30k Service Details

[danthedirt]

So I plan on doing my own 30k service now that my complementary services are over
In trying to figure out what is services are recommended; I figured I'd post what my finding on what you should inspect and change along with DIY's where applicable. Please let me know if there is something I missed.


Fuel Cap Gasket - Inspect

Fuel Lines/Tank - Inspect
The fuel line is located mostly internally, so check pipes, areas near pipes, and engine compartment piping
for rust, hose damage, loose bands and fuel leakage. If faulty parts are found, repair or replace them.

Drive Belts - Inspect
1) Check the V-belt for cracks, tear or wear.
2) Check the V-belt tensioner assembly and idler pulley for deformation, cracks or other damages.
3) Check that the V-belt ribs are securely placed on the rib grooves for each pulleys.
DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10227

Oil and Filter - Change
The FR-S will use Synthetic 0w20 weight engine oil. It will use 5.7 Quarts
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221

Air Filter - Change
Check that the air cleaner element has no deformation, cracks or other damages.
Check the air cleaner element for excessive dirt.
(Drop in air filter DIY)
DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34343

Radiator- Inspect
1) Check that the radiator does not have deformation, cracks or damage.
2) Check that the hose has no cracks, damage or loose part.
3) Check that there is no engine coolant leakage from the hose connection parts.
4) Remove the radiator cap, fill the radiator with engine coolant, and then install the radiator cap tester to the
filler neck of radiator.
5) Apply a pressure of 157 kPa (1.6 kgf/cm2, 23 psi) to the radiator, and check the following items.
•Leakage from the radiator or its vicinity
•Leakage from the hose or its connections

Coolant - Inspect
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Check that the reservoir tank fluid level is between the FULL and LOW lines when the engine is cool.

Uses Subaru Long life BLUE coolant. First change is 137,500 or 132 months

Automatic Transmission Fluid - Inspect
Check for leakage of ATF oil from the transmission.

Fluid level will not be able to be service without Toyota special service tools and Toyota specific operating conditions

Fluid will be inspected every 30,000 miles or 30 months and will be replaced every 60,000 miles or 60 months and uses Toyota Specific World Standard fluid with capacities of 7.9 quarts

Manual Transmission: TL70
Check for leakage of gear oil from the transmission.

Fluid will be API-GL-3 75w90 and should be inspected every 22.5 months or 22,500 miles, replaced as needed by inspection.

DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=482511

Limited Slip Torsen Differential - Inspect (Change recommended)
Check for leakage of gear oil from the rear differential.

Fluid type: API GL-5 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear oil LX, will hold 1.22 quarts and should be inspected every 7.5 months or 7,500 miles.

DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=482511

In Cabin Filter - Inspect
(recommended to replace every 15k)
DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=602819

Brakes and rotors- Inspect
1) Lift up the vehicle, and remove the wheels.
2) Visually check the pad thickness through inspection hole of disc brake assembly. Replace the pad if necessary. (refer to service manual for specs)

Brake Pedal
1) Move the brake pedal pads in a horizontal direction with a force of approx. 10 N (1 kgf, 2 lbf), and chec
that the pedal deflection is in the range of specifications.

Brake lines - inspect
1) Check for scratches, swelling, corrosion, traces of fluid leakage on the brake hoses or pipe joints.
2) Make sure that brake pipes/hoses do not interfere with adjacent parts and there is no loose connector/
clamp during driving.
3) Check any trace of fluid leakage, scratches, etc. on master cylinder, wheel cylinder and hydraulic unit.

Brake Master Cylinder - Inspect
1) With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times applying the same pedal force. Check that the
travel distance should not change.
2) With the brake pedal depressed, start the engine. Check that the pedal moves slightly toward the floor.
3) With the brake pedal depressed, stop the engine and keep the pedal depressed for 30 seconds. Check
that the pedal height does not change.
4) A check valve is built into the vacuum hose. Remove the vacuum hose to inspect function of check valve.

Brake Fulid - Change Fluid
1) Check that the amount of brake fluid is between the lines of “MIN” and “MAX” from a straight view or within
90° to the right and left forward.
If out of the specified range, refill with brake fluid or drain the fluid.
If the brake fluid level is close to “MIN”, check the brake pad for wear and refill with brake fluid.
2) Check the fluid for discoloration. If the fluid isextremely discolored, replace with the new fluid.

DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20311

Wheels and Tires - Rotate
1) When the tread has worn to less than 1.6 mm (0.063 in) or the tread wear indicator appears across the
tread, replace the tire. (Replace the right and left tire as a set.)
2) If the tire appears to be worn unevenly, adjust the wheel alignment.
3) Next, make a tire rotation between front and rear, make sure tires are worn evenly.

DIY:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=678993

Parking Brake - Inspect
1) Measure the inner diameter of the rear disc rotor. If scoring or worn is found on the disc, replace the rear
disc rotor.
Disc rotor inner diameter:
Specification: 190 mm (7.48 in)
Service limit: 191 mm (7.52 in)
2) Measure the lining thickness. If it exceeds the limit, replace the parking brake shoe.
Lining thickness:
Specification: 3.5 mm (0.14 in)
Service limit: 1.5 mm (0.059 in)
NOTE:
Replace the right and left parking brake shoe as a set.

E-Brake Lever - Inspect
1) Adjust the parking shoe clearance before adjusting lever stroke.
2) Release the claws, and then remove the boot - parking brake.
3) Pull the lever assembly - hand brake hard 3 to 5 times.
4) Turn the adjusting nut until the lever stroke is at the specified value.
Lever stroke:
7 to 8 notches when pulled with a force of 200 N (20.4 kgf, 45 lbf)
5) Check there is no brake drag.
6) Check that the brake warning light illuminates when the lever assembly - hand brake is operated.
NOTE:
The light must illuminate when the first notch is reached after pulling the lever.
7) Install the boot - parking brake.

Steering Gearbox - Inspect
1) Set the steering wheel in the straight position, then rotate it 90° in both the left and right directions.
While steering wheel is being rotated, check the looseness of the gearbox.
2) Check the boot for damage, cracks or deterioration.
3) With the vehicle stopped on a level surface, quickly turn the steering wheel to the left and right.
While steering wheel is being rotated, check the gear backlash. If any noise is noticed, adjust the gear back
lash.

Clutch - Inspect
Move the clutch pedal in the lateral direction with a force of approximately 10 N (1 kgf, 2 lbf) to check the clutch pedal deflection is within the service limit.
CAUTION:
If it exceeds the service limit, replace the clutch pedal assembly with a new part.


Ball joints - inspect
Front:
1) Lift up the vehicle until front wheels are off ground.
2) Grasp the bottom of tire and move it in and out in axial direction. If movement (B) is observed between the
brake disc cover (A) and end of front arm (D), ball joint (C) may be excessively worn.
3) Next, grasp the end of front arm (C) and move it up and down. If movement (A) between the housing (D)
and front arm (C) boss is observed, ball joint (B) may be excessively worn.
4) If the relative movement is observed in the preceding two steps, remove and inspect the front arm assembly. If the free play exceeds standard value, replace the front arm assembly.
5) Damage of dust boots
Visually inspect the ball joint dust boots. Replace if the front arm assembly is damaged.

Rear:1) Lift up the vehicle until rear wheels are off ground.
2) Grasp the bottom of tire and move it in and out in axial direction.
3) If movement is observed between the brake disc cover (A) and end of front lateral link (B), ball joint may
be excessively worn.
4) Grasp the end of front lateral link (B) and move it up and down. If movement is observed between the
housing (C) and front lateral link (B) boss, ball joint may be excessively worn.
PM-88
5) If the movement related to the previous two steps is observed, replace the front lateral link.


Please consult the service manual for specifics.
If you are not sure of what you are doing, save your self the headache and money and seek a professional.

[TRD_86]

Good stuff.
Mine is coming soon for 30k diy oil change. I have few box of mobile synthetic 5w-30. I'm just curious if it can be substitute for 0w-20 w/o major problem ?

[Bt216]

Originally Posted by TRD_86

Good stuff.
Mine is coming soon for 30k diy oil change. I have few box of mobile synthetic 5w-30. I'm just curious if it can be substitute for 0w-20 w/o major problem ?

I used some 5w30 and 5w20 in my first oil change. . Thats fine the only difference is the thickness and slightly decrease in gas mileage

[EN2_Squirrel]

Originally Posted by TRD_86

Good stuff.
Mine is coming soon for 30k diy oil change. I have few box of mobile synthetic 5w-30. I'm just curious if it can be substitute for 0w-20 w/o major problem ?

Owners manual says 0w-20. Just did the oil this weekend I don't see a problem with 5w-30 I am not sure I would though.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[Myv]

5w-30 is fine for summer time, when it's cold definitely go with 0w-20.

[OICU812]

Unless I missed something it is recommended to wait till 30K "prior" to using synthetic oil in engine on this platform?

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Unless I missed something it is recommended to wait till 30K "prior" to using synthetic oil in engine on this platform?

The car COMES with synthetic oil from the factory.

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

The car COMES with synthetic oil from the factory.

Well silly enough that's what I thought but was seeing in a few threads people talking about breakin with mineral oil and threw me right off the cliff... then the damn dealer told me the car had mineral oil to begin with again off the cliff when I was asking about arranging my oil change coming... LOL But hey I think I trust people here more then the dealers so I'll go with door A bob barker and believe you indeed. Coming up on only my 1st oil change on this car in a few weeks tops.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Well silly enough that's what I thought but was seeing in a few threads people talking about breakin with mineral oil and threw me right off the cliff... then the damn dealer told me the car had mineral oil to begin with again off the cliff when I was asking about arranging my oil change coming... LOL But hey I think I trust people here more then the dealers so I'll go with door A bob barker and believe you indeed. Coming up on only my 1st oil change on this car in a few weeks tops.

Ask 50 people their opinion on oil, and you'll get 51 different answers

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Ask 50 people their opinion on oil, and you'll get 51 different answers

Yes understood again I just am "now" dissapointed my dealer did not express that it is in fact synthetic to begin with and was saying how it would be advised to wait till third oil change to do synthetic, but YET it is synthetic lol... Ah well glad I know now, all good.

[danthedirt]

Slow day at work, so I decided to add some detail.

[laley81]

If I take my car to the dealer or a shop what am I looking at money wise? 30,000 about to hit.

[EastBayCanuck]

probably a few hundred based on prior services. The 60k is the more expensive one due to the sparkplugs being a supposed 2 hr job.

[goke186]

Originally Posted by laley81

If I take my car to the dealer or a shop what am I looking at money wise? 30,000 about to hit.

I was quoted $700 not including taxes for the full 30k service and advised to change my plugs, ended up having the plugs changed at a local shop and saved almost $100 out of the $400 they charge to change the plugs. The plugs were bad and you could tell they aren't handling the heat very well as they were all discolored so I am glad that I had them replaced when I did.