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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#113 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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#114 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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#115 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: Scion FR-S Asphalt
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#116 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: 2013 Raven 86
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Quote:
Last car was a 2011 sti. Sold it because it was a pig. Great car. Pig. Not for me. Had a bbk, various suspension bits, tein monoflex, and every bushing I could get my hands on because I wanted as much feedback from the car as possible. Maybe it was me, or my setup, but I didnt see the value in the teins. |
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#117 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
How do you imagine your ideal handling car to be? What alignment, tires, and tire pressures are you currently running? |
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#118 | |
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Factory everything now. 17x8 rpf1 wheels on the way. Tires will be sticky summer ones, 225 or 235 width depending kn some other factors. |
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#119 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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Did you feel the S2k was understeery or oversteery? What kind of setup did you run on that car? What about the Cayman? |
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#120 |
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You'll also like some of the front control arm bushings that are out there.
- Andy |
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#121 | |
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Senior Member
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Cayman was stock as well. A 30 minute drive had me sold. I was close to buying one, but i preferred picking up something like the 86 and building it myself, hopefully into something better for my tastes. I like TiC and have picked up stuff from them before since as yourself and RCE, they are very involved and add a ton of value to the communities theyre a part of (in my case the sti one). |
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#122 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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Do you have any local shops that are capable of revalving dampers for you? You've got enough of a budget that a high end damper is within reach, and when you get into that range, you can't go wrong with any brand. Support for your damper is most important. |
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#123 | |
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Unfortunatley no local suspension shops I trust that are capable of revalving dampers. |
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#124 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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The reasoning behind my recommendation is that you seem somewhat comfortable with a lively rear, but still prefer a more stable car, rather than one where the rear is always swinging out. 10k/10k will balance the car closer to the Cayman you enjoyed. If the car is over or understeering more than you like, from there, you can fine tune by using either a front or rear sway bar, tire pressures, and alignment changes. Given your budget, these are the ONLY choices I would consider. All three options have some leeway in spring rate, and the dampers can be adjusted to accommodate higher or lower spring rates. One thing to note is that the RCE/Robispec options are twin-tube type dampers, while the SRCs are monotube dampers. Here's some brief reading on Twin-tube vs monotube: http://www.kyb.com/service/monotube.php http://kw-suspension.com/us/kw_damper_basics.php https://www.tein.com/e/special/ni_toryu/index.html |
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#125 |
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Curious cat.
Join Date: May 2012
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@the.big.kahoona
If you're focused on lap times around the Autodrome then I'd focus on choosing your rubber and then choosing a suspension to match. I'm told we can get Pilot Super Sports here, which would seem to be the best rubber we can get here locally. If you're getting 8 inch RPF1s then I'm guessing you're looking at a 225 or 235 width depending on availability. Ideal would be to stuff a 245 in there on some 17x9s but hey. If you're getting double adjustable coilovers then I hope you can get somebody on here to help you set the bump and rebound up properly in order to maximize the effectiveness of them because the local shops know nothing. Learned that the hard way with the KW V3s on my Evo. Spent years fiddling with spring rates and bump/rebound and alignment settings. That, and knowing that I'll never bother to run exotic compound street rubber or semi slicks, is why I felt like going with average single adjustable coilovers this time around. Bad experiences with adjustable pillow ball mounts and our weird (surprise bump!) roads was the main reason I went with rubber top mounts even though camber adjustment then becomes limited (camber bolts and a few tricks will limit you to around -2 degrees of camber up front). I think my RS*Rs work really well as is on track and street given 225 street rubber and a -2f camber limitation. If I were more focused on lower Autodrome lap times I'd want 17x9s with 245 rubber all around and more than -2 degrees camber up front, at which point I think I'd be asking my RS*Rs to work well outside their limits. I also second the bushing recommendations. I've got Avo caster bushings up front, Whiteline rear camber bushings and Whilteline positive traction kit bushings for the rear subframe so far. Big difference & looking for more. Beyond all that I'm sure that the guys on here will be able to recommend the right coilovers and spring rates better than I can.
__________________
2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T
2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ultra For This Useful Post: | whataboutbob (08-23-2013) |
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#126 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
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I settled for 17x8 because Im gonna try to keep this car na. I feel 235s will do the job, but im no expert. Also agreed on the local shops. The sti had every bushing out there. This will be the same. The roads are so good here that compared to other places (speed bumps aside) that a high spring rate is def the way to go. Im more concerned about valving. But as I mentioned before, im.far from being an expert |
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