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| Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB Problems, issues, recalls, TSBs |
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#15 |
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Reformed
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how did the updated TOB originally fail in 3000 miles is what I would be asking as I haven't seen other threads with a bad TOB ever since they released the TSB...
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#16 | |
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Quote:
Thanks. It was done by the local Toyota dealer. The car has only a few thousand miles on it. So it had the original factory fluid in it. I have no idea if they would have drained any of it for changing the TOB. I assume they wouldn't. But maybe they do so they can upcharge Toyota! |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jay Laifman For This Useful Post: | humfrz (12-26-2018) |
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#17 | |
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I also don't know what TOB was in the car. So I can't tell you if ours came with an updated one from the factory. |
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#18 | |
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Reformed
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too many issues have been created/caused by concern due to "noise" on this platform...you never mentioned whether there was actually a problem experienced by your daughter, just a concern for the "noise" emanating from the clutch.. Could very well be nothing was wrong from the start, the Subie techs were either clueless or wanted to satisfy you guys and went along with a bad TOB and ended up doing a poor job installing it thus causing actual problems.. at this point it sounds like ya guys have it working fine, the car can be clunky especially cold (start ups under 60 degrees here in arizona is noticeably different than starting my car up in the middle of a 120 degree summer day) drive the car when it is fully warmed up, the notchy shifts it will go away. get a louder exhaust or turn up the music ^^ Last edited by HKz; 12-26-2018 at 05:48 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to HKz For This Useful Post: | humfrz (12-26-2018) |
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#19 |
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Noise is one thing. A change in noise is completely different. This was a change in noise. There was definitely a squeal when pressing on the clutch that wasn't there before.
I've been working on my cars for 45 years. This was not a new noise to ignore on a new car. The Subaru guys didn't have anything to do with the work. They just identified the noise when the Toyota guys didn't have a clue. They were never even going to work on the car. The Toyota guys continued to show they don't have a clue when they created all these other problems. FWIW, even though they messed up other things, the noise definitely went away with the new TOB. Also, it's not just a stiff shift into 1st and 2nd. You really need to push very hard to get it to go. So hard, my daughter couldn't even get it to go into gear. Yes, she probably could have pushed harder. But it should NEVER be so hard that anyone thinks it is blocked out. Cold or otherwise. Last edited by Jay Laifman; 12-26-2018 at 07:29 PM. |
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#20 | |
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from reading everyone's stories working with dealerships, they are very hit or miss. the 86 platform is not a common car for toyota or subie dealers to work on, half the time the sales people & even managers don't even know toyota sells a sports car. maybe take it to a local shop that sees a lot of twins to have another look. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to HKz For This Useful Post: | humfrz (12-27-2018) |
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#21 |
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Yeah. It was painfully obvious when we first picked up the car and they had misaligned the shifter gate that these guys had no clue how a manual transmission should work. I guess that's to be expected more and more these days since there are less and less manual transmissions. Just because a guy works on a car doesn't mean he has any idea how to shift.
The local Subaru dealer, who is more accustomed to the engine, can't do warranty work. And I don't think the tranny is Subie - maybe you guys know what it is. The next closest Toyota dealer is a possibility. But, first, I was thinking I'd just try some of the suggestions - like bleeding the clutch, and checking the transmission fluid, possibly replacing it if I had the sense they changed it. I will also look into what clutch adjustments there are. But I don't really want to mess with that if this really is work the dealer should be doing. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jay Laifman For This Useful Post: | humfrz (12-27-2018) |
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#22 |
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I just looked at these instructions that say the clutch pedal travel, as measured at the clutch face, should be 110-115 mm. I measured mine and it is 100 mm.
I got the measurements in the PDF attached by Ultramaroon here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...+adjust&page=2 Is there any reason to believe those measurements are not correct for a 2018 86? Actually, if you look at a post of mine higher up, I mentioned that we thought the clutch pedal stroke seemed shorter when we got it back. While I can't understand why the dealer would bother to change the pedal stroke when changing the TOB, all three of us who drive the car all separately noticed it. I'm wondering if this is the whole thing. I just readjusted it to 110 mm. We'll see how it feels this morning when I drive it. Last edited by Jay Laifman; 12-27-2018 at 10:44 AM. |
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#23 |
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Well, with the longer stroke, it's shifting better and smoother than ever. I'd say it's a little better with the first cold shifts. But not perfect.
What is the consensus on what is the best transmission fluid for these cars? And what is the other cars that run with this transmission? Someone mentioned possibly Miata. I'm going to search and see what I can find. |
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#24 | |
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As far as the transmission fluid, I suggest you stick with the type of oil specified in the maintenance manual. What brand, hell I donno, I don't see why the factory fill stuff isn't just fine. I still suggest you bleed (or have bled) the clutch system, especially since you realized an improvement by adjusting the clutch. humfrz |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (12-27-2018) |
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#25 |
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Yes, I'm going to bleed it.
I've looked around at the countless threads on the correct fluid. Lots of opinions. I could not however find if anyone knew what actually came in the transmission from the factory - as opposed to what my dealer might have on its shelf (if it did actually swap it). In case anyone out there cares, what I've seen seem to be the most highly regarded fluid is from the Ford dealership, XT-M5-QS. The Miata and S2000 guys also seem to like this best too. Also Motul Gear 300, 75W90. But, I'm not trying to start another transmission fluid thread here! Lots of those already on this site. I heard from the dealership. They claim they did not touch the fluid in the transmission or the clutch fluid, and that they did not change anything other than the TOB (like the lever). This does not explain: (1) Why three of us all separately noticed a shorter clutch pedal throw. However, I must admit it does seem odd that the tech would bother to touch that. (2) Why the change in only the TOB has made 1st and 2nd harder when cold - unless the replacement TOB they used was slightly shorter and therefore not pushing the clutch in as far. But there is no way to know that at this point. Maybe the tech bunged up the splines on the input shaft so the clutch plate does not slide as freely, or put on a more sticky lubricant. But I would think that if that is bad enough to cause a problem, that it wouldn't care if the car was cold or not. Last edited by Jay Laifman; 12-27-2018 at 07:13 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jay Laifman For This Useful Post: | humfrz (12-27-2018) |
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#26 |
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Hmm, I'm liking this theory of using the wrong lube on the input shaft. It explains the hard shifting when cold. It wouldn't have been an intentional mistake or even an error by the tech. It could simply be that when Subaru assembled the engine and transmission, the lube it used in there did not match what Toyota has on its shelf for its cars.
Of course, I'm not likely to remove the transmission to find out - or demand the dealership do it. Well, not yet anyway. If I can find that there is some support for this from BRZ experience versus FRS experience after clutch changes, I might just push it. |
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#27 |
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Finally fixed! I have to give credit to the dealership for really staying in it to get it resolved.
A bunch of things did not fix it: different transmission fluid, re-aligned shifter and pins, and even using the correct input shaft lube (they had in fact used the wrong stuff - and much stickier). What solved it? A new transmission. The service manager said that he learned that there are a number of transmissions that have this issue - and most are in Australia. They have the same symptoms: when completely cooled down, like in the morning, they will not go into 1st when the car is rolling at anything above a couple miles an hour, and they will not go into 2nd or need a massive push to go in. We have no idea why it didn't start happening until they took out the old tranny to replace the bad TOB. Maybe just coincidence. Maybe the mechanic dropped it or put too much pressure on something. So now you know. |
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