DIY - Easy clutch grab adjustment (~10 mins) - Page 37 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

robot · 08-06-2014, 02:12 PM

So, I did this and was careful about following all the warnings about having enough play. The car has 7700 miles on it. I also have rear diff reenforecement bushings. When the car is fully warmed up and i accelerate (sometimes more up hill) I get this metalic sound from the rear of the car as the drivetrain flexes.

It is like a squeak, not a grind, not a shudder (I know what a shuddering clutch feels like). There is no bump, no front end noise. Could this be a contributor, or am I just experiencing increased NVH from the bushings?

xxBrun0xx · 08-06-2014, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robot

So, I did this and was careful about following all the warnings about having enough play. The car has 7700 miles on it. I also have rear diff reenforecement bushings. When the car is fully warmed up and i accelerate (sometimes more up hill) I get this metalic sound from the rear of the car as the drivetrain flexes.

It is like a squeak, not a grind, not a shudder (I know what a shuddering clutch feels like). There is no bump, no front end noise. Could this be a contributor, or am I just experiencing increased NVH from the bushings?

Increase the clutch to the crazy high stock height and see if it makes any difference. If not, it's unrelated to this!

Draco_PR23 · 08-09-2014, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

I did the clutch adjustment a month ago and loved the new engagement point. I just replaced my clutch with an Exedy Stage 1 and now it feels like the grab point is too low. Has anyone else had this experience? I think I'll need to readjust it outwards

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

I had to back the adjustment off a bit and it's good again. After swapping out clutches, it moved the bite point down farther than stock

Today I installed my Exedy Stage 2 and I am experience the same.
Did you do the adjustment? I might try it tomorrow

protpibe · 08-09-2014, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draco_PR23

Today I installed my Exedy Stage 2 and I am experience the same.
Did you do the adjustment? I might try it tomorrow

Yeah, I had to back the adjustment off to where it was from the factory. The upgraded Exedy clutch with no grab adjustment and removal of the helper spring feels fantastic. It's just the right weight and it bites at just the right distance off the floor. HIGHLY recommended with the Exedy

Draco_PR23 · 08-09-2014, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

Yeah, I had to back the adjustment off to where it was from the factory. The upgraded Exedy clutch with no grab adjustment and removal of the helper spring feels fantastic. It's just the right weight and it bites at just the right distance off the floor. HIGHLY recommended with the Exedy

I will try to back off the adjustment ....
The clutch feels great and and I recommend it also

JDis3 · 08-11-2014, 11:44 PM

Can someone clarify exactly how the sensor is supposed to be after adjustment. When I made the adjustment the threading from the sensor did more adjusting of the height than the spinning rod. Also if the clutch is not supposed to be pressing on the threading much, I have no Idea how to get the threading to lock.

JDis3 · 08-12-2014, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PMPB

I can't take a picture right now, because I don't have my car. So I made a small paint stick drawing to illustrate.

Can we clarify if there should be a little nib of the sensor showing or if its supposed to have the threading pushed up against the clutch pad. is the picture above correct

benlaz88 · 08-12-2014, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDis3

Can someone clarify exactly how the sensor is supposed to be after adjustment. When I made the adjustment the threading from the sensor did more adjusting of the height than the spinning rod. Also if the clutch is not supposed to be pressing on the threading much, I have no Idea how to get the threading to lock.

Here are website for the written portion with pictures on how to adjust the clutch. http://howtune.com/articles/68-adjus...n-a-scion-fr-s
Hope this will help

ck-GT86 · 08-12-2014, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDis3

Can we clarify if there should be a little nib of the sensor showing or if its supposed to have the threading pushed up against the clutch pad.

Little nib is what you want. the pedal shouldn't rest on the switch, this may cause the clutch to not fully disengage

.ck

JDis3 · 08-12-2014, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ck-GT86

Little nib is what you want. the pedal shouldn't rest on the switch, this may cause the clutch to not fully disengage

.ck

But the pedal is ok to rest on the threading around the switch? it would be great if someone could take a picture of what their threading looks like on the clutch master rod and their sensor.

ck-GT86 · 08-12-2014, 02:53 PM

No, don't let it rest on the threads. I'll grab a pic later today

.ck

codesplice · 08-12-2014, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDis3

But the pedal is ok to rest on the threading around the switch? it would be great if someone could take a picture of what their threading looks like on the clutch master rod and their sensor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ck-GT86

No, don't let it rest on the threads. I'll grab a pic later today

.ck

For whatever it's worth, I did find this post which includes a nice MSPaint illustration of how the switch should be.

JDis3 · 08-12-2014, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codesplice

For whatever it's worth, I did find this post which includes a nice MSPaint illustration of how the switch should be.

yeah i reposted it a few posts above. to see if thats the correct position for the sensor.

codesplice · 08-12-2014, 03:34 PM

Doh! You did, my bad.

But yes, it is correct. There should just be a tiny bit of the white plastic switch sticking up beyond the metal threads. You don't want the pedal arm to actually touch those threads, just the plastic bit. In general, if you can still lift the clutch with your hand slightly above where it rests you're probably good.

08-06-2014, 02:12 PM	#505
robot There are now 2 carseats! Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: 2013 DGM BRZ Location: The Emerald City Posts: 434 Thanks: 21 Thanked 166 Times in 75 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	So, I did this and was careful about following all the warnings about having enough play. The car has 7700 miles on it. I also have rear diff reenforecement bushings. When the car is fully warmed up and i accelerate (sometimes more up hill) I get this metalic sound from the rear of the car as the drivetrain flexes. It is like a squeak, not a grind, not a shudder (I know what a shuddering clutch feels like). There is no bump, no front end noise. Could this be a contributor, or am I just experiencing increased NVH from the bushings? __________________ I'm selling my car my NEW NEW custom gauge project...it replaces the clock [play external video on your headunit (gauges on your stereo)...hidden menus DIY...removing your headunit without scratching everything up DIY

08-11-2014, 11:44 PM	#510
JDis3 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Drives: is300 / Fr-s Location: Northern California Posts: 115 Thanks: 18 Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Can someone clarify exactly how the sensor is supposed to be after adjustment. When I made the adjustment the threading from the sensor did more adjusting of the height than the spinning rod. Also if the clutch is not supposed to be pressing on the threading much, I have no Idea how to get the threading to lock. __________________ Daily Driver:2002 Lexus is300 Graphite Gray Pearl Garage Queen:2014 Monogram Fr-s Asphalt 6MT my.is: iJAYDM Clublexus: JDis3 IG:@j0nathandiaz Last edited by JDis3; 08-12-2014 at 01:36 AM.

08-12-2014, 02:53 PM	#515
ck-GT86 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Drives: '13 Raven FR-S, MT Location: NorCal Posts: 884 Thanks: 788 Thanked 516 Times in 286 Posts Mentioned: 54 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	No, don't let it rest on the threads. I'll grab a pic later today .ck __________________ \|\| My Build Thread \|\|

08-12-2014, 03:34 PM	#518
codesplice Elite Recognized Geek Join Date: Mar 2014 Drives: 2014 DGM BRZ Limited Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 183 Thanks: 192 Thanked 67 Times in 48 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Doh! You did, my bad. But yes, it is correct. There should just be a tiny bit of the white plastic switch sticking up beyond the metal threads. You don't want the pedal arm to actually touch those threads, just the plastic bit. In general, if you can still lift the clutch with your hand slightly above where it rests you're probably good. __________________ This post is a work of fiction. Names, characters, places, and incidents either are the product of the poster's imagination or are used fictitiously, and any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, business establishments, events, or locales is entirely coincidental. G+

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