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#1 |
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Anybody have a rust module on their car? Been thinking of getting one, but have no clue where to start looking really when it comes to brands and such.
I could get one through work, but the thing is it comes with all this paint protections and interior protection stuff, and I really don't need that. Thanks
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Life's too short to drive a boring car
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i'm sorry, what?
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the future of humanity
it is doomed
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#3 |
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Life's too short to drive a boring car
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#4 |
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MMTT
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Those modules are based on a technology to protect metal objects from corrosion by essentially using an electric circuit to sacrifice another metal object. (They are used effectively for things like ship hulls and metal containers)
The problem is your car is not a continuous solid piece of metal, so these devices usually don't live up to the promised protection. |
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#5 |
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So does it work? Well.. yes.
The same way that you could say that you could use a pickle as a lamp [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98p-9Ah2tF0"]Pickle Light Bulb! - YouTube[/ame] But does it really work well enough to be worth the trouble? No. |
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Better off just getting it undersprayed and regular rust protection.
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When you get one of those modules they connect a wire between major components to make sure they are in circuit such as the hood (our is aluminum, not vulnerable to corrosion). It's somewhat iffy how effective it works and probably why it's not that popular.
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#8 | |
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Quote:
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#9 | |
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Quote:
I do believe the modules work, it's just a question whether they are as effective as using rust protection spray in the long term. They operate on the principal of the galvanic effect, whereby electrons are supplied to the metal so as not to sacrifice the electrons in the iron, thus avoiding iron oxidation. Galvanizing steel works similarly, except the electrons are supplied in the slow degradation of zinc rather than through an electronic trickle. Iron loses electrons to oxygen in the process of oxidation, resulting in iron oxide (rust). I deal with a galvanic treated product in my business.
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#10 | |
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Quote:
Let's be real here. Subarus aren't the best cars when it comes to staying rust free.
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You're better off getting it undercoated by Krown. The module is worthless
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#12 |
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I GOT MY FRS OIL SPRAYED AS I THOUGHT THE COST OF THE MODULE WAS TOO HIGH. mY BROTHER AND I BOUGHT 2 2004 BUICKS NEW. I GOT MY 2004 BUICK SPRAYED AT NEW AND ITS STILL RUST FREE. MY BROTHER DIDNT AND HIS IS REALLY RUSTY..
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#13 |
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MOAR CAPS
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@HeadBanger - DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON IT!
My old friend is a retired NRC scientist who worked on this technology for anti-corrosion in ships. He told me it works on ships and bridges immersed in a salt-water environment, but salt-water splashed on a car does not allow it to create the proper current to negate the electrical process of salt and ferrous metals. You are better off with Krown or some other applied rust-protection. My FRS will never see snow/salt while I own it so I did nothing to it for extra rust protection. My 92 Camry, 05 Corolla and now 13 Yaris have all had dealer applied (3rd party actually apply it) corrosion protection. The Camry only had rust on the driver's side rear door and that was my fault for not cleaning out the drain holes in the bottom of the door. No other rust and it was 13 yrs old, saw every winter and had 320,000km on it when I sold it. The Corolla was totaled in 12 but it had zero rust showing anywhere. I just can't stand the mess all of these applied coatings/treatments leave behind - either the drippy stuff on the lane-ways or the sticky stuff coating everything under the hood No way was I doing it to my FR-S!I told off my dealer for trying to foist that snake-oil electronic rust protection crap on me and their other unsuspecting customers. $500 cash grab and they know it is bunko ![]() Spend that $500 on a OFT or suspension upgrades or something useful instead
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