Has any FRS/BRZ fallen to LS V8 engine swap?

[cf6mech]

Glad to see another LS in a FRS/BRZ.....this car was made for this swap. Expect to see alot of them.

[cf6mech]

Another swap in Florida

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz2YuyHf1CM"]LS FRS Swap First Start up - YouTube[/ame]

[Fernan Andrade]

Originally Posted by AZFA20

I have TrickFlow heads, FAST 102mm intake manifold, TrickFlow cam, and a lot of other go fast goodies all on the shelf waiting to go in soon.

Really it all depends on your budget and goals as far as recommendations go.

Nice man! What size TB? What is the duration on your cam? I am staying the NA route for now.

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by Fernan Andrade

Nice man! What size TB? What is the duration on your cam? I am staying the NA route for now.

102mm and 291/295 (ad)

[Traktor]

Originally Posted by Suprastar

That's one of the better aspects of the LSx V8s, they don't wear to the point of needing rebuilt, and there's no need to waste money on stroking even the 6.2L, though it is easy if you have mega $$. To date I've owned a half dozen of these engines, all well over 100,000 miles, and all still had the crosshatch, from honing, easily visible in all of every cylinder. Sure, most need valveseals, but that's part of installing the set of new Z06 or Comp 26918 springs for whatever cam you like.
Do the seals, the thing's ready for another 100,000 miles.
The iron-block truck versions are plentiful and therefore cheap, only 65 # heavier than aluminum-block, and 4.8L versions are going for $300, 5.3L are around $500, and 6.0L starts at $800.
'07-up have better heads and beefier rods, but most are 58x rather than 24x (crank reluctor) But don't use pre-'01. In fact, every one of mine have been '01s. The early 4.8s are good to 7500 RPM with appropriate valvetrain upgrades. All are safe past 6500 RPM. Try to get #799 or #243 heads if getting a later 5.3, and the later 6.0L heads may have the rectangular-port (intake) heads that flow better but reduce off-idle torque. That's the way to go for cost-effective NA power.
Combining LSx power with 4-cylinder gearing is a fail, plan on a T56, or a T5-WC from an '88-'92 Camaro V8 if NA 4.8L, ( TBI was 0.63:1 fifth, TPI was o.73:1, but 0.59:1 and HD 0.80:1 both exist) and for differential gearing, if your Toy / Sub diff doesn't offer a ratio around 3.5:1, then plan on an aluminum Ford 8.8" from a mid-'00s Shelby Mustang Cobra. You'll never break that. Ratios range from 2.47:1 well into the 5s. And more different types of traction diffs than anyone could want.
Any pure-stock LSx can happily pull a 1500 RPM cruise at 65 MPH in these cars, and the T56 offers a 0.5:1 sixth to help. You can combine that with either a 2.66:1 or 2.97:1 first, try for a combined first gear in the 9.00:1 - 10.00:1 range, for rear tires around 26" overall. If you're closer to 25", then calculate accordingly. Bigger cams will need more RPM at cruise, even after a good dyno-tune.
That's part of why I like the '01-'06, they use the #0411 PCM that was figured out long ago, so tuning is cheap and easy, but it can do anything and everything you really need.

I am thinking an L33 aluminium block with 4.8 rods/crank/Pistons would be ideal for the FRS? Should produce just the right amount of power at higher revs which would suit the character of the car nicely. Someday!

[DHitHim]

can you retain AC?

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by DHitHim

can you retain AC?

Mine has A/C......

[Michaelg497]

This is the gnarliest 86. I've seen a clip of it drifting but don't remember where. http://s3mag.com/blog/daisuke-miyazakis-toyota-ft86/

[justinsstang]

Learn me to LS swap plox


But no seriously how much does this end up costing? I don't know what LS motor to even pick. Long as its around 400 crank I don't see an issue running any of the LS. Just don't know pricing.

[NOHOME]

Originally Posted by justinsstang

Learn me to LS swap plox


But no seriously how much does this end up costing? I don't know what LS motor to even pick. Long as its around 400 crank I don't see an issue running any of the LS. Just don't know pricing.

How much can you afford?

Bottom line DIY is going to be about $15,000 Send it out to Vorshlag and write the check when they are done is going to be over $50,000

If you are a determined fabricator and scrounger with arms that don't reach all the way to your wallet, you can do it for a lot less. But it is on you to shop and chop.

[wutsaiu]

Originally Posted by justinsstang

Learn me to LS swap plox


But no seriously how much does this end up costing? I don't know what LS motor to even pick. Long as its around 400 crank I don't see an issue running any of the LS. Just don't know pricing.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=39

I spent under $10,000 but then my used LS took a dump. You can save money by doing things yourself but if you cheap out on parts eventually something will fail you.

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by wutsaiu

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=39

I spent under $10,000 but then my used LS took a dump. You can save money by doing things yourself but if you cheap out on parts eventually something will fail you.

Ironically my LS took a dump too

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by wutsaiu

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=39

I spent under $10,000 but then my used LS took a dump. You can save money by doing things yourself but if you cheap out on parts eventually something will fail you.

True, but theoretically, if you had decided to do a full rebuild before installing the motor, your cost wouldn't have increased too terribly much. Your build is still an excellent demonstration of limiting cost.

...And proof that it can be done for less money than the naysayers are proclaiming.

[NP86GT]

Has anybody done one of these in Australia?