Installing coilovers in a few hours. Anything I should know?

[Kendallkab]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Double check that your front sway bar isn't making contact with the control arms. This happens on some twins, especially when lowered. The solution is shorter endlinks.

To hell with the torque spec on the endlinks, get them on as tight as you can with a socket or wrench. They like to come loose. If you want to definitively identify this as the source of the noise, drive around with them disconnected.

Double check torque on the two strut bolts - you actually want the torque wrench on the nut, not on the bolt. I've made this mistake and they came loose due to lack of torque, I like to overtorque by ~5 ft-lbs here.

That's the conclusion me and my friend came to.. I have a another friend who has drove over 10k miles on his coilovers for his frs with the popping noise so I'm not worried about it anymore. My plan now is after I get wheels to get adjustable endlinks to hopefully make the noise go away. Thank you guys for all the suggestions and help!

[brzaapi]

Did you throw any loctite on the nuts that attach the camber plates(tophat) to the strut tower assembly of the car( fronts have 3, rear have 2). Most coilovers you only use between 15 to 25 ft/lbs when tightening these nuts down. And, while your car sits on the ground you likely wont notice if they become loose.

And as you hit bumpy pavement, you will hear a metal on metal popping sound. In other words, the top of your coilover is floating and not tight. So, if you didnt apply some loctite to each of the those nuts, they can easily loosen up and cause your exact symptoms. Just a thought, and very easy to check and fix.

And make sure you have the nuts torqued to spec.

Good luck.

[Kendallkab]

Originally Posted by brzaapi

Did you throw any loctite on the nuts that attach the camber plates(tophat) to the strut tower assembly of the car( fronts have 3, rear have 2). Most coilovers you only use between 15 to 25 ft/lbs when tightening these nuts down. And, while your car sits on the ground you likely wont notice if they become loose.

And as you hit bumpy pavement, you will hear a metal on metal popping sound. In other words, the top of your coilover is floating and not tight. So, if you didnt apply some loctite to each of the those nuts, they can easily loosen up and cause your exact symptoms. Just a thought, and very easy to check and fix.

And make sure you have the nuts torqued to spec.

Good luck.

I did not throw any loctite on them and they are torqued that was the first thing I checked.. I'm going to check the top hats before anything.. thanks boss

[Scrappydoo]

Installing coilovers in a few hours. Anything I should know?

Your stock suspension is much better?

[brzaapi]

Originally Posted by Kendallkab

I did not throw any loctite on them and they are torqued that was the first thing I checked.. I'm going to check the top hats before anything.. thanks boss

Good to know. Still smart, and horribly easy, to go back and throw some blue thread locker on those puppies. I always do it now, when installing coilovers. And i have learned that lesson from experience.

[MyGT86Yas]

How did you tighten the top nut? What is a strap tool?

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by MyGT86Yas

How did you tighten the top nut? What is a strap tool?

pass through socket and hex?

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by MyGT86Yas

How did you tighten the top nut? What is a strap tool?

you can buy a strap tool from Sears for like $10. you tighten the top nut with a pass through socket and allen wrench (I would use a set of pliers to hold the allen wrench. use the pliers to hold the short end of the wrench horizontally while you use the long end to insert into the hex on top of the shock)

http://www.sears.com/tools-wrenches-...s/b-1214364373

use the strap wrench to hold the shock shaft (the shiny metal part)

[Clipdat]

Interesting search results there, Sears:

Originally Posted by ryoma

you can buy a strap tool from Sears for like $10. you tighten the top nut with a pass through socket and allen wrench (I would use a set of pliers to hold the allen wrench. use the pliers to hold the short end of the wrench horizontally while you use the long end to insert into the hex on top of the shock)

http://www.sears.com/tools-wrenches-...s/b-1214364373

use the strap wrench to hold the shock shaft (the shiny metal part)

[ryoma]

LOL I didn't even look that far down

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by MyGT86Yas

How did you tighten the top nut? What is a strap tool?

I tried the strap tool and found it unsatisfactory for me. I use a deep offset box wrench like this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oIHBoCQrXw_wcB

Harbor Freight sells an ok-ish set that is deep enough to get into the stock top hat.

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by renfield90

I tried the strap tool and found it unsatisfactory for me. I use a deep offset box wrench like this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oIHBoCQrXw_wcB

Harbor Freight sells an ok-ish set that is deep enough to get into the stock top hat.

have you tried flipping the strap around? I was using the strap tool on the wrong side and kept noticing it slip. after I flipped the rubber (or whatever material it is) strap around, it gripped extremely well. it also helps to have a buddy around to help out

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Interesting search results there, Sears:

Originally Posted by ryoma

LOL I didn't even look that far down

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by MyGT86Yas

How did you tighten the top nut? What is a strap tool?

Pass through socket and wrench like was said. I will add the vice grips or locking pliers of some kind are very helpful so you dont have worry about keeping pressure on multiple ways