Regarding "Race" oils.

[ATL BRZ]

I plan on eventually switching to Millers CFS 0W30 NT.

They have proved it to add 6whp after just an oil change.

Here's the write up with dyno charts: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/news/20...Power-Test.asp

Nanotechnology FTW

Maximum power and ultra-low friction
• Qualifying or shorter duration events
• API SM additive pack w/ additional ZDDP


Fully Synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology Formulation. For modern competition engines where maximum power release and ultra low friction are required. Formulated for use in qualifying or shorter duration events where the engine is designed to take advantage of this type of low drag/low friction lubricant. Intended for competition use only not recommended for road use.

APPLICATION: For competition engines where maximum power release is the preferred criteria, especially for qualifying or shorter duration events where the engine has been designed for this type of crankcase lubricant. Intended for racing and track use. Can be used for road cars where a fully synthetic 0w30 is recommended by the original manufacturer.

USER BENEFITS: Fully synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology Oil provides:
• Significantly reduced friction
• Reduced component wear promotes longer engine life
• Reduced heat production
• Increased power output and torque
• Improved reliability
• Improved energy efficiency
• Superior anti-friction and anti-wear characteristics

PERFORMANCE PROFILE:
• Manufactured to far exceed the requirements of API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B4
• Formulated for modern high revving engines used in circuit racing, endurance and for events such as hill climbs and sprints
• Dyno proven by Zytek to add power over other racing synthetics
• Suitable for continuous operation at 260°F with peak temperatures up to 300°F

TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
SAE Viscosity Grade 0w30
Specific Gravity@15°C 0.853
Kinematic Viscosity@100°C 11.1 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity@40°C 62.2 cSt
Viscosity Index 173
HTHS >2.9 cP
Pour Point °C <-40
Flashpoint °C >200
Cold Crank Viscosity@-35°C 6,200 cP Maximum

[bluesubie]

^ You should do some uoa's on it. Here's a good FAQ:
http://performanceracingoils.com/faqs-ezp-2.html

And some more info from one of the co-founder's of Millers N. American distributor in this discussion (user 67King): http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2727400]

Although, I would probably stick with 0W-20 with such a robust oil unless you have bearing clearances that spec a 30 grade. I don't see what you would gain from running a 0W-30 if you have stock internals. You're already getting PAO/Ester base stocks and higher levels of anti-wear additives and friction modifiers than found in typical SN/GF5 oils. Same goes for any race oil.

Suitable for operating at 125°C with peak temperatures up to 150°C. Intended for racing and track use. Can be used for road cars where a fully synthetic 0w20 is recommended by the original manufacturer.

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automot...tor=Motorsport

Rogue Motorsport conducted back to back tests comparing Millers Oils’ CFS 0w20NT Nanodrive oil against the factory supplied oil of the same viscosity grade in the new Toyota GT86 ...



Results

• Changing from factory fill oil to Millers Oils CFS 0w20 NT Nanodrive increased peak power from 157 to 163.1 bhp, an extra 6.1 bhp or 3.8% peak power measured at the hubs
• Maximum torque was also from 127.5 to 131.3 lb/fts, an increase of 3.8 lb/fts or 2.9%

It should be noted that the factory fill oil had been used for 1000 miles and this will have thinned the oil a little, making the results obtained with the Nanodrive oil even more impressive.

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/news/20...Power-Test.asp

-Dennis

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

^ You should do some uoa's on it. Here's a good FAQ:
http://performanceracingoils.com/faqs-ezp-2.html

And some more info from one of the co-founder's of Millers N. American distributor in this discussion (user 67King): http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2727400]

Although, I would probably stick with 0W-20 with such a robust oil unless you have bearing clearances that spec a 30 grade. I don't see what you would gain from running a 0W-30 if you have stock internals. You're already getting PAO/Ester base stocks and higher levels of anti-wear additives and friction modifiers than found in typical SN/GF5 oils. Same goes for any race oil.

Thanks, I'm friends with Harry the co-founder of Performance Racing Oils and he has hooked me up with some of their gear oil and racing brake fluid that's already in my car.

I'm still not sure if I'll go with the 0w20 or 0w30 since the BRZ manual states that it's okay to move up to 0w30 if you're running in harsh conditions.

[Kido1986]

Been considering the change as the BRZ is no longer the only car (well, this will be true as soon as I can get to the DMV) but the price for a single oil change worth of Miller is crazy. (over $100 worth judging from Essex's site)

Where do you intend to buy from @ATL BRZ ?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Kido1986

Been considering the change as the BRZ is no longer the only car (well, this will be true as soon as I can get to the DMV) but the price for a single oil change worth of Miller is crazy. (over $100 worth judging from Essex's site)

Where do you intend to buy from @ATL BRZ ?

http://performanceracingoils.com/eng...c-3_26_24.html

It's not cheap but it's the most durable stuff out there considering the conditions it's made to run in, and dollars per WHP gained it's actually not a bad deal. Think about Perrin's $600 MSRP full intake that nets 4-5 WHP... and this is a much simpler "install" and is proven to net 6 WHP.

Hell, they have F1 teams testing their gear oils because of their benefits.

[Kido1986]

I'd hope you'd come back with a link with like $15 a liter, not another $23 one like I found lol. 5.4 liter oil changes going to suck at $23 each (Plus S/H!) lol

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Kido1986

I'd hope you'd come back with a link with like $15 a liter, not another $23 one like I found lol. 5.4 liter oil changes going to suck at $23 each (Plus S/H!) lol

I feel you, but PRO are doing us all a favor by being the exclusive US retailer for the Millers Oils. It's way better than importing them ourselves. They ship really fast from Knoxville, TN.

[bluesubie]

Every other country laughs at us when we complain about engine oil prices. Some countries pay the equivalent of US$75 or so for 5 quarts of regular Mobil1 or Castrol 0W-20. Meanwhile, many people in this country think it's robbery when 5 quarts of oil jumps from $25 to $30 down at Wally World.

Look at it this way. How much do you pay for one tank of gas and how many miles can you go on it? Oil is the lifeblood of your engine.

Millers Nanodrive has similar base stocks and anti-wear additive package as Motul 300V or Red Line, but the difference is the friction modifier. Check the link in that first bobistheoilguy post:

www.sae.org/mags/aei/12201

-Dennis

[Kido1986]

I don't doubt it's amazing and worth the money. Just sticker shocked when I was thinking ~$10-12 a quart for good stuff

[Kido1986]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I feel you, but PRO are doing us all a favor by being the exclusive US retailer for the Millers Oils. It's way better than importing them ourselves. They ship really fast from Knoxville, TN.

I wonder if there is an exclusivity deal or if they just are the only one taking a chance on a less than huge name with a large price tag?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Kido1986

I wonder if there is an exclusivity deal or if they just are the only one taking a chance on a less than huge name with a large price tag?

They probably want to expand in the U.S. since they have been huge in the UK for many years. Lots of the scoobynet guys use Millers.

Check out this price in the UK, which works out to about $144 including tax:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73730-mi...ngine-oil.aspx

The closest oil that you'll find to this oil in the U.S. in regards to base stocks is Motul 300V and that's around $30 for a 2L can. Millers is supplying a ton of data and I admire them for that. Much better than some companies that do engine oil comparison tests with machines that are used to test gear lubes (and the public buys into those tests).

-Dennis

[OrbitalEllipses]

$70 for Motul Eco-Lite or $100 for Millers...once you're already paying for expensive oil, it's easier to justify a more expensive oil.

[xero404]

I'm sticking with redline 0w-20 since they are down the street from me and is ester based like motul. Just hit past 1k and have order the dimple plug and 4 of the toyo raki filters. Planning to do a drift event next week so it should give me a piece of mind that i'm not having metal shavings flying around the original fill.

[rice_classic]

Well, we are talking about "racing" oil. Not street car oil, not "track day" oil... racing oil.

My dedicated race car has a 9.7:1 CR production engine that only costs $3k to build so do I need Miller oil? No. Would it help, sure but I wouldn't notice it. I will probably miss a shift and blow it up before I notice the difference between a Miller oil and an Amsoil. Sure it's a race car but it's not really a "race" engine. Heck I still use pump gas!

However, if I was building a $10k, 9000rpm 13:1 CR spec race engine then yes, at that price point I would be running Joe Gibbs, Miller or 300V.

It's all about the right seat on the bus.

Just trying to shed some perspective on the subject.