i can get is 91 no ethanol, but good to know that the turbo doesnt lag much. What kit are you using?
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:22 AM   #41
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For a DD I would recommend a supercharger. But when I take my car out for a drive it's pretty easy to drive. From NC to MD I got an average of 27 mpg. Around town with me getting on it pretty good from time to time I get 24-25mpg. And turbo lag on this set up basically none. Seriously.

But as @forzajuve just posted, look at the money to hp ratio.
So I was curious as to what kind of set up you are running if you don't mind me asking. The car is impressive and feedback on the FI setup that you have would be interesting to know. PSI levels, still stock internals, etc.

Any info would be good.
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:06 AM   #42
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Lol your getting way better mpg then me with turbo compared to my few bolt ons, but here in canada we have shit gas best i can get is 91 no ethanol, but good to know that the turbo doesnt lag much. What kit are you using?

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So I was curious as to what kind of set up you are running if you don't mind me asking. The car is impressive and feedback on the FI setup that you have would be interesting to know. PSI levels, still stock internals, etc.

Any info would be good.
Well I did the math by hand the first time and now I use the cars calculation. This is the Full Blown kit. Tuned by Pure Automotive & Full Blown at 9psi. I'll get real numbers once I'm on the dyno next Sat but the est power at this moment is a little over 300whp (hopefully the dyno proves it). Similar cars are supposed to be ~310whp. Still on stock internals and will be for a while. Not looking for anything too crazy yet. I'm not even able to push this configuration to its full potential at the track yet.
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