Axle issues / annoyance

[ML]

Originally Posted by redlined600

I'm actually surprised it's that close. I would have expected a higher delta between the two.

Here is what I'm planning on adding to shield the heat.
Design Engineering 010450 Titanium Pipe Shield 6" x 1' Exhaust Heat Shield https://a.co/d/9VmdMNG

That's what I just put on, but I haven't tested it on track yet

[blsfrs]

Is the heat radiating just from the area of the pipe below the axle or, when the car is moving at speed, is hot air flowing along the pipe front the front of the car?

I'm finished for the season but neat year I might experiment with more heat shielding farther upstream.

[DocWalt]

Are you guys using the Cusco axle shield as well?

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Is the heat radiating just from the area of the pipe below the axle or, when the car is moving at speed, is hot air flowing along the pipe front the front of the car?

I'm finished for the season but neat year I might experiment with more heat shielding farther upstream.

it's a bit of all the above, but I'd say the majority of the boot problems is radiation off the exhaust in the general area of the CV. air is already hot going through there, but REALLY hot within a couple inches of the exhaust. I've forgotten my college physics, but I'm betting there's a fair amount of blackbody radiation going on here. i.e. "infrared heat lamp effect".

given the temps I see on trans and diff fluid during a race, I would recommend shielding the top side of the exhaust from the firewall to the back of the diff, just for extra insurance. the drivetrain has a fair amount of mass, and even at the end of a 45 min race, my temps are at 290F trans, 270F diff and still slowly creeping up a few degrees per lap.

[strat61caster]

Black body radiation <<<< convection

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

it's a bit of all the above, but I'd say the majority of the boot problems is radiation off the exhaust in the general area of the CV. air is already hot going through there, but REALLY hot within a couple inches of the exhaust. I've forgotten my college physics, but I'm betting there's a fair amount of blackbody radiation going on here. i.e. "infrared heat lamp effect".

given the temps I see on trans and diff fluid during a race, I would recommend shielding the top side of the exhaust from the firewall to the back of the diff, just for extra insurance. the drivetrain has a fair amount of mass, and even at the end of a 45 min race, my temps are at 290F trans, 270F diff and still slowly creeping up a few degrees per lap.

If it's mostly convection, then reflective tape on the CV cup should help. Somebody should make white boots too.

[Desain2137]

Originally Posted by gt5759

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Don't over think it. Pull them apart, clean all parts completely, scoop grease out with your hand from the tub and coat the sides of the cups, pack a little at the bottom of the cups, coat the balls, cages and the centers. Re-assemble and pack a little more grease on top of the assembled joint. Super simple, been doing this on my circuit race cars for 25 years. I just rebuilt 2 sets for mine for the brz this past weekend, same technique, using cv2 grease and red wd40 straws from amazon under the outer boot clamp's for venting.
If the balls fell out of the inner joint it was because it was assembled incorrectly, overextended to the point it bypassed the wire clip/retainer at the end of the cup or you broke/cracked the cage in the joint - done that too, usually only in high hp cars. Just my opinion's here, not poking fingers.
When disassembling the inners make sure to not damage the wire retainer at the front of the cup and make sure to not damage the c-clip on the end when you take it out and remove the center piece that's splined. When re-assembling, make sure all the balls stay in place in the cage when sliding into the cup, usually grease will hold them place. Then make sure everything rotates freely before sealing up the boots.
Little things to pay attention to - the ball cages are directional and the forged center piece that is splined and slides over the bar, those are directional as well.
The outers come apart like any Rzeppa joint does. I clamp the shaft in the vice, use flat faced bar or punch, hit the center closest to bar to pop it over the wire clip on the end, it's the same style clip that helps retain the cv axle in the differential. It takes a few good hard whacks with a 5lb sledge.

Other little side notes. Make sure the new cv boot clamps you install don't have anything sticking up that can chafe the boots and cause a tear after tightening them down - if the folds in the boot can touch a sharp edge or raised edge, fix it. I also have never had a cv fail from over being over packed, not really sure that's possible but might be wrong?

Hoping this my help a few people

First time rebuilding axles so I lost track of direction of INBD inner race. Manual seems to not point out a direction. Of course fatter end of cage must be inboard. In being thorough I want to attmept to put it back the way it was. Safe to assume wear marks of balls are on the inboard side? Can’t really see a snap ring witness mark sadly.

[Kamber]

@Opie @rice_classic

Any thoughts on the various greases that you guys have tried over the years since the beginning of this thread? What's your go-to option for refresh/repack jobs nowadays? Thanks!

[Opie]

Originally Posted by Kamber

@Opie @rice_classic

Any thoughts on the various greases that you guys have tried over the years since the beginning of this thread? What's your go-to option for refresh/repack jobs nowadays? Thanks!

Redline CV-2 is the one to use.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Kamber

@Opie @rice_classic

Any thoughts on the various greases that you guys have tried over the years since the beginning of this thread? What's your go-to option for refresh/repack jobs nowadays? Thanks!

In order of preference: Amsoil Off-Road NGLI#2 Polymeric, Swepco 101 Moly NLGI#2, and Redline CV-2.

My favorite is to combine it with head shield between exhaust and the inner CV.

[Kamber]

Thanks fellas!

Originally Posted by rice_classic

In order of preference: Amsoil Off-Road NGLI#2 Polymeric, Swepco 101 Moly NLGI#2, and Redline CV-2.

My favorite is to combine it with head shield between exhaust and the inner CV.

This one?

https://86speed.com/cusco-drive-shaf...8bbUVJ1_pMH0_W

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Kamber

Thanks fellas!



This one?

https://86speed.com/cusco-drive-shaf...8bbUVJ1_pMH0_W

If you want to spend $72 on a piece of metal, I won't stop you. But some aluminum sheet, tin snips and some metal bands will also solve it. The benefit of having the heat shield on the exhaust is that it ALSO blocks heat from the differential, not just the axle.
I have posted pictures on this forum of how to do it.

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

But some aluminum sheet, tin snips and some metal bands will also solve it. The benefit of having the heat shield on the exhaust is that it ALSO blocks heat from the differential, not just the axle.
I have posted pictures on this forum of how to do it.

Here's the post to save everyone else a search - https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=134

As I've had liquified grease and axle click myself, this is some good stuff there. I'll fabricate a heat shield from some thin stainless steel sheets I salvaged from old appliances.