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#15 | |
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Oh ya...and the cooling system is sealed so there should not be any air in there.
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#16 | |
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#17 |
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I always wondered why there usually isn't. Also would it be so hard/expensive to make them with a switch?
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#18 | |
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I thought about putting a 10A fuse in the cable somewhere. Its a 400W heater good for 115V.
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#19 |
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Fixed early, apparently they just drained the coolant system and reset the codes. Car seems fine now. Not electrical apparently. Hmm.
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#20 |
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says they found diluted coolant and an air lock. Humm...from their previous work on your car?
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#21 | |
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But yeah definitely im assuming it was them because they really took their time tearing it up to get access to the block heater. Also on the block heater work order they said they had to replace the coolant. Meh. Dealer incompetence i guess. Warranty covered, free towing and i was out of a car less than 48 hours. Glad its over |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Joeystomato For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (01-18-2015) |
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#22 |
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Nahhhh adding different type (not necessarily means wrong) would not dilute the system. They would have to drain coolant to install block heater though as it is inserted into cooling system.
They screwed something up that they aren't says since there is no way your temp gauge should have been reading hot all the time especially after 7 hours of sitting in the winter!
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#23 | |
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unless that was one hell of a block heater they installed! |
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