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[bignrichlll]

Originally Posted by Yruyur

Who posted the pics of the house of kolors paint in our thread. I need to speak to that individual.

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Thats me bruh.. You likey?

[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by SpyderMS

Side Note: For tomorrow's track day, I will have about half a tank of 91 octane when I pass by Love's. Should I fill up on 100 octane (effectively giving me about 95-96 octane) or is it not really worth it if my car is bone stock, and this being my first time at a track?

You'll burn most of it off by the time you get here. There's a station here with 100 octane gas, though it's more money, or you can get a 5 gallon gas can, put 100 octane in it, fill your tank up in phoenix and by the time you reach the track, you should be able to get most of that 5 gallons back into the car.

[Ninjin]

The Tucson station is actually only $0.50/gallon more. A gas can would cost more than that.

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[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

June 22nd @ Tucson Kart track HPDE/FRS night

1. redleader +1
2. ninjun
3. SpyderMS
4. Mattles
5. bignrich
6. 40flash
7. CaptainJack
8. Jasper
9. WithNoLock
10. GotM
11. Boblhead
12. edgary
13.
14.
15.

I'm bringing a cooler with ice, so if some of you want things kept cold, I got you covered. Ninjin: if you wouldn't mind bringing your tire pressure gauge and mini air pump that would be sweet.



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[40flash]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

I'm bringing a cooler with ice, so if some of you want things kept cold, I got you covered. Ninjin: if you wouldn't mind bringing your tire pressure gauge and mini air pump that would be sweet.



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I am bringing an air tank and gauge also.

Are we stopping at this gas station in Tuscon then. I assume that someone in the group knows where it is?

[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by 40flash

I am bringing an air tank and gauge also.

Are we stopping at this gas station in Tuscon then. I assume that someone in the group knows where it is?

It's a bit north of the track, the Shell station on Houghton and Valencia. It might be easier to get to the track, then drive up to the station, but it's up to you guys.

Here's a map basically from the Loves station by LM, to the shell station for 100 octane gas, then to the track.
http://goo.gl/maps/cNttC

[SpyderMS]

Originally Posted by Evil86

The car was designed to run on 93, just saying.

Oh yeah, I know it will work fine, just wondering if the performance difference, if any, was worth the cost of the gas itself.

[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by SpyderMS

Oh yeah, I know it will work fine, just wondering if the performance difference, if any, was worth the cost of the gas itself.

If you reset your ECU (pull the negative battery terminal for ~1minute, then allow car to idle until it stabilizes) it will handle the new timing quicker. Anything over 93oct, the car should be at full timing advance, for whatever thats worth on a non-FI car. I have an approximate octane rating of 96.1 in the tank right now and I'm not sure if the tiny difference in throttle response and power is butt-dyno, an effect of resetting the ECU, the actual gas, or a combination. Either way, it can't do any BAD except to my wallet, so we'll see. I think my new brake pads will have a bigger effect on lap times than the gas, as will, i'm sure, gutting the rear end; but we'll see tonight.

[SpyderMS]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

If you reset your ECU (pull the negative battery terminal for ~1minute, then allow car to idle until it stabilizes)

Just clarifying... pull the negative terminal while the car is running?

Sounds like there probably isn't a whole lot of advantage to it... might be worth saving the money, lol. Especially on my first run... I won't be able to take advantage of it.

[Yruyur]

Car is all shiny. Jesus. It was nice and cool so while I was doing the clay bar I figured I would just do the entire car at once rather than a panel at a time and wiping it clean....big mistake. The clay dried in spots all over my car. Bad ones. Second wash didn't take them off. I had to do the entire car with detailing spray and a towel and actually having to put elbow grease into it. That took about an hour alone. No auto parts places were open to get any polish.... I have learned my lesson.

Ooooo shiny though.

Zzzzzzzzzz

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[EZWood]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

If you reset your ECU (pull the negative battery terminal for ~1minute, then allow car to idle until it stabilizes) it will handle the new timing quicker. Anything over 93oct, the car should be at full timing advance, for whatever thats worth on a non-FI car. I have an approximate octane rating of 96.1 in the tank right now and I'm not sure if the tiny difference in throttle response and power is butt-dyno, an effect of resetting the ECU, the actual gas, or a combination. Either way, it can't do any BAD except to my wallet, so we'll see. I think my new brake pads will have a bigger effect on lap times than the gas, as will, i'm sure, gutting the rear end; but we'll see tonight.

I'm not sure the whole resetting the ecu thing is such a good idea unless you do it a couple of days before the event. In my experience when my ecu was reset it took about two days worth of driving to get the smoothness and power back in my car. I have also ran some 100 octane through my car, which my butt dyno registered an improvement immediately. Whether or not the improvement was tangible or just in my head is not a certain thing I don't know, but that's my opinion on the whole pulling power from the battery to have the ecu relearn everything for running a higher octane.

[EZWood]

Originally Posted by SpyderMS

Just clarifying... pull the negative terminal while the car is running?

Sounds like there probably isn't a whole lot of advantage to it... might be worth saving the money, lol. Especially on my first run... I won't be able to take advantage of it.

You pull it with the car off, but I don't think it would be very beneficial considering how soon the event is.

[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by SpyderMS

Just clarifying... pull the negative terminal while the car is running?

Sounds like there probably isn't a whole lot of advantage to it... might be worth saving the money, lol. Especially on my first run... I won't be able to take advantage of it.

Not while running! Though since I've never done that I don't know exactly what would happen.
1. Turn car off, keys out of ignition
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal
3. Wait 30-60 seconds
4. Reconnect battery
5. Turn car on
6. Allow car to idle until rpm drops from ~1100 to around 600.
7. Drive as normal, fuel trims, timing, ecu mapping will all be reset, so keep that in mind.

As EZWood said, it may take awhile to fully relearn everything, but a few laps around the track SHOULD allow it to relearn the needed trims and mapping for the track at least. But also as EZWood said, it might not help you. I did mine yesterday, everything seems to be working normally now.


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[EZWood]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

Not while running! Though since I've never done that I don't know exactly what would happen.
1. Turn car off, keys out of ignition
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal
3. Wait 30-60 seconds
4. Reconnect battery
5. Turn car on
6. Allow car to idle until rpm drops from ~1100 to around 600.
7. Drive as normal, fuel trims, timing, ecu mapping will all be reset, so keep that in mind.

As EZWood said, it may take awhile to fully relearn everything, but a few laps around the track SHOULD allow it to relearn the needed trims and mapping for the track at least. But also as EZWood said, it might not help you. I did mine yesterday, everything seems to be working normally now.


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I guess it would depend on how much driving you do. Maybe the drive to Tucson would be enough to accomplish your goals. Whatever is done there would be a benefit from running higher octane with this heat we have out here.